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Lucire: Fashion
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Lucire 2012
Venexiana fall 2012 NY beauty editor Reiva Cruze has a first-hand experience at the make-up at Venexiana.

An inside look at New York Fashion Week’s fall ’12 beauty

Our New York beauty editor, and professional make-up artist, Reiva Cruze, goes behind the scenes at the New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2012–13 shows for Venexiana, Chris Benz and Leather Japan
photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli

 

Venexiana
Venexiana, photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
Venexiana, photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
Venexiana, photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
Venexiana, photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
Venexiana, photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli
The designer herself wears such bold smoky eye make-up, rocks heavy black eyeliner, and loves those lashes (who doesn’t?) that it would be only fitting for her to want the same style for her fall collection. Backstage at the Venexiana show, both hairstylists and make-up artists scramble about to finish such intricate looks in what is known as ‘fashion week timing’. This just basically means: as fast as artistically (and humanly) possible.

Hair was a blend of crimped and curled, parted directly down the centre, and pinned up elegantly in the back. This modern sense of sophistication is a perfect match for Venexiana’s full-out stunning evening gowns.

The make-up was sponsored by David Klasfeld’s Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics and the key artist on board with us was the talented Lisa Aharon. Her look for the collection blew me away as it combined a black winged-out smoky eye blended with a warm copper tone shimmer on the lid. Both upper and (upside-down) lower lashes were added, and the lip was a cool, calm, neutral tone that intensified the eye make-up even more.

Venexiana’s collection showcased vibrant colours, movable fabrics, and flavourful textures. The dignified-yet-funky hair style glamourized the overall look beautifully and the make-up well, and they couldn’t have been a more perfect fit. This was not only a fabulous show to watch, but an even better one to have been a part of.

Click here to view the Venexiana collection.

 

Chris Benz

This was one of my favourite looks I saw this season. Not only was the collection spot-on and full of colour, but the make-up and hair selections for this season were, in short, a dream.

The hairstyling team came up with a 1960s’ messy bouffant look. They had styled blonde, brown, and black wigs ahead of time and gave them each a roughed-up “doll left outside for just one too many days” sort of look. It was fabulous.

The make-up was keyed by Lancôme’s own Daniel Martin, who I had the pleasure of working with on this show. Last season for spring, Daniel took a soft lime green eye, pairing it with a peachy cheek and an orangey lip. It was just gorgeous and I was looking forward to what he had in store for fall.

He brought the house down with his usual clean and vibrant make-up style. First, we blocked the brows using a clean mascara wand, powder and Elmer’s Glue, a back-seat, bottom-drawer technique and a make-up artist favourite. Then, over the top from lid to above the brow we used All That Glitters by Lancôme and a blending brush. For added intensity, we then applied a wet silver pigment across the lid and two generous coats of mascara for full, beautiful-looking lashes.

We went simple and clean for the face, a touch of warm pink on the cheeks, slight contour along the cheekbone, and finished with a peachy pink glossy lip. This look was drop-dead gorgeous when paired with the hair and, of course, the clothing. It had such a futuristic yet retro style to it and gelled so well with the collection. Not only did I enjoy working along side the talented Daniel Martin for the Chris Benz fall presentation, but I also love to rave about it which makes reviewing it so easy.

Chris Benz’s fall 2012 collection photographs by Stephen Ciuccoli can be found here.

 

Leather Japan

Harsh, bland, and alien-like—and in a good way. That would be how to describe the make-up look chosen for the fall 2012 Leather Japan show at Mercedes-Benz New Fashion Week in New York. Hirafumi Kera, director of make-up and hair at Shiseido, chose a clean, dewy-looking finish for the skin, based-out lips and a few dramatic eye shadow variations. Models were placed around the room in pairs, each rocking the same make-up and hair. One set of girls had wet-looking charcoal smoky eye which went exceptionally well with a teased-up fohawk, both wearing plastic-looking dresses with neon-coloured splatter marks strewn across the front. My favourite set was two girls both with based-out lips and eyes, no mascara and virtually no colour to the face. They had seven small braids pulled back into a low pony which only complemented the sleek black clothing Leather Japan is notorious for. This was the hot version of the dead and the bland. The last pair also had based-out lips and no cheek colour or contour, but just a defused smear of bright pink painted across each upper eye lid. The make-up and hair chosen for this collection corresponded beautifully. The lines and symmetry woven into the make-up translated beautifully into the clothing.

Beauty tip: Try Shiseido’s The Makeup Perfect Smoothing Compact Foundation with SPF 15, formulated with micro-coating technology providing medium coverage with an ultra-smooth finish. •


Above From the Leather Japan presentation for autumn–winter 2012–13.

 

 

 


 

Reiva Cruze is New York beauty editor of Lucire.

 

 

 

 

 

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