Tocca manages to create beauty without going into “pretty-pretty” excess. Phillip D. Johnson looks at three of its collections and previews spring 2005

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY ROB CALDWELL/TOCCA

NOWN FOR DESIGNS that are decidedly youthful, feminine, witty, urban and modern, the design house, Tocca, has consistently combined the best of romantically pretty dressing with an air of exoticism, resulting in collections that are filled with beautifully timeless classic designs women all over have embraced—and collected for many years.
   Head designer Ellis Krueger and the design team at Tocca firmly believes that women tend to seek out and hold on to what they see as the ultimate coat, the coolest handbag, the best shoe, the best smelling body cream; and over time, Tocca has become the one-stop destination for many women who actively seeks out such items. It is no wonder then, that the fall 2004 collection was so widely praised and well-received by store buyers and fashion critics alike. In the surest terms possible, Mr Krueger fully embraces the trend towards "pretty pretty" dressing without falling victims to its excesses.
   Inspired by the psychedelic movement of the late 1960s and 1970s, Mr Krueger brought back the essence of that time again without wallowing in its excesses or by interpreting the era too literally in his designs. He used the vibrantly bold colour palette of "pyschedelica"—rich russets, sunshine yellow, blossom pinks, the striking paisleys and various shades of brown—to accent the signature Tocca touches we have grown to expect from the line (floral motifs that are either hand-appliquéd, printed, beaded, or in simple stitching) on fabrics that are plush and luxurious to the touch. He also introduced several new versions of the signature Tocca coat that complemented the plethora of flirty skirts, tops, jackets and knitwear pieces that completed the collection. Dresses are sometimes cut on the biases, giving them that romantic gypsy flair. The coats in the collection has the softness and ease of wear one would expect from a favourite sweater; and the knitwear pieces—particularly the shrunken sweaters and sleeveless tops—are truly versatile designs that goes well with everything in the collection and anything you may already own at home.
   The holiday 2004 collection, shown in mid-June, is titled Celebration. The company is entering its 10th year in business, and as such, this collection brings together all the elements that have made the line such an enormous success. More than just a regurgitation of what came before (and is presently stored in the company's archives), this collection has all the feminine whimsy and sensual luxury the line is known for, and a lot more. The familiar embroidery have been re-interpreted in new ways (such as a three-dimensional wool gauze flower that is decorated with beads), and the colour palette has been expanded to include the unusual mix of Parma violet, emerald, jet and diamond tones.
   The resort 2004 collection ably mixes the best of spring and winter with a colour palette that encompasses "kiss" red, and a select smattering of black-and-white pieces, as well as pieces that evokes special getaway vacation spots such as Mexico (hand-embroidered sequin detailing), Provençal (border prints on canvas) and Scandinavia in the ’70s (large scale floral motifs on cotton voile).
   The spring 2005 preview, Tocca Bambini, is, at its essence, a collection that celebrates ‘pretty little maids all in a row’. Beautiful embroideries and lace are used in unexpected places and as unexpected trim detailing. The sweetness of Peter Pan collars are tempered by the innate grown-up sensuality of the designs. The colour palette here, again, is pure Tocca: bright, vibrant violet, apple green, lollypop pink, seductive browns, lazuli blue and light creams. The signature "daisy" motif here is made from embroidered lace that is then added to trench coats, skirts and jeans made from luxuriously soft cotton. •

Coming soon: Tocca’s beauty lights up the world

Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor of Lucire.