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FashionLucire autumn-winter 2005

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My boyfriend’s coming home and he’ll have nothing to wear
SINCE THE DAWN of time, women have been wearing their husband’s or boyfriend’s clothing. It’s a practice also followed by gay men: after all, what better way to stay close to your better half? Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel rose to prominence with her early designs, which were based in part on the articles of clothing she purloined from her lovers; and designers are still following her lead to this day. Borrowing from the men was a big trend on the catwalks, resulting in some fabulously tailored pants (Richard Tyler, Bill Blass, Michael Kors), a justified renaissance for the always iconic western duster coat popularized by John Wayne and other western action stars (David Rodriguez, Bill Blass, Michael Kors) and the three-piece suit, reworked to great effect by John Varvatos in his Charlie’s Angels-tinged collection. Zang Toi’s signature tuxedo suit, as worn by the underrated Asian model, Ling, also tapped into this trend.

Emma Peel appeal: the lean and mean season
A CARRYOVER from the previous category, I couldn’t help but fall in love with the modern, updated sportswear looks that were smart, chic and understatedly sexy. I am a sucker for a smartly dressed woman; and I loved the fantastic pairings of tailored suit and cropped jackets, fitted blouses, and barely there tops—all with beautifully-cut trousers and pencil skirts. Michael Volbracht for Bill Blass, Carolina Herrera, Vivienne Tam, Richard Tyler (love that red satin suit!), Kenneth Cole and Jennifer Nicholson all showed pieces that exemplify the trend and the reasons it will never go away. These pieces have the ability to be professional office wear for day, and can be changed out with the addition of evening jewellery for a night out on the town. It gets even better when beading, embroidery and other fineries are incorporated into the design. •

Subscribe or purchase single copiesSee the full story with more reviews, more labels, and Phillip D. Johnson’s controversial picks on the best of New York Fashion Week, in the May 2005 print edition of Lucire, out now in New Zealand and Australia.
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Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor of Lucire. Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire.

Some designers, who should have known better, chose this season to coast. Leave the retrospective exhibitions for future Costume Institute curators at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Get back to work!

ABOVE, FROM TOP: Bill Blass, David Rodriguez, John Varvatos, Zang Toi, John Varvatos, Michael Kors, Vivienne Tam, Jennifer Nicholson, Bill Blass.

 


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Lucire: fashion magazine homeLucire Fashion FeaturesLucire Living and Beauty Lucire Volante: travel, accommodation guide Lucire fashion news, bulletins and events Fashion shopping guide and directory
Lucire Community: interact with us, read letters to the editorLucire Updates' service: sign up Lucire Feedback