Lisboa's fashion jackpot
Twenty-nine designers showcased their collections
for autumn–winter 2008–9 in an increasingly world class Moda Lisboa,
reports Tiago Santo
LIKE NO OTHER SETTING, Lisboa’s Fashion
Week gave itself up for a pioneer happening in a casino!
The casino atmosphere featured the best fashion
designers on the catwalk, while gambling fanatics chose to look
aside and continue betting.
Lisboa’s Fashion Week translated itself into a
four-day event where, once again, rich embroidered textiles, fusing
prosperous designs and well-off patterns made heads shake and mouths
drop with the imagery exposed on the catwalk.
Fashion designers profiled their winter collections
with bright, strong colours, leaving one’s mind wondering if they
were presenting their winter or summer collections.
Low cuts, flowing textiles and breezy materials
may have suggested this was typically a summer festival when we
might just blame global warming for summery clothes in winter.
Besides models and couture fusionists, Portugal’s
fashion week has raised its children well. All who made an appearance
this season have defiantly obtained their success through past presences.
Not only are they getting their earned success,
they’re getting better by the season which may just justify front-row
appearances from new international journalists from the us, France,
Italy and Spain.
If this were Project Runway and I a younger Tim Gunn, this
designer would be classified as top talent.
Not only was it a great collection but it was
a men’s collection.
It was brilliantly inspired by air, captains and
male heroic storytellers. Pedro takes us through the 1940s, referencing
aviators’ suits and contemporary travel.
The silhouette is slim and elongated through the
usage of scarves and oversized accessories. Wool, leather and cotton
are the main materials.
Alves showed a conceptual line entitled Wrong. The collection’s
insight derived mainly from ‘What can possibly go wrong?’, whether
it be flaws, mistakes or setbacks of day-to-day lifestyle.
‘I accept them [mistakes] whole-heartedly because
there was a lot to learn from all of them and they were often the
departure for new and more interesting work!’ said Alves.
It’s a statement well put when seeing the firmness
of the collection, anticipating a well brought together mix of patterns
and "errors" that just made the collection usable.
The silhouette is unclear in shape and form, as
parts of the body are wrapped around in different textiles.
Silk, denim and cotton present a blend mix of
tenuous colours such as black, mustard yellow, olive drab and different
shades of grey.
In a decadent bourgeoisie theme, Dino has outdone
himself once again, showing a consistent collection that’s styled
preferably for the young in 2009.
It’s been seen before but I must admit that collegial uniform-inspired
collections make me wonder.
The designer’s vision regarding the elimination
of social boundaries through uniforms has inspired others, but have
a good twist and informality.
Wool, cotton mixtures and silk made it to the
runway, cementing Ricardo’s point of view of what social upbringing
should aspire to at the end of 2009.
Coquette meets geometrical shapes from the 1960s. Filipe Faisca
was one of the most interesting collections to check out for 2009,
mostly because it’s amusing to see designers struggle to capture
the libertine look, through structured textures and masculine-feminine
Grey, beige, pink, deep purple and metallic shapes
cover a fluid silhouette that, for me, seems to be thrashing the
libertine years, evolving to a more consistent and geometrical era.
Katty has always been one of my all-time favourites, whose work
has always been worth mentioning.
Although working well and consistently through her collections,
Metropolis was a beautiful rerun of what I had imagined from
Futuristic, deliciously declining and melancholic
are what best describe Katty and her vision of the future.
Mechanical forms are treated more smoothly and
incorporated into day-to-day fashion; volumes and shapes tend to
get bigger as well.
Katty uses colours that reflect both brightness
and darkness, blending them with sobriety and respect for harmony.
Jose Antonio Tenente
As one of the most respected designers at Fashion Week, Tenente
is always an artist to watch out for because of his conciseness.
Almost flawless and beautifully paired in men’s
and women’s styles, Tenente reaches for a classical reference, grasping
a challenging time warp between the 17th and 20th centuries.
Grey, aubergine, light red and lime shed upon
micro patterns and traditional male constructions in tweed, twill,
Techno-nature! What is that you ask? Imagine a more conceptual
line with a cross-shaping of materials.
Inspired by the meaning we give to animals and
nature, the collection’s point of view somehow presents an odd landscape
Although more subtle and wearable, Miguel thrives to always take
his collections one step further. His attitude towards fashion has
extended from the runways as his talent spread into home décor,
eyewear and jewellery.
For autumn–winter, Miguel’s vision of sophistication
is reflected in the belted retro-cut men’s suits and in the volumetric
curves of sensuality in women.
The silhouettes are geometrical and bathed in
a moonless-night black and blue carbon. Materials such as pure wool,
cashmere, silk and false astrakhan derive from Miguel’s earlier
The heritage behind Nuno’s collection anticipates all of his effort
to give something extra to men’s garments and accessories.
Gama is an inspired designer who we are happy
to see back at Fashion Week, where he portrays a modern and elegant
silhouette that has a tension with tradition. •
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From top: Nuno Gama, Pedro Mourao, Dino
Alves, Ricardo Dourado, Filipe Faisca, Katty Xiomara, Jose Antonio
Tenente, Lidija Kolovrat, Miguel Vieira.