fashion: the circuit
Time for reflashion—Moda Lisboa
This season, fashion seems to be embracing
other causes besides clothes and style, part of a global trend as
Tiago Espirito Santo discovers at Moda Lisboa
AS WITH MANY SEASONS where there are
major events in the world, Lisboas designers reflect the state
of the world in their collections. In a era of greater conscience,
models are refusing to wear anything related to animal cruelty and
even fashion weeks are repulsed by over-skinny models.
The world is changing as we know it and tradition
is yet to be reinvented once again, even in the fashion business!
An industry that perceived as somewhat superficial
is now trying to show off its major concern for social development
and worthy causes.
Reflashion, a symbiosis between fashion
and reflection, is the new it term, it appears.
The understanding of how fashion impacts culture, how it merges
into society and what its contribution seems to be.
Following the footsteps for the global reflashion
theme, Lisboas fashion week clinched to yet once again superb
follow-up of designers who wanted to express their social view through
Miguel Vieira, one of
the most successful Portuguese designers, describes his summer collection
like being in a journey with friends. Throughout his
collection, the main characters confront distinct settings, assuming
and embodying different personas that adapt to strange settings.
Miguel leads us to an exciting journey that is reinforced through
the use of colours that typically characterize his collections:
black, white, gold and silver. Luxury reflects itself through the
fabrics or accessories here.
Miguel is always one of the biggest shows at Lisboa,
chosen this season to be the first to present his collection on
20 Age Social Club was the theme behind Nuno
Gamas collection that translated the cosmopolitan feel
of some African countries, such as Angola and Mozambique, in the
Inspired by a recent trip to this continent, Nuno
Gama felt the need to incorporate textures and graphic design that
was emblematic of this culture. His revival collection is a journey
through the different atmospheres that inspired him but also as
a celebration of his successful 20-year career.
Although the collection had a retro feel to it,
Nuno was able to incorporate a contemporary beat, mixing just a
bit of classic design with a touch of formality.
It was one of the most anticipated runway shows
of the season and, subsequently, one of the most applauded by its
creativity, innovation and quality.
Bertoluccis movie The Sheltering Sky was the inspiration
behind Nuno Baltazars
collection. The African desert along with a speck of 50s
glamour gave a sense of nostalgia.
Nuno Baltazar was able to create different emotional
states using different textures, patterns and silhouettes. This
collection was dominated by cotton, linen, silk in organza, satin,
crèpes, embroideries and taffetas for formal dressing.
Black Is Not Always Back celebrated colour in Ana
Usually known for her monochromatic collections,
Ana Salazar bewildered her audience with colour. It was an out
of the box collection, where the designer decided to abandon
ones comfort zoneresulting in one of Salazars
Colours such as rose, orange and acid green acid
were dominant in fabrics like organza, structured satins and waxed
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Above: Nuno Baltazar.
Above: Ana Salazar.