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Africa meets modernity Filipe Faísca, spring–summer 2010.

Fashion force: Lisboa’s spring–summer ’10

After the financial meltdown, Europe seems to be recovering from the storm while the fashion industry slowly gets back on its feet again. The force is back all through major European fashion capitals and Lisboa is no exception. New trends, designers and attitude are settling back in to Portugal’s fashion week, says Tiago Espirito Santo

 

Alexandra Moura In Moura’s spring–summer 2010 collection, Following … in Red, the inspiration comes from the early 1920s and the 1980s. The red colour represents the wish and the desire; the way it’s used brings conveys the strength, the love and the joy for life. Other key colours for this collection include black, pink and a hint of silver along with design features such as piping, double collars and trimmings. The designer says, ‘I liked the fresh preppy looks in fluid jersey twin-sets and the ones with “twisted yuppie” shirts and matching shorts.’   Ana Salazar A light and fluid silhouette is Salazar’s design æsthetic for summer 2010. She has created a collection that combines the use of draping with ruffles and pleats. Romantic yet sophisticated, this collection promises to please the modern, urban female consumer. The key materials that are used in this collection are silk, chiffon, jersey knitting, wool and satin with lacquered finishing. Hues such as matte and brilliant black, citric green and cobalt blue make each piece stand out with the help of abstract prints in smudgy tones of pink, green and orange.   Filipe Faísca Faísca’s collection is all about fusion and the reinterpretation of African cultures in harmony with a modern, contemporary lifestyle. An oversized, fluid structured silhouette took centre-stage, playing upon masculinity versus femininity. The pieces were created from contrasting fabrics such as tough leather paired with delicate silk china crêpe and georgette crêpe, in tones of black, white, cocoa, skin rose, flaming red and deep blue.   Jose Antonio Tenente Glory nights. Dance floor. Funk chic. Glamorous soul. The sophisticated atmosphere of the late ’70s inspired the mixture of silhouettes, colours—fuschia, scarlet and violet. Retro patterns were at the core of Jose Antonio Tenente’s collection.   Katty Xiomara Sensuality, delicacy, elegance, sophistication and passion. Xiomara’s wild flower inspiration translates into a colourful and feminine collection, full of rich and delicious textures, patterns and overlays of fabric.   Miguel Vieira In a search for harmony and inspiration, Vieira’s collection reflects an exoticism only found in deep Africa. Exuberance. Fantasy. Seduction. What else would you expect from Miguel?

Luis Buchinho Buchinho’s collection was inspired by underwater images of Medusa, capturing their wavy movements through asymmetrical construction. The silhouette consisted of long and fluid versus short and structured shapes. Asymmetry was evident in nearly every garment of the collection, creating dynamic silhouettes. The colour palette showed hues of strong blue, mauve, sky blue, anise, white, pearl, black, pink flour and orange.   Nuno Baltazar Streets, sounds, textures, colours—one emotional trip, one smile straight from the heart. Baltazar’s designs for summer 2010 are a blend between major European trends with a speck of African motifs, underplaying the modernity of the collection. Colours like white sand, ivory, argyle, cinnamon, sanguine, sepia, night blue and black contrast with shades of coral fuchsia, blue, emerald, oil and red.   Nuno Gama L’Homme de Lisbonne: Gama’s inspiration come from the avid lovers of beauty, luxury and novelty, who proclaim their distinctiveness by reinventing habits, challenging prejudice and setting their own set of rules. The collection comprises hybrid examples of sportswear clothing. Details of the interior lining are visible on the outside, symbolizing change, while appealing to a technological society.   Pedro Pedro Skin-tight, sculptured clothing. Conceptual glamour. Sexy urban women ready to hit the beach scene. Slim shapes contrast with more casual clothing pieces inspired by urban sport.   Ricardo Preto Ricardo’s collection, entitled Tiger Love, symbolizes force and boldness, incorporating the male and the female sides of wisdom, transmutation, force, braveness and serenity. She lives in her jungle habitat, protected and secure. Preto’s collection stood out in vibrant tones such as saffron yellow, klein blue, blue–grey, brick, amethyst, red and beige. Main fabrics used were chiffon, twill and jersey. •     Tiago Espirito Santo is Lisboa correspondent for Lucire.   Related articles Top marks at Massey Jack Yan sees that Massey University’s standards are rising again, in time for its 10th anniversary graduate show photographed by Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography Heartcore Tiago Espirito Santo attends the latest Moda Lisboa, where the mood was less vibrant than at previous years’ shows

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