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Lucire LivingLucire Living 2004

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Media sponsor: San Francisco Fashion Week
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Patti Hansen

   Bravo’s Queer Eye for the Straight Guy’s Carson Kressley was immaculately turned out in Louis Vuitton with black velvet evening slippers. He was the very essence of class and good taste. His fellow cast member, Thom Filicia was a bit more casual in his no-tie, dining-on-the-beach attire, but it works for him, so no fashion violation tickets were issued to him. Vogue’s André Léon Talley and Hamish Bowles stood out: both were the peacocks of the walk that night. Mr Talley wore a voluminous 18th-century-style ivory silk great coat, designed especially for him by Karl Lagerfeld, which made for a quite the contrast as he stood next to Ms Zellweger at the arrivals area. Talk about two opposite ends coming together! Other well turned-out male guests include handsome Timothy Shifter (husband of budding socialite Helen Lee Shifter and owner of the Le SportSac handbag and accessories’ company), the always delicious-looking Tom Ford in Gucci, Hamish Bowles and Harpers Bazaar’s Stephen Gan in Christian Dior Homme, designer Peter Som, the CFDA’s Stan Herman, and actor Benjamin Bratt (with wife Talisa Soto in Dolce & Gabbana).
   Other guests attending the benefit gala included designers Diane von Furstenberg in DVF (with husband, Barry Diller), 2004 CFDA Fashion Award winner Carolina Herrera (in Carolina Herrera), Vera Wang (with her husband), Stella McCartney (by her lonesome but looking fabulous just the same), and handbag and accessories’ queen Kate Spade in John Anthony Couture. Representatives from the magazine world included Kate Betts (formerly of Harper’s Bazaar and now with Time Style & Design), Bergdorf Blondes author Plum Sykes (in Alexander McQueen), the International Herald–Tribune’s Suzy Menkes in a lilac coloured design from Paris-based designer Mina Poe, the always gracious Mary Lou Luther and Neiman–Marcus’s Joan Kaner in Chado Ralph Rucci and stylist extraordinaire, Vogue’s Grace Coddington, in Heidi Slimane.
   The Trump family was out in full force, proving yet again that divorce doesn’t have to be fatal and time really heals most wounds. The Donald (Trump, Mr ‘You’re Fired’ himself) looked rather dignified next to his fiancée, Melanie Knauss. The first Mrs Trump, Ivana, has only improved with age (and periodical touch-ups, if you get my drift), and she looked positively ravishing in her coat and gown outfit by Zang Toi. Ivanka Trump, the most social of all their children, held her own against all others in a pretty Behnaz Sarafpour lingerie-inspired cocktail slip dress.
   ’Seventies’ supermodel Patti Hansen has lost none of the beauty that took her to the top of her profession and kept her there for more years than she care to count. Ms Hansen attended the event with her daughters, budding models Theodora and Alexandra Richards (both in Stephen Burrows). Tennis star Serena Williams (in Versace), won over the photographers by patiently standing as long as it took for them all to take her picture, an act Tom Ford never bothered to do as he virtually flew—à la Marc Anthony—up the stairs into the Museum.
   As for the exhibition itself, it beautifully illustrates the smouldering cauldron of sexuality bubbling under the barely contained veneer of eighteenth-century sophisticated high society. ‘The eighteenth century seems so chilly and remote,’ says Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume Institute; therefore, this was an opportunity to show people the idea of men and women in eighteenth-century France ‘leading interesting lives.’
   Set in seven riveting scenarios, one doesn’t need to have an overly active imagination to get caught up in the sexual and social undercurrents emanating from each tableau. In the first, The Portrait in the Tesse Room, a mannequin representing the prototype of the court portraitist is a witness to marriage in flux and infidelity at play. No amount of beautiful clothing or wealth can prevent the aristocratic woman being painted from feeling anger at her husband blatantly flirting with her friend.
   In the Cabris Room (The Toilette), the sexual tension comes from a woman having her hair upholstered by an Italian coiffeur while her lover ogles her. Wearing only a white négligée trimmed with flounces, she shamelessly eggs him on. Apparently even back then, there is nothing more erotic than voyeuristic public sex—even if you are fully clothed.
   One of the livelier tableaux was conceived in the Varengeville Room. During the Ball showed a group of women in spectacularly gorgeous court gowns momentarily relaxing from the constant whirl of the party going on in the next room. One of them, overcome with excitement—from playing footsies with the gentleman across from her at the table, or maybe her corset is drawn too tightly, who knows?—has fainted; and no one, spare the two women closest to her, seemed all that concerned.
   Every room has an interesting and arresting story—seen and unseen—to tell; and one simply cannot get the whole story from one viewing. The Accident in the Sevres Room is a modern-day tale of the excitable second trophy wife, who fails to realize that just because the mountain is there, you don’t have to climb it. While her husband was preoccupied with examining a piece of furniture, she responded to the flattering advances of the marchand mercier or antiques’ dealer, upsetting her dogs and knocking over a Sevres vase in the process. Sex and lust can surely make us do some very foolish things indeed. •

Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor of Lucire.

Serena Williams won over the photographers by standing as long as it took for them all to take her picture, an act Tom Ford never bothered to do

 

LEFT COLUMN: Patti Hansen. ABOVE, FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Linda Evangelista and Angela Lindvall. Queer Eye’s Thom Filicia. Fellow Fab Five cast member Carson Kressley. The CFDA’s Stan Herman and Peter Arnold. Fashion editor Mary Alice Stephenson. Melania Knauss and Donald Trump. Ivana Trump and guest. Ivanka Trump and Behnaz Sarafpour. BELOW, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Tesse Room’s The Portrait. Lady in the Doorway. The Ball, in the Varengeville Room. The Card Game, in the Bordeaux Room. The Accident, in the Sevres Room.


 

Lucire: ‘Les Liaisons Dangereuses’exhibition preview (March 17)

 

 

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Lucire: fashion magazine homeLucire Fashion FeaturesLucire Living and Beauty Lucire Volante: travel, accommodation guide Lucire fashion news, bulletins and events Fashion shopping guide and directory
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