Lola Saab continues her look at Paris Fashion Week’s autumn–winter 2012–13 season, examining in greater depth the collections from Allude, K11, Valentin Yudashkin, Basil Soda
and Masha Ma
Above Allude. Below Basil Soda.
Valentin Ambramovich Yudashkin certainly put on a show with his
pleasingly simple and even slightly sophisticated designs. The Russian designer provides allure and
poise to a woman’s grace and beauty, either with particularly feminine
constructions or innovative masculine designs.
The Salon Aiglon
at the Hôtel Westin in Paris welcomed Yudashkin’s flamboyant show
within the hotel’s urbane walls. The eveningwear ranged
from striking cocktail to classy evening dresses that embraced
feminine curves. The designer also
created a slightly tomboy look, sustaining a highly feminine
effect, including an ensemble of a pair of black pants, a white
dress shirt, a black jacket and a thin black necktie, looking more feminine than one would expect. The colours are
simple—mainly shades of black. However, the designer uses detail
and a play on fabrics to create original elements on the runway.
Fashion is not only an artistic feature; it is also a poetic element
that creates words using materials, textures and colours to tell
a lyrical tale. For two consecutive years, in 2009 and in 2010,
Masha Ma won the Best International Innovation Award in the CCDC Design Contest. Watching Ma’s new collection magnificently stride down the runway, we begin to understand
how she has successfully earned herself such accolades.
Ma presented the first time in Paris
at Hôtel Westin. Her autumn–winter 2012–13 collection revolves
around Oscar Wilde’s beautiful yet somewhat melancholic story, The
Nightingale and the Rose. The story rotates around the themes of
love and sacrifice between nature and humanity.
Each ensemble has
a sophisticated feature, with various constructions highlighting
their modern appeal. Materials ranged from
cashmere, silk, lambskin to Japanese cotton, all playing an important
role in the collection. The main
colour on the catwalk was pure white; it included dabs of blues and purples creating feather prints, symbolizing the nightingale. Looks in all black and touches
of gold also made their way out on the runway, with long coats and
lean dresses with ruffles along the waist, tightly embracing the
figure. In-depth features including high fur
collars, zippers and constant layering of pieces portrayed an extra
dimension. The show was a spectacular sight with many forms, shapes and colours intertwined to tell an everlasting
Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.
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||Paris Fashion Week autumn–winter 2012–13: the journey begins
In part one of our in-depth Paris Fashion Week reviews, Lola Saab gives her in-depth look at the early shows, with Fátima Lopes, Corrado de Biase, Steffie Christiaens and Dévastée
The best of London’s autumn–winter 2012–13 catwalk as selected by Lilith-Fynn Herrmann, with words by the Lucire staff
photographed by Maurice Luckett/Fashion Aviator
||Berlin: bright and bold for winter
From patterns to bright colours, Lilith-Fynn Herrmann checks out the best of Berlin’s autumn–winter 2012–13 catwalk
photographed by Maurice Luckett/Fashion Aviator, and Dan and Corina Lecca/Getty Images
Looking back on 2009, one can reminisce upon German
designer Andrea Karg’s beautiful looks on the runway during New York Fashion Week.
Fast forward to 2012, Karg takes her aptitude and flair
under the luminous fashion spotlight in Paris at the Grand Palais.
The brand, founded in 1993, is highly recognized for its beautifully
soft materials of cashmere and silks. The main material Allude
revolves around is cashmere, used to create her first creation almost twenty years ago:
a V-neck pullover designed in 15 different shades.
The first piece having gone down in Allude’s history, the same
soft material persists two decades later with the sense
of feeling warm, comfortable and still staying chic. The designer
is able to create sexy and flamboyant looks with stunning colours
in lighter and darker shades, with a range of many stylish cuts still
emphasizing an absolutely feminine look.
is simply stylish with a sophisticated twist to feminine appeal.
With the hair divided in the middle and straightened back, a face
of simple beauty with slightly glossed lips is revealed, focusing
our main attention on the pieces. They
include large sweaters, short and long cardigans flowing as the
garment underneath hugs the body creating a sense of opposition
together in one ensemble; the knee-high skirts and dresses vary
from simple to fabulously enticing. Accessories include chic long
scarves which play a key role in many of the looks.
The famous Hôtel Ritz located at the Place Vendôme in Paris was
a spectacular place to welcome Basil Soda’s chic new collection,
in a simple and intimate presentation. The prestigious
venue, Salons d’Été, permitted the spectators to walk around the
room and dissect details and forms that each piece
had to offer. Ensembles were elegantly surrounded by open box-like
structures as the luxurious chandeliers’ light gleamed upon each
look, highlighting their taste and fragile appearances. From
the Lebanese designer’s haute couture to his ready-to-wear collections,
Soda certainly creates feminine designs with completely flawless
features, almost reflecting a futuristic woman. His
looks are red carpet-worthy, with amazing cuts, shapes and vividly
flirtatious colours that accentuate the wearer’s curves.
Above Basil Soda. Below Valentin Yudashkin.
K11—Xiao Yu & Huishan Zhang
Le Pavillon Vendôme welcomed an artistic presentation surrounded
by its majestic modern walls. K11 supports young talent and created
a vivid ambiance, using profound art and culture with the theme of
fashion. It is not haute couture, it is not even
art culture, but art couture: as guests
dive into this world, we immediately begin to understand this exceptional
concept. The presentation consisted of lively music, dance performances,
spectacular photography and, of course, chic designs artistically
presented in a contemporary way.
theme was called Lightness of Being, derived from the philosophical
novel by Milan Kundrea, The Unbearable Lightness of Being. The
two young designers, Xiao Yu and Huishan Zhang certainly had their
pieces shown in the “light” for people to mesmerize upon and enjoy
throughout the calm Parisian soirée.
Xiao Yu was born in Chongqing,
China and paved herself a future into the path of fashion. She graduated
from the Affiliated School of Sichuan Fine Arts Academy in 1991
and earned a degree in fashion design at the Academy of Arts and
Design, Tsinghua University in 1995. In 2007, Xiao obtained a master’s
degree in Fashion Design and Technology at the London College of Fashion.
Her début collection marked the beginning of her adventure into
her continual fashion ordeal; in 1998 she presented her first fashion
show during China Fashion Week and achieved the title of ‘Top
Ten Chinese Fashion Designers’.
This season, Xiao provided spectators
with a highly artistic fashion sense. She used the same shades of
black and white and played with the structure and construction
of each look, providing a highly artistic construction. A woman’s
body becomes a sculpted image with ornamental designs across the
midriff and the neck, to evoking stunning features on the runway.
From sculpted pieces to creative feminine creations,
Huishan Zhang’s looks are just as innovative with a special edge
and appeal. The young designer’s début collection includes sophisticated
and fine pieces with a beautiful inspirational feature, deriving
from his homeland China. Many artistically designed pieces portray
detailed calligraphy, boldly reflecting off the soft
and delicate material. Jackets, tops, and flirtatiously short as
well as elegantly long dresses and skirts provoked femininity, with
incredible meticulous features. The elegant mix
of black on white creates an artistically marvellous ambiance that
shines as the light is reflected from afar.