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FashionLucire Fashion 2004

Jack Yan speaks with Sabatini’s Tony Milich on his label, his plans to enter the US market and previews its autumn–winter 2005 collection

SPRING IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSEF GERANIO
CATWALK PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL NG

 

Official internet partner: Stockholm FashionDays

MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: Sabatini spring–summer 2004–5. ABOVE, FROM TOP: A sketch previewing autumn–winter 2005. Images from the autumn–winter 2004 show.

ABATINI is one of those rare labels that has a familiar story to Lucire's: it is more better known outside New Zealand. ‘Eighty per cent of our production goes to Australia,’ relayed Tony Milich, founder of the label.
   Milich is a familiar face to fashion writers: an oft-awarded designer in the days of New Zealand’s Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards, most commentators will recognize
him instantly. Today, Sabatini sees its brand as the one that takes the credit, rather than any particular designer, and Milich can still be seen at the end of catwalk shows, proudly taking his bow.
   It is not Milich alone. Sharing the limelight at these shows often is his sister, Margie Evans. During our interview, Evans popped by and confirmed that this was still very much a family firm—where familial commitment, vision and trust rule the day more than profit margins.
   Milich is one to speak frankly about the state of New Zealand fashion. Sabatini has become one of the country’s export success stories and its relatively quiet profile in its home country can be immediately contrasted with the cachet it holds in Australia. In major stores, Sabatini takes pride of place, considered more sophisticated than European imports. Buyers for these Australian boutiques and chains are anything but dumb: they know a good thing when they see it, and Lucire has often considered Sabatini one of its favourites—as it did last year at L’Oréal New Zealand Fashion Week.
   In fact, the Sabatini reputation is so strong that when Milich’s niece Danielle showed at Sydney under the Milich & Morton label, the Australian media were quick to seize on the Sabatini ‘dynasty’.
   Sabatini's Tony Milich speaks highly of the Australian consumer and buyer: 'Australian buyers are international fashion travellers and they view the best world fashion there is on offer.
   'Many of these professional buyers regard Sabatini as an international label, with a proven sell-through record encompassing over 12 years.'
   Sabatini White will be shown at both Air New Zealand Fashion Week and Mercedes Australian Fashion Week Melbourne, and Lucire has already taken a quick peek at what the label will send down the catwalk-sophisticated and complete are two words that come to mind. Sabatini White will show distinctive trim and pocket details. And to be totally sure, we hopped over to Australia to observe that Sabatini's base in Toorak was busier than American presidential campaign headquarters, with Evans and her husband running the show.
   Australia is key to Sabatini's expansion, including to the United States where it already has a foothold—California is first, aiming at 20 boutiques early next year.
   To become world-class, 'a label must succeed in Australia before exporting further afield. By establishing the label there, the stepping stones to new markets will unfold!' said Milich.
   He has not been delighted at New Zealand governmental efforts to aid exports, however. ‘I think that New Zealand government agencies need to become more flexible if they are to materially assist fashion exporting. Exporting high-priced niche fashion has many detailed factors only unique to fashion! The CER [closer economic relations] with [Communist] China creates further controversy and requires more lateral thinking,’ he said.
   As to the autumn-winter 2005 collection, Milich revealed that Sabatini would continue to 'invent'. '[We] create a lot of our own fabrics and colours to give unique surface interest. We follow up with styling that is fashion-forward with a definite edge!' Expect a full range from coats to accessories. The Californians will, we expect, love it. •

For our full autumn–winter 2005 Air New Zealand Fashion Week preview, check out the November 2004 issue of Lucire, on newsstands in New Zealand October 4. Click here to subscribe on our secure server (click OK if you get a warning window).

Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.

 

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Lucire: fashion magazine homeLucire Fashion FeaturesLucire Living and Beauty Lucire Volante: travel, accommodation guide Lucire fashion news, bulletins and events Fashion shopping guide and directory
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