The last collection of the night, Maria Pascual’s Chenpascual, got me at ‘Hello.’ I thought it was the most vibrant collection of the evening. It had a stated purpose that needed no explanation; and from beginning to end, my eyes were riveted to the runway as not to miss a single thing. She is known for her use of original fabric techniques in creating designs that are often androgynous and dramatically dark in their scope and context. To put it all in focus, Ms Pascual designs clothing that has its foundation in the Goth genre but manages to inject a refreshing sense of romanticism that serves to make them more special and noteworthy.
   From her womenswear designs, I particularly like her warped take on the traditional prom and cocktail dresses (in black, of course) we are so familiar with in our travels. Deconstructed beyond the point of meaningless prettiness, Ms Pascual gives life to pieces that would be otherwise underwhelming and overlooked. For the men, here’s where her sophisticated take on the grunge, disaffected youth movement has the best effect. She showed skin-tight rock star pants, graphic print T-shirts, and fitted jackets in leather and over-dyed jersey fabrics, and it was all so appropriate and genuinely original. Ms Pascual has a concept Chenpascual store in London, off Carnaby Street, where she plans to sell the casual range of sweat-tops and jerseys from the collection.

 
Gen Art Styles 2004 International Design Competition

OVER 1,500 fashion industry insiders and guests flocked to Manhattan’s Hammerstein Ballroom on May 18 to view the designs of the 30 finalists of the Styles 2004 International Design Competition. The finalists, who hailed from Canada, England and the United States, competed in five categories for $35,000 in prize money; with the designs in each category judged by a panel of fashion industry professionals including Alek Wek (model and handbag designer), Kimora Lee Simmons (designer, Baby Phat), Shoshanna Gruss (designer, Shoshanna), Richard Lambertson and John Truex (handbag, shoe and accessory designers, Lambertson Truex), Patricia Field (stylist and costume designer for movies and television), Kal Ruttenstein (Fashion Director, Bloomingdale’s) and Julie Gilhart (Fashion Director, Barney’s).
   I liked Catherine Leung’s black layered cocktail dress and the precise cut of Michael Kaye’s red halter column gown. I was also intrigued by MyPhuong Chung’s crisp white gown with vibrant red piping. Ultimately, the Gen Art Design Vision Award for Eveningwear was given to Danielle Martin and Pao Lim of the Longuevil, Québec-based design team, Martin Lim. The designs that won them the $5,000 prize came from their Martin Lim couture line, inspired by modern dance, Greta Garbo and the "suprematism" art movement.

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TOP ROW: Chenpascual. SECOND ROW: Michael Kaye. THIRD ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: MyPhuong Chung; Martin Lim of Québec. ABOVE: Nottingham-based Ruth Wilson, winner of the Target Design Vision Award for Women’s Ready to Wear.