Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
selects her favourite autumn–winter 2015–16 looks from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, a season where glimpses of nature shone through the urban settings of the collections
photographed by Dan Lecca, Estrop Barcelona, Dean Neville/BFA NYC, Fuzhong Yang, Ryan Zhou and Rodin Banica
Look: Bold prints along with a slew of colours are what Desigual is all about. The autumn–winter 2015–16 collection is no different. The slogan ‘My gaze followed her’ appeared on the back wall, as models expressed their inner self with pieces that portrayed femininity and self-expression. Exaggerated headdresses added an amusing touch to many ensembles. Multiple colours and elaborateness came to life.
Vibe: The Spanish brand is renowned for its flawless hues and shades to portray a seductive, colourful personality. Models, including Behati Prinsloo and Chantelle Winnie, strutted the party-like runway, laughing and smiling while dancing their way down the catwalk.
Look: The Lie Sangbong collection for autumn–winter is based on the strokes emerging from a paint brush. Entitled Oriental Ink, the beauty of each piece in this collection is highlighted with its sheer elegance: against black, profound brush strokes on the runway and the background wall, each creation metaphorically blossomed into floral radiance. The collection featured an extensive colour palette, from burgundy to white, and leather featured prominently.
Vibe: The atmosphere was serene. Lie collaborated with a New York-based artist, Sun K. Kwak, renowned for her three-dimensional drawings constructed by masking tape. Kwak created the artwork on the runway and surrounding walls.
Look: Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta presented their new season’s collection at an off-site location. Their comfortable and hip looks for men and women emphasized individuality. The designers slightly shied away from a particular inspiration. While some shows worked with Tresemmé for hair, Eckhaus Latta collaborated with Sassoon. Creative Director Michael Forrey styled the hair with a naturally done look featuring a loose, slightly messy ponytail.
Vibe: With a live performance by musician Dev Hynes, the models strutted down the runway surrounded by an artistic downtown atmosphere.
Look: The strong exuberant Angel Sanchez woman cuts an audacious and outgoing figure, expressing her flair. The designer, of Venezuelan descent, accentuated proportion and geometry. The purity of chiffon, the exquisiteness of jacquard and the daring aspect of leather coincided in Sanchez’s vision of traditional elegance with a twist.
Dean Neville/Billy Farrell Agency
Look: The designer’s inspiration derived from the woman attending events in a few major cities including Paris, Tokyo and London: she is seductive and demands attention. The Project Runway finalist is known for his couture, and he stayed true to a classic European vibe. A samurai hairstyle, created by hairstylist Linh Nguyen and her team, gave a sense of force on the catwalk. Costello showed sheer lace hip-hugging gowns, showing plenty of skin through the fabrics, and never mind the deep cleavage and high-slit skirts; these were contrasted with and a few fur jackets. He stuck largely with black, with the models’ bright red lipstick punctuating each ensemble.
Look: Charlotte Ronson’s inspiration comes from a tranquil urban garden. The collection took us back to an era where you could experience the odd garden in the city, spots of greenery sprinkled with subdued autumn leaves. Ronson (right) demonstrated this through sheer olive tops contrasted with burgundy knitted dresses; black-and-white floral prints conveyed how beauty could creep through stark urban landscapes.
Vibe: The highly anticipated presentation attracted a crowd of people. With a dark atmosphere and a small runway in the middle of the venue, the upbeat music, by sister Samantha Ronson, injected a hip, young style.
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Selected team Instagram accounts Jack Yan | Summer Rayne Oakes | Sopheak Seng | Elyse Glickman | Lola Cristall | Jody Miller | Sarah Arnold-Hall | Jamie Dorman | Doug Rimington | Tanya Sooksombatisatian | Paula Sweet