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Olivier Saillant

Paris’s fantastic journeys for autumn–winter

Lola Cristall, having returned to her Paris base, selects her favourite autumn–winter 2015–16 looks from the French capital, where designers took us away from our urban lives to fanciful settings

 


Olivier Saillant

Brasserie Gabrielle was where Chanel transported us. Above The John Galliano collection had distinct art-déco influences

 


Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.

John Galliano





 

Look: John Galliano’s artistic director, Bill Gaytten, revealed the autumn–winter 2015–16 collection, Refined, Redefined, at the Palais de Tokyo, with art-déco influences. Complex embroidery, and fish motifs, appeared throughout. From dashing red to stunning purple, dabs of colour livened up the catwalk. Long coats, high boots and bellowing dresses appeared with undersized hats, sequins and silk scarves.

Chanel





 

Look: Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into the Brasserie Gabrielle, and presented his French Collection, targeted at what he called the ‘new bourgeoisie’. His intent for autumn–winter 2015–16 was to present a ‘very French’ collection, and he did this through the cuts, with narrow and straight skirts, the slight flaring from coats and jackets, and distinctive apron skirts. Tweed, houndstooth and tartan provide the visual complexity, along with the myriad ways one can style the collection; the little black dress comes in an apron style or as a swing dress, with detailing, says Lagerfeld, that has been inspired by waiters’ uniforms.

Vibe: The lavish brasserie set took us back in time, but not one that you can put a finger on. Celebrities present included Florence Welch, Lou Doillon, Li Yu Chun (Chris Lee), Cécile Cassel, Soko, Alma Jodorowsky, Yao Chen, Alessandra Mastronardi, Loan Chabanol, Marie-Ange Casta, and composer Cerrone.





Cesare Paciotti

Look: The Italian luxury brand, distinguished by its dagger logo, is known for their stunning line of leathergoods. Their new shoe collection, entitled Dress Me Up, was presented at the Plaza Athénée. The collection is divided into separate stories: ‘Drama’, ‘’70s Power’, ‘Shock Rock’ and ‘Must Have’. Each category is intended to suit a wearer’s desired taste. The seductive looks permit her to delve into a second skin: from black leather and suede to sharp metallics, the textiles reflect a dazzling sophistication.

 








Cesare Paciotti


Ole Yde



 

Look: Ole Yde put on quite a show at the Mairie du 4ème, in the centre of Paris, where the looks revolved around the tones of elegance. Each ensemble, matched with a pair of Christian Louboutin shoes, successfully met the collection’s aim with a simply cut, radiant collection. Becksöndergaard collaborated with the designer on the handbags and accessories, while Manakas Frankfurt produced the fur pieces. The autumn–winter 2015–16 collection featured metallic touches of gold and silver as well as floral prints; aquamarine and ocean blue added tints of colour.

Vibe: A live pianist’s repertoire gave a classical vibe, complementing the tasteful looks.

next page: Luís Buchinho, Fátima Lopes, Manish Arora, Augustin Teboul

 

 

 

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