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September 30, 2010

Why some of our videos might disappear

Jack Yan/12.31

As of October 1, some of our archived videos on the Lucire website will disappear.
   For some years, we’ve hosted some of our videos on a site called Vox (vox.com), as I kept a personal blog there, too. There were some crossovers between the sites, and Vox had a pretty good policy on hosting content.
   However, that policy had been abused by everyone from Indian escort agencies to Russian sploggers. Vox itself proved to be unreliable in 2009: by the fourth quarter I was effectively locked out from it, and Vox’s own techs were unable to figure out why. Two of my friends had similar problems.
   So it was with no surprise that Six Apart, Vox’s owners, said it would kill the website—but they only gave us a few weeks to shift our content.
   The initial export to Typepad, also owned by Six Apart, was buggy, but their techs figured out the problems there—so at least a lot of my images and videos are preserved. I’m very grateful for that.
   Meanwhile, one of the export functions for videos that they had was to Flickr, but, as many of you know, Flickr limits videos to the first 90 seconds. As we have located a new host to carry our video content from October, I made the call to not export the content to Flickr. I could not be assured that the coding we used here would link properly to Flickr, anyway. (Some of the earlier Vox code had already failed to work for our oldest video entries here.) It would have taken a long time to recode all the affected pages.
   Therefore, if you spot blank spaces where there were once videos, it’s not your browser: it’s us and our decision.
   We’re hoping for a much longer relationship with our new video host, so that this issue will not recur. We hope that this change will not affect your enjoyment of our site too much, especially with future videos that we put up.

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Filed under: Lucire, publishing, TV

Roberto Cavalli, Elena Santarelli and Karolína Kurková launch Dea glasses

Lucire staff/10.29

Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli
Above Roberto Cavalli, flanked by Elena Santarelli and Karolína Kurková at the launch—both with and without sunglasses.

Roberto Cavalli
Above Edoardo Tabacchi, Franca dall’Ara (Salmoiraghi & Viganò), Roberto Cavalli, and Maurizio Marcolin.

Roberto Cavalli
Above Roberto Cavalli and Karolína Kurková.

Roberto Cavalli
Above One of the two Roberto Cavalli Dea designs, commemorating his 40th anniversary.

Roberto Cavalli, celebrating his label’s 40th anniversary, has released a new eyewear collection with Italian optical chain Salmoiraghi & Viganò, entitled Dea (goddess in Italian).
   The September 25 première was held at the Salmoiraghi & Viganò flagship store at the piazza San Babila in Milano, where Roberto Cavalli, Karolína Kurková and Elena Santarelli, welcomed the many guests.
   The Dea glasses, produced by Marcolin, will be available exclusively at selected Salmoiraghi & Viganò outlets until mid-October 2010.
   The design incorporates the latest technology, and pay tribute to the Roberto Cavalli brand with a python leather effect on the frames. There are two variants: a warm, rose gold combined with a leather ivory snakeskin effect, and a cooler white model, combined with blue lenses and flash effects.
   The words ‘Special Edition’ subtly appear on the frames. Limited to 2,000 pieces, each frame features its own number.

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September 29, 2010

Goldwell, Gaia Jewellery show holiday-season ideas

Lucire staff/10.02

Wayne Cooper for Goldwell
Goldwell and Wayne Cooper have collaborated on four gift packs for Christmas, for those who want to take great care of their hair. These limited-edition gift packs feature products from the Goldwell Dualsenses and Kerasilk ranges.
   The Dualsenses Travel Pack (NZ$19·90) features 100 ml shampoo and 75 ml conditioner, available in Color, Color Extra Rich, Rich Repair and Ultra Volume.
   The Dualsenses Duo Pack (NZ$34·90) has shampoo and conditioner, both 300 ml, also available in Color, Color Extra Rich, Rich Repair and Ultra Volume.
   The Dualsenses Trio Pack (NZ$45·90) is the same as the Duo but adds a 200 ml 60-Second Treatment. Available in Color Extra Rich, Rich Repair and Ultra Volume.
   Finally, the Kerasilk Duo Pack (NZ$34·90) has a 250 ml shampoo and a 225 ml treatment 225 ml, available in Rich Care and Ultra Rich Care.
   These will be available from October 1 at Goldwell salons—call 0800 567-465 to locate your nearest one.
Sara Muntz
Sara MuntzSara Muntz

   For those who might like a less conventional gift, Queenstown jeweller Sara Muntz has launched her Woodland Menagerie collection, inspired by a Discovery Channel series on Russian woodland creatures.
   Items include the Tobin Squirrel pendant (NZ$190), the Thomasina pendant (NZ$220) and Thomasina ring (NZ$200).
   Each piece is hand-crated, with the designs cast in sterling silver and copper. Sara Muntz’s Gaia Jewellery website is located at www.gaia-jewellery.com.

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September 28, 2010

Starfish champions ethical fashion at Fashion Week

Sopheak Seng/21.41

Starfish Starfish Starfish Starfish
Eco-fashion heroine Laurie Foon launched New Zealand Fashion Week with its first ethical fashion show, showcasing the Starfish autumn–winter ’11 collection, Seven Sisters.
   Seven Sisters pays homage the idea of strong women, the relationships and bonds formed between sisters, women, clothing and individual style and fashion interpretations.
   Nods to the classic ’50s and rebellious ’80s collide in a unique fusion of the Starfish signature. Cinched-in waists, full-volume skirts, and strong shoulders create bold yet feminine silhouettes.
   Jersey and silk are paired together to create relaxed elegant clothing, making the wearer feel beautiful.
   Favourite pieces for the collections were the array of tailored and relaxed jackets. Caped back, classic tailored and bomber jackets were all given equal catwalk space. These were often matched with jersey trousers cut in a relaxed jodphur-esque shapes or full box pleated skirts.
   A show-stopper was the second outfit of the show, the White Lie wrap dress, a gorgeous and elegant dress that skimmed the floor in a creamy caramel offset with a specially designed rose print by Wellington textile designer Greta Menzies.
   The colours that featured in the collection were not your typical winter colours: putty, coral pinks, violet, navy, military green and grey were on show. Hand-stitched embroideries of roses and Savile Row-inspired top-stitching also featured as quirky quintessential Starfish touches.
   Also making a global début was a new fabric constructed from a rare breed of alpaca called Suri. Developed right here in New Zealand, it featured in a floor-skimming dress and dramatic cape.
   Again the autumn–winter collection saw the continuation of Laurie’s love of all things organic and natural with most of the garments made in hemp silk, modal, merino, organic cotton and denim. Each garment as always has been lovingly made in New Zealand and dyed to the Öko-Tex Standard.
   A pioneer, Laurie has always been a believer in the cause of making fashion that is environmentally friendly while still being stylish. This year’s selection to open Fashion Week is a testament to her 17-year career as an eco-fashion warrior and how far the industry has come in recognizing that we all need to make a difference.—Sopheak Seng

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Diana Vickers to headline opening day at Britain’s Next Top Model Live

Lucire staff/15.33

Diana VickersSinger–songwriter Diana Vickers will headline opening day at Britain’s Next Top Model Live on Friday, October 22, at London’s Excel Centre.
   Vickers will perform two three-song sets on the Kiss Open Catwalk, and will include her hit singles ‘Once’ and ‘The Boy Who Murdered Love’ from her album Songs from the Tainted Cherry Tree, and her brand new single ‘My Wicked Heart’.
   The Kiss Open Catwalk is a dedicated area within the 16,000 ft² event, which will see a selection of high fashion, music, Kiss DJ sets, and entertainment features alongside hair and make-up demonstrations, and energetic catwalk displays from a range of brands and designers.
   The event will run for three days until Sunday, October 24, and over 45,000 visitors are expected.
   Emma Willis was announced last week as the host of the event, along with the contestants of series 6. Other celebrities will be announced in due course.
   Tickets can be purchased via www.bntmlive.com/ticket-information/. A standard ticket is £18 and includes entry to the event and a seat within the main catwalk; a premium ticket is £25, which includes entry into the event, premium seat within the main catwalk show and show guide; and a VIP ticket is £39, giving you entry, VIP seats in BNTML Catwalk, show guide, VIP goody bag and entry into VIP lounge. Opening times are now 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Friday and 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

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September 27, 2010

Miromoda gets stronger for autumn–winter ’11

Sopheak Seng/2.43

Miromoda’s catwalk show is in its second year at New Zealand Fashion Week. From the comments of those waiting in line to get into the tents, it was worth waiting a week to see and is always awe-inspiring and innovative. The selection of winners chosen to showcase at this year’s presentation was the best to date. The seven designers were chosen from the Māori fashion board, where Lucire publisher Jack Yan was a judge this year.
   A lone violinist (Adam Maha) appeared in feathered korowai playing the violin while a dancer painted like a bird pirouetted (by Caroline Viesnik) around the catwalk and opened the show.
   Every collection stood out for their use of ingenious cut, fabrication and style.

MiromodaMiromoda
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Favourites from this year’s selection would have to be Blaire Archibald’s collection entitled Matua (above), a menswear collection inspired by his great grandfather’s love of rugby and the team he played for. Postwar, 1940s menswear silhouettes were shown in a colour palette of brown, beige, moss green and white. Pleated pants cuffed and rolled were matched with perfectly tailored collarless shirts. It was an amazing interpretation of menswear for New Zealand and it was clear why he was this year’s winner in the emerging designer category.

Miromoda
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Runner-up in the same category, Adrienne Whitewood (left), had cameras and Iphones flashing from the moment her first piece came on. An exploration of cut, and drape was evident in showing off her technical capabilities. Each piece totally wearable and luxurious to look at: laser-cut velvets, linens, draped silks and merinos were all on show in dark and moody ink blues, black and burnt sienna. The real standout of the collection were the perfectly matched copper accessories, handcrafted, beaten and wound to form coils for necklaces and cuffs that hinted at the big tribal trend for the season.

Miromoda
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Miromoda
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Haute couture winner Ana Hau showed an Asia–Pacific-inspired collection with kimono-sleeved tapestry jackets (above) and form-fitting dresses. Runner-up Shona Tawhiao (right) showed modern warrior women in hand-dyed and woven harakeke in armour-like corsets, skirts and top hats.


MiromodaMiromoda
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   T-shirt winner Amber Bridgman’s superhero-inspired collection weaved western and Māori symbols to create quirky designs (above left). Kereama Taepa’s collection (above right) brought smiles to many in the tents with his cheeky yellow smiley face prints featuring traditional moko motifs around the mouths and digital Pac-man-style print leggings.
   If this is the calibre of work from this year’s competition, we look forward to seeing what the following years will be showing.—Sopheak Seng

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September 26, 2010

Hair at Stolen Girlfriends’ Club and Huffer: behind the scenes

Lucire staff/2.24

Our friend, Greg Murrell of Ryder Salon, for KMS California, directed the hairstyling at the Stolen Girlfriends’ Club autumn–winter 2011 show, entitled Last Night’s Party.
   We’ve got our hands on the notes for the show that were issued to the media, which gives a bit more of the behind-the-scenes thinking to the collection.
KMS California for Stolen Girlfriends' Club
KMS California for Stolen Girlfriends' Club
KMS California for Stolen Girlfriends' Club
The theme for this show revolves around the aftermath of a great night out. Stolen Girlfriends’ designer Marc Moore has created a collection which features a lot of angelic, floaty, sheer layering contrasted with punky, gothic accessories such as studded chokers. This idea of contrasts follows through in the collection’s signature yardage print of cigarette butts and hydrangea flowers. Low rent mixed with sweetness.
   Show stylist Zara Mirkin called for hair-styling that was simple and clean looking from a frontal perspective owing to the complexity of the clothing and styling yet would also incorporate the contradictory thematical aspects evident elsewhere in the collection. It was therefore decided that the hair could have a different feel at the back of the head as though the model had slept on their party hair from the previous night. Accessories such as plastic cigarette butts and fresh flowers were then to be placed randomly in the hair.
   To begin the female look, the hair texture was loosely relaxed in a very natural manner with flat-irons so that it did not look wavy or perfectly straight.
   The hair is centre-parted and sectioned from a couple of inches back from the front hairline to behind the ears on either side of the head.
   In small subsections, this hair was brushed firmly to the scalp with a bristle brush and then sprayed with KMS California Hair-Stay Medium Hold Hairspray on every section to fix it close to the head and behind the ears. This frontal area was then sprayed with Silksheen Gloss Spray for extra contrast.
   At the back of the head a square section about 3 in deep and the width of the head wide is taken below the crown. This area was texture set by light back-brushing and following this with flat-irons in a very loose manner. This created a tizzy dissonance contrasting with the sleekness evident at the front of the look.
   This was brushed out and KMS California Dry Wax was liberally sprayed into the hair and the hair was styled with the fingers to simulate a pillow-rub effect.
   To finish, various plastic cigarettes and fresh flowers were individually attached in the hair to suit the model and to complete the look.
   For the male look, any curl or wave texture was relaxed in the hair to match their female counterparts. The models with shorter length hair were styled very individually in a manner that reflected their own hairstyle and models with longer hair had this pulled back into a looped unfinished ponytail at the nape of the head with loose pieces pulled out from the top front hairline to loosen the look up. KMS California Dry Wax was sprayed on the top surface of the hair for texture to finish.

   Murrell also worked on the hair at Huffer’s autumn–winter 2011 collection, Into the Unknown.
KMS California for Huffer
KMS California for Huffer
KMS California for Huffer
The feeling for this collection was inspired by American college fraternities and sororities. The women’s collection from Aimée MacFarlane features a colour palette of neutrals with splashes of detail such as knitted animal prints.
   The brief from show stylist Rachael Churchward for the women’s hair was a simple, dishevelled look that animated the essence of the collection. A look that captured the freedom of fraternity life. The hair texture is straightened loosely but allowed to be flyaway and affixed at the nape with pins so as not to be as tightly controlled as a ponytail. Fabric bows are then attached at the nape to complete the look.
   The men’s hair is either long, relaxed and loose or cut very short , strong and military-like. The men’s clothing features sorority-like patches to suggest that they look like a gang but there is also an element of English street culture about the clothing styling.
   To begin, the hair is loosely relaxed with a flat iron in such a manner that it does not take all of the movement out of the hair.
   Next, pins are placed in vertically at the nape in a row of about 8 of them. This pulls the hair to the neck but doesn’t make it compress like a ponytail.
   A fabric bow is pinned to the nape over the top of the previous pinning and the hair is sprayed liberally with KMS California Dry Wax for a flexible, matt hold and pulled with the ends of the fingers to loosen it and create a flyaway texture.
   KMS California Hair-Stay Medium Hold Hairspray will be used if needed for extra hold depending on weather conditions as the show is being held outdoors.
The men’s hair is styled to suit with KMS California Clay Creme for a Matt texture.

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More from New Zealand Fashion Week’s autumn–winter ’11 collections

Sopheak Seng/0.39

New heights
World
WorldWorld
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

The World autumn–winter 2011 show—Wasted Days, Wasted Nights—was simply a visual treat. Held at the Langham Hotel’s Great Room, high tea was served for those that attended the show. The collection held true to what the label is famous for: bold colour, eclectic fabric combinations and a fine dose of quirkiness. Male models got in touch with their feminine side as they sashayed down the runway wearing get-ups such as a fuchsia-coloured coat, candy-hued pinstripe suits and bowties—most accessorized with giant multi-coloured polka dotted umbrellas. Structural details such as heavy ruffles, fringing and the quilted stitch in bold hues of canary yellow, shocking pink and emerald green were all an integral part of the womenswear. Highlights of the show would have to be the clever use of plastic to create immaculately tailored blazers and coats, as well as Swarovski crystal-covered shoes, sunnies and men’s pocket squares—simply divine!—Uma Lele

Back to school
Twenty-Seven NamesTwenty-Seven Names
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above Twenty-Seven Names took schoolgirl (and schoolboy) inspirations for its autumn–winter 2011 designs.

It was back to school for Twenty-Seven Names’ autumn–winter 2011 collection, entitled Fearsome Five. School uniforms were the basis of this collection, with smocks, shirts, school blazers and letterman jackets the star features, all done with a light touch and a slightly rebellious feel to them. Shown in a muted colour palette of beige, white, black, and blue, and mixed with fabrics in belvet, silks, cottons, florals, stripes and dots, this was the best collection to date from local Wellington girls Anjali Stewart and Rachel Easting. Your school uniform has never looked this hot.

Back from the Bund
Scent of a Peony was, as always, beautifully constructed and designed by the very talented Liz Mitchell. Inspiration from the collection came from her travels to Shanghai and old Chinese paintings of flowers, particularly peonies, chosen by Mitchell for their full blown beauty while still being delicate and feminine.
   Sultry cheongsam were fashioned from metallic lace in dove grey, peony pink, fuchsia purple and luxurious black. Fortunay-inspired pleated and draping were formed into ball gowns fit to dance wartime blues away while military jackets and ’40s shoulder detailing completed the wartime elegance.

Whiri
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

On the street
Whiri showed a collection of wearable streetwear pieces based on kaakahu (traditional Māori cloak) and te moko. Basket-woven cottons and wools were fashioned into skirts and featured on jackets in shoulder details. Draped peplum dresses were shown along with great knitwear pieces. Standouts of the collection were definitely the printed leggings using designs based in Māori culture, but featuring bold orange, accents of yellow and navy blue. This was a celebration of culture and the richness found in identity.



Mena
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

In the tropics
Mena showed tropical palm prints in fuchsia, grey, black, turquoise and green in resort-inspired clothes, halters, strapless dresses and kaftans. These were all pieces designed for sipping maitais by the pool while looking effortlessly cool.



Turet KnüfermannTuret Knüfermann
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Left Turet Knüfermann went darker than usual for autumn–winter 2011, but lightened up her collection toward the end with her trade-mark silks.

Tied to style
Turet Knüfermann went dark and edgy this show season with leather, fur and almost bondage-inspired pieces. Leggings and pants were a key look for the coming winter from Knüfermann, as were her leather pieced dresses and capes. Lightness came at the end of the tunnel when Knüfermann’s trade-mark silks were draped to fall off the body. Flowing and diaphanous, they recalled Madame Grès’ and Vionnet’s skill in working on the bias and draping. Colours were muted again in the colours on everyone’s lips: camel, deep purple, fuschia, steel grey and oil-slick black.


Matchi MotchiMatchi Motchi
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Close encounters
Matchi Motchi’s head designer Mingwei Lei went galactic for autumn–winter 2011. Models came out in puffed and quilted silver jackets, draped and chunky knitwear (Lei’s signature), alongside the couture-like alien-esque garments. Beautifully crafted, each piece of the collection was a work of art: pieced leather with zips running along seams to form sleeves, and up legs of trousers and tights. A tooled leather dress cut from triangular pieces sewn together to fall off the body hit slight notes of space-age dominatrix without being vulgar.
   Make-up by Smashbox added to the whole space-age look, with blocked-out brows and powder-white foreheads running into pompadour teased quiffs.



Saloon chic
Annah StrettonAnnah StrettonAnnah Stretton
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above We liked the direction Annah Stretton in which she took her autumn–winter 2011 show.

Annah Stretton goes all saloon chic for autumn–winter 2011 with ruffles-a-go-go.
   With a colour palette of acid yellow, chambre blue, crimson, dove grey and mushroom, Stretton took guests down to the local saloon for an outing.
   There were long maxi-skirts paired with knitted cardigans cinched in with rope belts, corsets in plaids and acid checks with matching ruffled can-can minis. All were topped off with a jauntily placed straw hat!
   Devoure velvets, silks, cottons and lace were all shown, many with frills and ruffles a-plenty.
   This was a light-handed touch for Stretton, who is normally known for her theatrical shows. She stripped it all away this season to show just the clothes and it made for a nice change.

Michelle YvetteMichelle Yvette
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above The heroines of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950s’ movies served as a base inspiration for Michelle Yvette.

A hat-tippi to grace
With Hitchcock heroines as inspiration, Michelle Yvette took us to a world where women dressed like women.
   ’Forties- and early-’fifties-inspired silhouettes were shown in beautifully tailored and constructed jackets and dresses, nipped in at the waist to show off the curves of a woman, with raised shoulder detailing. Cheeky lingerie-ruffled lace panties were shown in full glory, emphasizing the sexiness of the femme fatale.
   Colours for the season included scarlet red, Jaffa orange, mustard, Dior grey, the colour of the season—mushroom—and midnight black, all to lure in your prey.
   Models also wore bespoke hats by Wellington milliner Amy Jansen-Leen. Feathers of goose, pheasant, turkey and marabou were worn in vintage-inspired hats, most shown with veiling studded in Swarovski crystals to play peek-a-boo with your sultry eyes.

Bibliostyle
SalasaiSalasaiSalasai
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above Salasai made librarians sexy for autumn–winter 2011.

Geeky librarian chic was the call of the day from label Salasai as chunky woven knits and colour-blocked jackets, pants, dresses and skirts were paraded down the runway. Colour came in the form of a green pastured landscape set against a blue sky and a dash of teal.
   A favourite of the collection were skirts for men, either kilt-length or touching the floor, pleated, draped and finished with leather buckles.—Sopheak Seng

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