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Lucire: Fashion


The circuit

 

 

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Augustin Teboul showcased his collection in the Salon Dorchester at the Plaza Athénée Hotel

Autumn’s artistic escapes


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Augustin Teboul
The Berlin-based fashion label was born in 2010 when Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul decided to collaborate. The designers presented their collection during Paris Fashion Week at the Salon Dorchester at the Plaza Athénée Hotel, situated on the Avenue Montaigne. With black as their main colour, the designers proved that it can still be lively and alluring. Using an almost baroque aspect, with intricate details and a mix of various materials including leather, wool and tulle, the collection evoked a serenity, mixing modern and traditional features. The collection was introduced as a presentation.

Claudine Ivari


The Parisian-born designer Claudine Ivari has always been passionate about fashion and has come to reveal her enthusiasm of la mode on the runway. The intimately small and luxurious venue situated blocks away from les Champs-Elysées invited a number of guests to the young designer’s first fashion show. A number of pieces were in dark and mysterious black shades with sophisticated designs and refined cuts. The designer chose a fascinating figure to create her collection, the Countess of Castiglione, a high-class aristocratic society figure of the 19th century. She was known for possessing a fascinatingly delightful beauty. Ivari chose to focus her collection on Castiglione’s ever-mystifying and dark moments. Although the colours remained consistent, playing around with both light and darkness, the designs differed with sophisticated offerings, re-creating a fairy-tale collection. Make-up was bold, exemplifying a strong and refined Ivari woman. Delicate materials, intense embroidery and lavishly flowing gowns had the audience yearn for more.

Tsumori Chisato

Japanese fashion designer Tsumori Chisato certainly wowed spectators with her fabulously intricate creations and lavish designs. She had worked with the creative Japanese clothing designer, Issey Miyake in 1977 and, in 1990, she began her own line. Her new season’s collection took place at the Westin Hotel in Paris, in a vast space. A fabulous winter-like canvas served as the background as each look flowed down the runway. The designer played with cuts and created a geometric aspect within each piece. A Chisato woman is allowed to express herself and still feel seductive. Some ensembles were accompanied with dark cat-eye sunglasses with either black or white rims, and others added appeal with a pair of leather gloves. The models were sensual and confident, proving that a fun, expressive look is back in fashion.

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

‘A woman, her posture, her presence,’ read the opening line featured in the brochure distributed to attendees at the Maison Rabih Kayrouz fashion show entitled Waiting.

Taking place at Paris Fashion Week’s main venue, Le Palais de Tokyo, Rabih Kayrouz presented spectacular styles and profound taste. He praises a woman’s every move and brings to life her strong aura, sparking her seductiveness.

The fashion house was established in Paris in 2008. Kayrouz uses vivid colours and creates comfortable pieces; there were knee-high skirts with slits from the waist down, accompanied by geometric sweaters. The Kayrouz woman tends to be independent, showing off her elegance. A large polished brass bracelet accessorized some of the ensembles.

Fátima Lopes

Portuguese designer Fátima Lopes chose to play around with contrast and geometric elements in her new collection. The main colours were black and various shades of blues. Fabrics included leather and suede. There were tightly fitted pants accompanied by tops with rounded shoulders and knee-high skirts and dresses, each piece articulating a woman’s curves. Lopes’s autumn–winter 2013–14 avoids a straight line.

This season, Lopes has more than just a new collection to celebrate: she also has her new fragrance, Be Mine, also launched during Paris Fashion Week. It will be available to the public in September 2013. The scent is, as the name suggests, flirtatious and charming.

Luis Buchinho

The highly successful designer from Portugal brought his fashion expertise to the Parisian runway. Buhinho’s theme revolved around ‘the strong identity of the Portuguese revolution’, also known as the Carnation Revolution, which was a political uprising that began on April 25, 1974. To this day, Freedom Day, April 25, is a national holiday in Portugal. The designer beautifully mixed his culture with his creations, incorporating personal elements. There were dark red on black, and sometimes a slight dab of black on red, while other contrasts brought a mix of black, red and white together for an undeniably sophisticated look. Bold features stood out in each design, revealing an urbane woman who is satisfyingly unafraid to express her artistic self.

Odeeh

Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich are behind the Odeeh fashion brand. Their first collection was presented during Berlin Fashion Week in 2009. Their new collection is simple and easy to wear, with numerous colours. From short trousers to long skirts, the looks provide a comfortable, attractive style.

Kaviar Gauche
The Berlin-based label put on quite a show at the Couvent des Récollets. Kaviar Gauche emerged in 2005, created by Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler. They bring together lavish fabrics and high-end tailoring. Their autumn–winter 2013–14 collection provided a sleek, simple, sophisticated appeal. There were tranquil shades of beige and white and sudden dabs of gold and burgundy, which created an elegant contrast. Flowing, long dresses were sometimes accompanied with short leather tops while a short knee-high dress was matched with a long over-the-shoulder jacket. Other looks included trousers with tops. Feminine and fresh.

Valentin Yudashkin


Russian fashion designer Valentin Yudashkin took us on a journey into a lavish winter wonderland, tucked away in the stunning Hotel Westin in Paris. Each look made a woman practically yearn for the winter season. From light blues and clear whites to glistening silver, Yudashkin’s fabulous creations were absolutely enticing to the eye. The looks were made even more lavish with stunning embroidery, including pearls and crystals, adding a glimmer to the glam. •

 

 

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Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.