The end of convention

Nicholas K.

The Built fom Scratch collection incor­porates a ’90s feel, celebrating the decade and defining it as a liberating and a highly diverse period. We saw draped dresses, off-the-shoulder tunics, long-sleeved capes and high-collared jackets. Footwear ranged from ankle boots or knee-highs with bold accessories and fashion-statement head­pieces. Nicholas and Christopher Kunz explored a contemporary take on fashion, and the boldness suggested they expect cus­tomers to make a statement this autumn.

Taoray Wang

Chief design officer of Taoray Wang, Wang Tao, beautifully combines modern chic with trendy classic. The designer’s autumn–winter 2017–18 collection is inspired by Qing Dynasty entities, as depicted today. There is an east-meets-west concept, as well as the fusing of different time periods. The designer transforms men’s suits into feminine ensembles. Knee-high platform boots are matched with a wrap jacket, an asymmetric, leg-revealing black skirt is accompanied by a pure white balloon-sleeved top, and a long rolled-up sleeve jacket shows off arms as it flows down the runway. This was a considerably stronger collection, and shows that such a strong Chinese inspiration can result in something that’s internationally appealing. Stereotypes were conspicuously absent, thankfully.

Vivienne Tam

Dan Lecca

Vivienne Tam’s fall collection reflected Hong Kong’s beauty and influence. As the show was about to begin, the massive backdrop showed recurring images from Hong Kong’s bustling scenery. The city’s bright lights and vibrant energy were depicted on the catwalk. Asymmetrical dresses, bishop or circular flounce sleeves, as well as peplum tops delicately accentuated each silhouette, with an avant-garde effect. Straight ruffled collars, turtlenecks and plunging necklines are among the details; fabrics included vegan leather, wool, silk, cotton, velour and mohair. Hong Kong’s metropolitan nature was translated into metallics, neon prints and bright colours. •