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FashionLucire fall-winter 2004

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   What does the future hold for the Halston brand under the stealth-like leadership of Mr Bayou? ‘I see the future of Halston as a lifestyle brand with products for men, women, children, and even home. … Over the next two years, the plan is to expand into sportswear with prices slated to be in the mid- to high-end range. That's important because I believe style shouldn't have to cost a lot of money.’
   The other big news coming from the company is the creation and launch of a new denim line. ‘Jeans are an easy way to reach the most people effectively. I'm starting the denim line in women's wear [first] and then will be edging into men's. For fall, there will be jeans, tops, sweaters and cords. It will be a full-fledged line next year.’

 
Carmen Marc Valvo

THERE IS SUCH A THING as damning a person with faint praise, and I am about to do that to designer Carmen Marc Valvo. Last February, he had the grave misfortune of being scheduled right after Ralph Rucci on the show schedule at Bryant Park. That was a blow he never saw coming. The occasion of Mr Rucci's collection was such a palate-clearing tsunami; he erased most everyone else's presentations from the minds of the people present at the tents that day.
   Secondly, Mr Valvo's collection, as beautiful as it was, lacked a certain something, that oomph that normally carried him over the top. That he could have somewhat prevented all on his own. This was a case of repetition breeding boredom and contempt. He showed too many versions of the same pieces, diluting his effect on the audience.
   In all honesty, I was not taken with most of the collection because I have seen it before from Mr Valvo. What kept me interested was his expert use of colour. I was jolted alive (and no, I wasn't sleeping!) with the vividness of his colour palette and the varied ways he made it work for him. I liked his silk (pick a fabric: satin, sequinned, silk georgette, chiffon beaded, crêpe satin) cocktail dresses and gowns in amethyst (deep blue), rose, espresso brown, ruby red, cream, and camel. Coming, such as it was from that sea of black, these pieces spoke to me (and no, I am not going crazy either). They were all quite beautiful, especially his gowns with basket weave and twisted front detailing.
   What ultimately saved this collection from abject anonymity was the fact that he is a master at his craft. The creativity he lacked in his designs were made up in his beautiful sandals, the accompanying accessories (love those Russian sable opera gloves, fox stoles, sable mufflers and wraps), and the jewellery courtesy of Louis Glick, Oscar Heyman and Zingale Jewellers. The beauty of these presentations is that, if you are able to survive a bad or indifferent season, you live to fight another day. Come September, Mr Valvo will be back; and I will be there to cheer him on.

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The beauty is that if you are able to survive a bad or indifferent season, you live to fight another day. Come September, Mr Valvo will be back; and I will be there to cheer him on

 

Media partner: San Francisco Fashion Week
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Next page
Lucire: fashion magazine homeLucire Fashion FeaturesLucire Living and Beauty Lucire Volante: travel, accommodation guide Lucire fashion news, bulletins and events Fashion shopping guide and directory
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