In this final part of our Moda Barcelona coverage, Jack Yan looks at two extremes: the commercialism of Toypes and the avant-garde styles of the young designers. Plus Cate Blanchett makes an appearance

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOMA GARCÍA I GISBERT

Mireia Bisbe
Mireia Bisbe was inspired by the nightlife of the 1920s, when femininity got its first boost in the twentieth century. Rather than charleston dresses, Bisbe sent down some of the most glamorous gowns and dresses of the Pasarela Gaudí collections. This wasn’t about the everyday Spanish woman of the ’20s: this was a celebration of, well, celebrity.
   Extravagant and colourful jewellery and extravagant patterns—either re-created as prints, wovens or a dramatic, jewelled vest—showed that this was no 1920s re-creation, but something far more distinctive and suited to the 2000s.
   Bisbe also had short dresses, lace and tulle, signalling seduction—and these proved far sexier than earlier designers who showed more flesh. She instead communicated sensuality and sexuality through design and concealment.
   While some colours were fairly predictable—black and champagne—they were offset with plenty of outfits that came out in bright rose and turquoise shades.
   In all, Bisbe maintained her elegant and glamorous edge—it is not hard to see how she built up 600 sales’ outlets globally, stretching from Mexico through Ireland and Great Britain through to the Middle East.

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Bisbe communicated sensuality and sexuality through design and concealment

ABOVE: Mireia Bisbe. LEFT: Mar Rodriguez.