Lola Cristall is Paris editor of Lucire.
Lola Cristall looks back at Paris’s autumn–winter 2016–17 shows, where designers tapped into a fierce, strong vibe for the uncertain times ahead
photographed by Marco Severini, Carlo Scarpato, Foto Ugo Camera, and courtesy designers
Jean Claude Jitrois dominated the Parisian fashion scene with trendy leather and fur. The designer embraces a ‘new era’ of ‘social, technological and human revolution’, placing the female at the forefront with the necessary tools to take over the world. Full-fur collars, long princess coats, oversized belts to accentuate the waistline, elbow-high leather gloves, fur boas and a seductive zipped-slit dress convey this power. Jitrois takes what we face in everyday life for inspiration, including ‘joy and seduction’ and ‘fights and journeys.’ Deep red, burgundy and bold blues powerfully project elegance, as leopard prints signal that the wearer is ready take on a fight.
Look: Shown at the Église Saint-Merri, this collection, eerily entitled A Bloody Love Story, borrows from Charles Baudlaire’s poem ‘The Death of Lovers’, with colourful depictions of romantic scenery, with blazing shades of blue and red. Designer Axelle Migé painted a picture of a modernized Renaissance and the myth of forbidden love. Gold masks shielded each wearer’s face as part of this story. Metallic gold adorned a number of the pure white pieces, as æsthetically placed stains on fabrics. Off-the-shoulder dresses, ring collars, precise drapery, asymmetrically cut fabrics and elegant layering came into play. Metallic gold, shimmering red, pure white and intense black link love, death and a virtual awakening.
Trapstar × Puma
Look: Trapstar, a London-based streetwear clothing name brand, and Puma collaborated to present their capsule collection, with hair by Conrad Dornan and make-up by Michelle Webb. With a funky street-style look, the Trapstar founders (Mike, Lee and Will) contribute to the world of fashion with their take on lifestyle wear and sport-like creations based on their concept, ‘A star is trapped within everyone.’ Menswear and womenswear collections are creative and eye-catching combining leather jackets, hooded tops, knee-revealing pants, an asymmetrical one-sided draped skirt and long-sleeved midriff-exposing top. Hues of metallic red, grey, black and olive green portray subtle tones on the catwalk.
Vibe: The brand’s unconventionally hip ensembles are contemporary, taking centre-stage at La Laboratoire.
With a theme revolving around punk rock and street style at the Grand Palais, the looks are enticing, vivid and vibrant. Details include knee-high leather boots, cross-body bags, banded pant waistlines, short silk leg-revealing dresses, a one-shouldered asymmetrical seamed top, and tight leather hip-hugging ensembles. Hues of emerald green, bold red, loud purple and black accentuated its creativity. Make-up was kept simple with black eyeliner being the most noticeable. Independent and audacious, the Barbara Bui wearer is devoted to her classy, yet fierce look.
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Selected team Instagram accounts Jack Yan | Summer Rayne Oakes | Sopheak Seng | Elyse Glickman | Lola Cristall | Jody Miller | Sarah Arnold-Hall | Jamie Dorman | Doug Rimington | Tanya Sooksombatisatian | Alex Barrow