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Lucire autumn-winter 2004

Phillip D. Johnson reviews the fall–winter 2004–5 collections from Maurice Malone, Multi by Bree, Bahar Korcan, Raika D., Gustavo Arango, Chaiken and Cynthia Steffe

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GORSKI/WWW.CHERYLGORSKI.COM AND RICHARD SPIEGEL

 

Maurice Malone

Initial capaurice Malone has spent nearly 20 years in the fashion and entertainment business and I can honestly say that I have grown to respect his talent with each passing season. Since the age of 18, when his career goals centred around being a filmmaker and special effects’ artist in Hollywood, Mr Malone has almost covered the full spectrum of design starting with his first collection a line of clothing inspired by the emerging hip-hop music scene. In 1995, after closing down his first company, he created the MOJEANS line, a men’s line featuring beautifully crafted men’s suits, and was subsequently nominated for the CFDA’s Perry Ellis Menswear Designer of the Year Award. Since last year, Mr Malone has steered his company and talents in a new and exciting direction: upscale and elegant separates for men and women, with a healthy dose of stylized denim wear thrown in for good measure. The line, particularly the womenswear collection, has a sexy, playful, sophisticated æsthetic that works well with his stated plan to ‘create a monster women’s line with a tailored men’s influence while smashing together the atoms of men’s sportswear and tailored looks to come up with a creature that would almost make you forget that [he] did jeans.’
   The new ‘Maurice Malone’ line is everything he says it is and more, even the new higher price. Although he has evolved beyond jeans, he did show a few pieces in his signature antique wash treatment. I enjoyed the ’60s–modern take-off of his black cashmere three-quarter-length coat over a blue and white jacquard pattern button down shirt (and burnt orange silk tie). His combo navy button-down shirt paired with a fitted flat front pant is definitely one for those gym bunnies out; and his iridescent brown wool pinstripe mid-length coat was a true classic in the making. Mr Malone handily executed his menswear designs with a sure hand, and all indications are there that, given time and space, he will display an equal confidence with his womenswear pieces.
   First out of the gate for the women were his blue single-breasted wool blazer paired with a matching flat front pencil pant. I thought his tailored grey pinstripe wool pleated dress was rather flirty, and his silver jersey tube skirt (paired with a white–grey button-down collared shirt) was adventurous. He showed some leg with his wool diamond-patterned, silver square skirt; and found his black satin stretch shirt dress and fitted black shadow tuxedo jacket (with matching pant with satin stripe) to be rather charming.
   Of course, he’s on a learning curve here, so not everything was an immediate success, per se. While I thought his idea of using the tuxedo shirt (in black and white cotton) as a skirt—with all that it entails (sleeves, front ruffles, collars)—was an inspired way of differentiating himself from the rest of the pack, others thought differently. (Hey, it’s the fashion biz where everyone has an opinion that matters above all others.) With these pieces, he demonstrated that he wasn’t afraid of trying something new to stretch himself creatively. This collection, after everything have been said and done, was a strong one; and Mr Malone is poised to come back with even stronger and more creative designs for his spring 2005 show in September.
   Pieces from the line are now on sale at Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, NY; Beverly Hills, Calif., Bal Harbor, Fla.), Macy’s (New York, NY), Atrium (New York, NY), Fred Segal (Santa Monica, Calif.), and other fine stores.

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The line has a sexy, playful, sophisticated æsthetic that works with his plan to ‘create a monster women’s line with a tailored men’s influence while smashing together the atoms of men’s sportswear and tailored looks to make you forget that [he] did jeans’


Photographer's credit
Photographer's credit

 

Media partner: San Francisco Fashion Week
Media partner

 

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