Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
Paris editor Lola Cristall journeys to New York to check out the spring–summer 2016 collections, held against the fresh setting of new venues
photographed by Dan and Corina Lecca, Marcelo Soubhia, Marcus Tondo, Estrop Barcelona, Jared Siskin, Rodin Banica, Frazer Harrison, and Rob Kim
The gleaming lights of fashion glistened in New York, at various venues, including MADE at Milk Studios, the vast Moynihan Station, the old post office based mid-town near Penn Station, and Skylight at Clarkson Square, located in Soho. Distinct sites included the Arc and the Dock at Moynihan Station; and the Gallery and the Space at Clarkson Square. The headquarters, situated in the Meatpacking District, gathered invitees to fashion shows and intimate fashion-based talks. With New York Fashion Week out of Lincoln Center, there is a new, fresh ambiance as we took in the spring–summer 2016 collections.
Look: ‘I just want to take you to my world,’ states the show’s opening statement in both French and English. The designer certainly took onlookers on a journey through her magnificently intricate universe, with a Middle Eastern, bohemian look that harked back to the ’60s. Embroidered designs were matched with chiffon, tulle and lace. Paisleys and floral prints, and metallic fabrics and threading, highlighted that this was very much a 21st-century collection despite those glimpses from the past. The designer wants her wearer to seduce with deep V-neck pieces and sheer, silky see-through materials.
Vibe: The Mediterranean ambiance reflected the glamour and allure. The lustrous black polished floor contrasted the glittering metallic fabrics. Light peeked through the Mediterranean window grill placed as the runway’s background.
Dan and Corina Lecca
Look: A ’20s style to the current-day allure of street culture are brought to life on the Vivienne Tam runway, which saw men on the catwalk for the first time. Tam noted that there was a lot of androgyny in her travels, and accommodated accordingly. There are references to the Chinese art-déco period, and laid-back and relaxed looks. Tam hadn’t forgotten her Chinese heritage, with large floral features, fierce dragons and even mahjong patterns. We loved the jackets, the mahjong tops and dresses, and the charm of the whole spring–summer 2016 vision Tam has. Perfect for the season.
Carmen Marc Valvo
Look: Carmen Marc Valvo is prominently known for his chic, feminine looks. He set the scene of a harmonious, natural garden for his spring–summer 2016 collection. Perfectly streaked gelled hair was put into a ballerina bun for all the models, with simple streaks of eyeliner creating a cat-eye effect. Valvo showed long evening gowns with predominantly red, white and black streaks, focusing on bold colours. The use of colour blocking in his cocktail dresses also meant Valvo forecasts a high-impact spring.
Look: Desigual’s collections are known for their lavishly colourful shades and amusingly animated designs. The spring–summer 2016 collection is no exception when it comes to standing out. The theme is based on the interchanging woman, highlighting the aspect of La vida es chula (life is cool). Many of the ensembles were accompanied by platform shoes, as Desigual sees spring emphasizing the vertical. Multicoloured patterns and geometric designs were seen on long hip-hugging cardigans, miniskirts and crop-tops. For a more conventional look, tight pants, short dresses and chic petticoats completed the range. The models’ contemporary headdresses featured mohawk-like headbands and elaborately high turbans—all part of the vertical line that Desigual foresees.
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Selected team Instagram accounts Jack Yan | Summer Rayne Oakes | Sopheak Seng | Elyse Glickman | Lola Cristall | Jody Miller | Sarah Arnold-Hall | Jamie Dorman | Doug Rimington | Tanya Sooksombatisatian | Paula Sweet