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Rui Vasco/Moda Lisboa


Lucire May 2004

Lucire autumn-winter 2004

Portugal’s finest showcased at Moda Lisboa, mixing seasons and seeking varied inspirations from a mere conversation to twentieth-century icons, reports Tiago E. Santo

PHOTOGRAPHED BY RUI VASCO/MODA LISBOA

 

ABOVE: Alves–Gonçalves, a favourite of the author, injected pink detail into its lined coat.

Download this article as laid out in the Catwalk section of Lucire May 2004: click here for download page

Initial capHILE fashion adrenalin ran wild backstage with last-minute preparations, international press waited long hours, pushing and shoving to defend their treasured territory along the catwalk.
   Moda Lisboa is no exception to this fashion chaos. From March 25 to 28, Lisboa lets some of its best designers loose on the catwalk, to give the world a glimpse of what to expect from the Portuguese for autumn–winter 2004–5. As the 22nd edition of Moda Lisboa came to an end, an enthusiastic press commented on new designers, materials and on the potential of exporting.
   In order to understand what exactly distinguished the Portuguese fashion geniuses from other European designers, I decided to mingle a bit with influential buyers, other foreign press and VIP guests. After various chats and just as I suspected, details are what the Portuguese are most credited for, besides good textures, materials, design and finishing.
   As for runway trends, one should aim for a variety, going from chic sportswear to ripped and stretched textiles, and layers under long faux fur coats.
   Fashion designers have used colour abundantly, contrasting the forecast cold and rainy weather. Black and anthracite are also big players but it seems to be less of a must.
   Last but not least, miniskirts and short dresses! Who ever thought these items could extend more than a year as a fashion "must-wear"?
   We saw fewer designers knowing how to differentiate a winter from a summer. The received wisdom is that people are prepared to wear whatever, whenever!

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As for runway trends, one should aim for a variety, going from chic sportswear to ripped and stretched textiles, and layers under long faux fur coats

 

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