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Lucire fall-winter 2004

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Narciso Rodriguez

ON HIS WEB SITE, Narciso Rodriguez wrote the following about himself: ‘As a child, I was fascinated by cutting, painting, drawing and construction. I think that is where my love of minimal architecture started and it is [said] architecture that continues to inspire me today.’ His approach to designing a garment is ‘much the same way an architect approaches designing a building, with seaming for structure to create interesting fit lines and shape, [and by designing] primarily in black and white as I find it to be the boldest graphic way to present a sharp clean silhouette.’
   Mr Rodriguez's star has steadily risen to new heights of critical acclaim with each new season, not only because he has an insanely devoted clientèle and friends in the fashion media to spread the word on their editorial pages, but most importantly, he has created a whole new vocabulary from which one can view his designs. His signature æsthetic is one that calls for jackets and coats that are meticulously and sparely constructed pieces that are shaped and sewn with a keen sense of detail and for fall 2004, a new awareness of softness in beauty.
   I was very much taken with his body-hugging coats, pencil skirts, and jackets (most resembling those of the luxurious motor-cross variety), which, in turn, was accentuated by both slender contrast piping and panel blocks of colour in strategically placed areas. For evening, he introduced new looks (for him) that had the audience visibly swooning.
   By adding cascading lace ruffles and defining ribbon detailing to his gowns and cocktail dresses, he demonstrated that he is not tied to the spare, minimalist look. Stand-out pieces here include all the satin skirt gowns (in such pretty colours, even) that came late in the presentation and his beautiful ice-blue satin dress.

 
Pamella Roland

PAMELLA DEVOS, the head designer and creative director of the Pamella Roland line, envisioned for fall, a look of ‘modern luxe … that allows women to dress like individuals and to combine looks in their own unique way.’ The woman she dresses, she explained, ’is confident and independent … but not afraid to show her romantic, feminine side. She is an elegant fashion sophisticate with a taste for luxury.’
   Luckily for her customers, Ms DeVos, who's the sole designer of the line now that Ron Leal has moved on to pursue other opportunities, set her clothes at prices that are attainable and is, in a real sense, designing for women like her.
   Her beautifully cut daytime suits, coats and structured jackets are made for the office and other professional endeavours, but she jazz them up a tad by adding colourful pink linings and other embellishments such as fur trims and other design accents.

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ABOVE: Narciso Rodriguez. BELOW: Pamella Roland.

 

Media partner: San Francisco Fashion Week
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