WIMWEAR IS big business now; it's no longer just another licence deal to be shunted-off to a lowly design assistant to handle. Accordingly, Fern Mallis, Executive Director of Seventh on Sixth and Senior Vice-President of IMG/Fashion USA launched the first-ever Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami presented by Lycra in Miami's on the grounds of the Raleigh Hotel, one of South Beach's foremost landmarks.

WWD reported on the trend, over six months ago, in a December 9, 2004 article. Melanie Kletter wrote: ‘Swimwear was also a favorite on the fashion runways this season [spring 2005], shown by Louis Vuitton, Carmen Marc Valvo and Versace. Fashion companies view swimwear as a way to round out their assortments, pump up sales and build their businesses as lifestyle brands. … Women's swimwear sales were $2·2 billion from June 2003 to May 2004, up 5 percent over the previous year, according to the NPD Group, a marketing information company.’

This being the case, it's not surprising that prestigious makeup companies such as NARS and MAC used the Miami shows to test out hot new products that are due to hit the market this fall. Although it looked like the tents at Bryant Park, with many of the same fashionistas in attendance, Seventh on Sixth's clever decorative touches such as clear plastic, rather than canvas, tents and the incomparable pools and grounds at the Raleigh placed the scene squarely in Miami, rather than New York's Bryant Park. Backstage, though, when it came to the energy and creativity we witnessed, it was just like New York Fashion Week.

ITH SUNGLASS HUT as one of the Miami Swim Shows' official name sponsors, it wasn't a big surprise that sunglasses played a pivotal role in just about every show. We loved the variations on the huge Jackie O. oversized wrap-arounds as seen at Carmen Marc Valvo, Red Carter South Beach, and Cosabella Mare. Bulgari was right on target with their

Cosabella Mare

chic wide framed white sunglasses at Inca, which are the epitome of ’70s cool.

That's not to say that there weren't other great accessories. There were plenty of bejewelled stilettos and Lucite wedges at Carmen Marc Valvo and Gideon Oberson for the glamourpuss and a refreshing alternative, the good-old espadrille, made new in lace-up ballerina styles. Our hands-down favourite though was the espadrille shaped as an Ugg Boot at the Cosabella Mare Show.

When it came to hair and make-up, we were delighted to discover that NARS and MAC flew down some of their A-list talent to create the gorgeous tawny skin that is as important as the actual swimsuits the models wore. Hair wizards Ric Pipino (see Lucire September 2005) and Oribe (both have salons in Miami) channelled Brigitte Bardot in her ingénue period with sexy up-dos at Rosa Cha and Red Carter South Beach respectively. NARS’ senior stylist, James Boehmer, a member of the team since 1997, did his magic at Inca and Cosabella Mare as did MAC Cosmetics' senior artist Judy Irrizary at Carmen Marc Valvo.

The nail story across the board was natural but groomed, and barely there shades such as Revlon's 'sheer blush' and 'ballet buff' and 'naked truth' by Essie Cosmetics, prevailed on the catwalks and in the audience.

And finally, perhaps best of all, the pros gave us a preview of some exciting new make-up products available this fall at the counters that will give the rest of us the opportunity to recreate the head-turning faces and sexy hair straight from the Miami catwalks.

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Carmen Marc Valvo

Cosabella Mare

Gideon Oberson