Jack Yan previews Tanya Carlson’s autumn–winter 2004 collection, which appears on the catwalk for the first time at the Vodafone ID Dunedin Fashion Show this weekend

ANYA CARLSON is one of Dunedin, New Zealand’s most recognized names. She made the decision to not show last year at L’Oréal New Zealand Fashion Week, preferring to concen­trate on her business without the added stress of a major catwalk show.
   Consequently, both the press and the public alike will get their first glimpse of Carlson’s autumn–winter 2004 range at Vodafone ID Dunedin Fashion Weekend.
   The collection, entitled ‘Wall­flower’, is unashamedly nostalgic, celebrating the art of dress-up. It additionally celebrates the anticipa­tion of the event itself—so if this is Carlson’s prelude, then next season could be something even more special.
   A glimpse at the collection shows that Carlson has featured suiting, sports­wear and her signature silk organza and Chantilly lace slips. Suiting the autumn–winter trend, she has a fine wool hoodie, bomber jacket and a duffle coat. Inspiration comes from a range of eras, from the 1930s to the 1960s, the latter exem­plified by a car coat.
   Her colour palette celebrates nature: her press release states, ‘ocean, shell, sea foam, oil and rain through to caper, tamarillo, flame, kelp, lemongrass, pearl and ember.’
   The names of the garments—the Depression dress, for instance—show a brooding, moodier winter from Carlson. A plaid kilt is her ‘Ode to Dunedin’, a tribute to Carlson’s home town.
   It’s a fitting name. Carlson told Lucire that she grew up in Dunedin and as we lunched, she was recog­nized by passers-by.
   She studied economics and art at school and admits that she was ‘not multi-disciplined.’ By 13 or 14, she had decided on her fashion career. Her concern, however, was that a designer ‘can’t be fantastically on form al the time. It’s like asking a chef to prepare 65 new pieces each season.’
   Another surprise admission from one of the country’s most successful designers followed: she waits for inspiration and believes that she is ‘undisciplined’, though not to the point of being a procrastinator.
   But this season looks to be a winner for Carlson—again. The construction of the pieces remains very classical, with some trademark twists. Most impor­tantly, they tap into a cooler winter, one that seems particularly on the pulse of the Zeit­geist as an uncertain post-Oscars’ mood hits New Zealand. The public will be able to judge for itself at Vodafone ID Dunedin Fashion Week­end as the designs hit the catwalk on Saturday, March 13. •

Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.

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TOP: Matisse skirt. CENTRE LEFT: Chantilly dress. CENTRE RIGHT: Depression dress. ABOVE: Sailor jersey.