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Lucire: Fashion
the circuit


Escada Sport showed an eclectic mixture of patterns

Berlin: bright and bold for winter

From patterns to bright colours, Lilith-Fynn Herrmann checks out the best of Berlin’s autumn–winter 2012–13 catwalk
photographed by Maurice Luckett/Fashion Aviator, and Dan and Corina Lecca/Getty Images

 
Twice a year, Berlin becomes the international stage for fashion for a few days. This fashion spectacular has been growing steadily and, this year, Berlin Fashion Week brought us two new débutants: Show & Order, the trade fair for high fashion, and the Gallery Berlin, a platform for designer collections and accessories. In addition to the trade fairs for street and urban wear, Bread & Butter for premium labels, Bright for streetwear, New York fashion, and In Fashion Berlin for accessories, the shows of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at the Brandenburg Gate brings out the undisputed highlights of the Berlin Fashion Week. This season, the whole squad of German designers presented, for the tenth time, from January 18 to 21, 2012.


 

Escada Sport

Escada Sport kicked off Berlin Fashion Week this year and model Carol Remer opened the show at the Mercedes-Benz tent. The entire collection of the München-based label Escada Sport was characterized by a rather dark colour palette of bottle-green, dark petrol, brown, grey and black with a few, well set highlights of a moderate pink and dusky rose. The rigour of the high-necked dresses and blouses was broken by short, girly skirts and casual chinos. This game with conservative rigour and childlike lightness was supported skilfully by an eclectic selection of patterns. Diamond and checked patterns are combined with floral and marble prints. Outfits with fur coats and vests, knitted cardigans and long velvet dresses were complemented by light, flattering blouse fabrics.


 

Hugo Boss

 

The Hugo Boss show is one of the highlights of Fashion Week. Hugo by Hugo Boss presented an autumn–winter collection characterized by strict black-and-white combinations and some outfits in bright purple, orange and pink. Chief designer Eyen Allen focused on pure, clean lines and graphic patterns. A very narrow silhouette runs like a central theme through the entire collection. On the runway, top models such as Joan Smalls, Mirte Maas, Ming Xi and Karlie Kloss showed off the new collection. The show itself took place in an unusual location: the Wandelhalle, an impressive art gallery in Berlin Tiergarten, playing host to many prominent names.


 

Lala Berlin

 

Lala Berlin made a tribute to pale lilac with its autumn–winter collection. It was joined by dark khaki, crimson red, grey, black, and some cream-coloured highlights. Different variations of traditional Palestinian patterns and a large-scale feather print completed the unusual colour palette. The designer of Lala Berlin, Leyla Piedayesh, presented her speciality of exclusive knitwear. She combined this with long flowing silk skirts, airy chiffon blouses, oversized blazers with a military style and complemented the look with shiny knit caps. The collection, with an inspiration of ‘Quadrophenia meets Army meets Madame Grès’, was unusual and casual, combining a 1990s rocking grunge charm with a cool, urban elegance.




 
 

Stephan Pelger

 

Stephan Pelger, designer of his eponymous label, based in München and Bucaresti, took part in Berlin Fashion Week for the third time. His collection, inspired by historical films, was marked by a slight X-silhouette and exudes a very feminine charm reminiscent of the New Look of the ’50s, emphasized not least by the curlers in the models’ hair. Pelger showed his favourites: lamb fur coats and jackets, combined skilfully with leather and soft flowing silk fabrics. The colour palette is reduced to red, black and cream, accented only by minimalist silver jewellery. The print of a face from an old movie scene was a refreshing eye-catcher in the collection.

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