With his second collection at Paris Fashion
Weekhis fourth to dateEhud Joseph
has shown his strength as a designer, writes Sopheak Seng
ORIGINALLY from a fine arts
background, Ehud Joseph graduated in 2006 from the MA
programme at Central Saint Martins, London. He then worked
for a variety of labels and taught before relaunching his own eponymous
label in 2009.
This was not his first foray into menswear. Long-time
readers will remember Lucire covering Josephs designs
in the late 1990s, and even his work on a 2001 shoot in Wellington.
Since then, his travels have taken him on a very different path,
with the menswear collections in Paris hopefully now a regular occurrence
on his calendar.
For his spring 2012 collection, Joseph continued to
explore the use of clothing as uniform and how they shape the wearer.
For this season, the ideas of migration, how we change and adapt
to suit circumstances, and how we protect ourselves and change within
our surrounding environments were prevalent. He may have used own
story (Joseph grew up in Israel, migrated to New Zealand, moved
to London, and is now based in Amsterdam) as inspiration.
Through this migration story of alienation, protection,
survival and reinvention, traditional menswear codes are challenged,
refashioned and subversed into modern silhouettes. Single-breasted
jackets have a double-breasted layer on top giving a trompe-lil
effect of wearing two jackets, while a heavy cotton suit is spliced
with sheer nylon deconstruction and traditional tailoring, softening
hard design lines.
Treated cottons and nylons give a sport-luxe effect
to the suiting, adding a dimension of the street to a collection
with such strong tailoring. A bright colour palette of harsh highlighter
yellow, cerulean blue and bright fuchsia (inspired by the territorial
markings of graffiti artists) is mixed with gritty concrete greys,
road-marking whites and harsh black, making the collection wearble
while commercially viable.
Stand-out pieces from the collection are the mandarin-collar
wrap biker jackets, the yellow trench coat and the digital graphic
prints that featured on T-shirts. Pieces are designed to question
the notion of personal reinvention, cultural norms and expectances.
Fashion that is not only wearable but also art.
Sopheak Seng is fashion editor of Lucire.