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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit


Springtime in Lisboa

Tiago Espirito Santo brings us his coverage of Moda Lisboa, and the spring–summer 2011 collections of Portugal’s top designers

 

Stolen Girlfriends' Club Alves Goncalves Very distinctive and varied shapes and colours from Goncalves for this season.

 

Filipe Faísca
FILIPE FAÍSCAS COLLECTION WAS inspired by the desert and its tough environment of evasion and disconnection. He was able to translate that into sophisticated images and silhouettes of a city atmosphere, and as a result he got a classic, eternal and feminine collection.
   The colour palette showed a lot of metallics, black and white, sand, khaki green and mint green, strawberry, carmin and scarlet. Main fabrics used were silk and viscose jersey, silk mousseline, crepe georgette and guipure lace.

 

Ricardo Preto
For this season, Preto searches for a new feminine silhouette, inspired by the portrait of a woman who is sexy and sure of herself. He juggles with different heights and lengths, and the classical shapes are deconstructed with unexpected details. His strongest influences were Paul Poiret and his ideal of a new female fashion, and Dagobert Peche with his æsthetical eclecticism, made of undulant shapes and full of movement.
   The fabrics used were silk, poplin, cotton and jersey. The colour palette is neutral: shades of grey, beige, blue, brown and black, and some complementary colours, like coral and chromium blue.

 

Alves/GonçalvesAlves–Gonçalves
Alves–Gonçalves (right and top) features free and spontaneous templates and forms this season. The key materials are organza brocade with metallic, silk jerseys and prints, silk crèpe and laser-cut mousselines.
   The styling presents an intense contemporary look with an eclectic colour code with roses, greys, black, white and spring prints.


Luis Buchinho
The inspiration of Luis Buchinho for his latest collection was the African landscape at dusk. The rude and harsh environment of this theme is carried through to a dynamic and urban collection, using a set of lines that draw the body in a natural and organic way.
   The use of organic raw materials reaffirms the more natural side of the collection, in tones of white, black, sand, tobacco, cinnamon, rust and dirt.
   Buchinho’s collection stood out in asymmetries, colour contrasts and visual texture.


Cia Marítima by Benny Rosset
Morocco, with its mystical culture and an explosion of nuances, smells and tastes, was the inspiration for Cia Marítima’s spring–summer 2011 collection.
   With a boho vintage style, this new collection emerges as classic, but with personality reaching in to the contemporary. It brings a blend of hippie glamour, with ethnicity and an exotic air.

 

Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura’s newest collection was based on observations under optical microscopy, which she thinks is capable of carrying our imagination to worlds that we might not normally contemplate.
   The collection had a lot of asymmetry and rough cuts, and the structures were defined in A-line, with boat necklines, three-quarter sleeves and pleats.
   The key materials that were used in this collection were cotton, viscose and elastane, in tones of beige, light blue, black, grey and rust.

 


Ana Salazar

Ana Salazar’s spring–summer 2011 collection, Work in Progress, features transparency, deconstruction, draping and tailoring elements, resulting in a lighter and diversified look.
   The silhouettes are tight, combined with draped elements; lace and metal zippers contribute to texture and shine.
   The designer used tulle and lace lacquer, followed by multi-printed silks, textured fabrics, satins and mesh jersey. Black was dominant, contrasting with the whites, metallic greys, and prints in green bamboo and pink.


Nuno Gama
Gama’s collection, entitled Desire of the Sea, symbolizes his passion for sea adventures, inspired by Nazare’s fishermen and his recent trip to the Middle East.
   From this combination of inspirations has emerged a new menswear collection, with a new manly, dynamic and multicultural image.
   The concepts of comfort, practicality and cosmopolitanism, and the etiquette of old European snobbery, are corrupted by a sarcastic sense of humour and the strong visual impact of some garments.

continued

 


Filipe Faísca


Ricardo Preto


Luis Buchinho


Cia Maritíma


Nuno Gama
 
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