Held off-site in a cavernous warehouse in Waterloo, Ellery had us waiting outside in the cold and crowding the street for an hour and a half. Thoughtfully, handsome waiters were sent out bearing trays of Absolut vodka cocktails to keep us entertained.
   The collection was full of detail and featured near-knicker-exposing skirt lengths, strong Balmain-inspired military shoulders, nipped-in waists decorated with thin patent belts, and masses of fine gold chain tasselling adorning pockets, shoulders and breasts. Heavy upholstery cloth was used to create volume and sculpture, contrasted with sheer fabrics in chiffon and surprisingly sexy blue lace.
   The hair was beautifully done in a mock Alice Dellal style, with a French plait running from one ear around the back of the head to give the illusion of it being short on one side. The make-up was exciting, with beautiful peach toned lips and Cleopatra eyes.

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   The jodhpur–harem trend was inescapable, but Ellery gave the feminine folds a tough-girl twist with light chains and heavy gold zips.

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   In an ironic move due to the timing of the recent Miss Universe New Zealand, the show had a pageant theme running through. The final models came out in sashes and bearing bouquets.

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   The shoes are worth mentioning—and adding to your wardrobe. My favourite was the clear Perspex booties, extra-sassy with their gold block heel detail, and looking suspiciously like a lipstick in its case.—Bronwyn Williams

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