Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
Paris editor Lola Cristall journeys to New York to check out the spring–summer 2016 collections, held against the fresh setting of new venues
photographed by Dan and Corina Lecca, Marcelo Soubhia, Marcus Tondo, Estrop Barcelona, Jared Siskin, Rodin Banica, Frazer Harrison, and Rob Kim
The gleaming lights of fashion glistened in New York, at various venues, including MADE at Milk Studios, the vast Moynihan Station, the old post office based mid-town near Penn Station, and Skylight at Clarkson Square, located in Soho. Distinct sites included the Arc and the Dock at Moynihan Station; and the Gallery and the Space at Clarkson Square. The headquarters, situated in the Meatpacking District, gathered invitees to fashion shows and intimate fashion-based talks. With New York Fashion Week out of Lincoln Center, there is a new, fresh ambiance as we took in the spring–summer 2016 collections.
Look: ‘I just want to take you to my world,’ states the show’s opening statement in both French and English. The designer certainly took onlookers on a journey through her magnificently intricate universe, with a Middle Eastern, bohemian look that harked back to the ’60s. Embroidered designs were matched with chiffon, tulle and lace. Paisleys and floral prints, and metallic fabrics and threading, highlighted that this was very much a 21st-century collection despite those glimpses from the past. The designer wants her wearer to seduce with deep V-neck pieces and sheer, silky see-through materials.
Vibe: The Mediterranean ambiance reflected the glamour and allure. The lustrous black polished floor contrasted the glittering metallic fabrics. Light peeked through the Mediterranean window grill placed as the runway’s background.
Dan and Corina Lecca
Look: A ’20s style to the current-day allure of street culture are brought to life on the Vivienne Tam runway, which saw men on the catwalk for the first time. Tam noted that there was a lot of androgyny in her travels, and accommodated accordingly. There are references to the Chinese art-déco period, and laid-back and relaxed looks. Tam hadn’t forgotten her Chinese heritage, with large floral features, fierce dragons and even mahjong patterns. We loved the jackets, the mahjong tops and dresses, and the charm of the whole spring–summer 2016 vision Tam has. Perfect for the season.
Carmen Marc Valvo
Look: Carmen Marc Valvo is prominently known for his chic, feminine looks. He set the scene of a harmonious, natural garden for his spring–summer 2016 collection. Perfectly streaked gelled hair was put into a ballerina bun for all the models, with simple streaks of eyeliner creating a cat-eye effect. Valvo showed long evening gowns with predominantly red, white and black streaks, focusing on bold colours. The use of colour blocking in his cocktail dresses also meant Valvo forecasts a high-impact spring.
Look: Desigual’s collections are known for their lavishly colourful shades and amusingly animated designs. The spring–summer 2016 collection is no exception when it comes to standing out. The theme is based on the interchanging woman, highlighting the aspect of La vida es chula (life is cool). Many of the ensembles were accompanied by platform shoes, as Desigual sees spring emphasizing the vertical. Multicoloured patterns and geometric designs were seen on long hip-hugging cardigans, miniskirts and crop-tops. For a more conventional look, tight pants, short dresses and chic petticoats completed the range. The models’ contemporary headdresses featured mohawk-like headbands and elaborately high turbans—all part of the vertical line that Desigual foresees.
comments powered by Disqus
Related articles hand-picked by our editors
Autumn in the city
Lola Cristall selects her favourite autumn–winter 2015–16 looks from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, a season where glimpses of nature shone through the urban settings of the collections
photographed by Dan Lecca, Estrop Barcelona, Dean Neville/BFA NYC, Fuzhong Yang, Ryan Zhou and Rodin Banica
New York’s back in the sunshine
Lola Cristall chooses her top picks from the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015 runways, resplendent with sharp colours and radiant hues
photographed by Frazer Harrison, Dan Lecca, Randy Brooke and Mike Coppola
From Project to reality
On the eve of showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, Geneviève Hole profiles Project Runway alumna Layana Aguilar
photographed by Javier Mota, Sean Williams and Thomas de Los Santos
from issue 32 of Lucire
Order a print copy
Download the Ipad app
Download the Android app
Download the PDF edition
Watch Lucire TV
|Lucire on social networks
Lucire Facebook fan page
Lucire on Instagram
Lucire on Dailymotion
Lucire on Google Plus
Lucire on Twitter
Lucire on Tumblr
Lucire on Mastodon
Lucire on Pinterest
Lucire on Vkontakte
Selected team Instagram accounts Jack Yan | Summer Rayne Oakes | Sopheak Seng | Elyse Glickman | Lola Cristall | Jody Miller | Sarah Arnold-Hall | Jamie Dorman | Doug Rimington | Tanya Sooksombatisatian | Alex Barrow