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More from New Zealand Fashion Week’s autumn–winter ’11 collections


NEWS
Filed by Sopheak Seng/September 26, 2010/0.39


New heights
World
WorldWorld
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

The World autumn–winter 2011 show—Wasted Days, Wasted Nights—was simply a visual treat. Held at the Langham Hotel’s Great Room, high tea was served for those that attended the show. The collection held true to what the label is famous for: bold colour, eclectic fabric combinations and a fine dose of quirkiness. Male models got in touch with their feminine side as they sashayed down the runway wearing get-ups such as a fuchsia-coloured coat, candy-hued pinstripe suits and bowties—most accessorized with giant multi-coloured polka dotted umbrellas. Structural details such as heavy ruffles, fringing and the quilted stitch in bold hues of canary yellow, shocking pink and emerald green were all an integral part of the womenswear. Highlights of the show would have to be the clever use of plastic to create immaculately tailored blazers and coats, as well as Swarovski crystal-covered shoes, sunnies and men’s pocket squares—simply divine!—Uma Lele

Back to school
Twenty-Seven NamesTwenty-Seven Names
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above Twenty-Seven Names took schoolgirl (and schoolboy) inspirations for its autumn–winter 2011 designs.

It was back to school for Twenty-Seven Names’ autumn–winter 2011 collection, entitled Fearsome Five. School uniforms were the basis of this collection, with smocks, shirts, school blazers and letterman jackets the star features, all done with a light touch and a slightly rebellious feel to them. Shown in a muted colour palette of beige, white, black, and blue, and mixed with fabrics in belvet, silks, cottons, florals, stripes and dots, this was the best collection to date from local Wellington girls Anjali Stewart and Rachel Easting. Your school uniform has never looked this hot.

Back from the Bund
Scent of a Peony was, as always, beautifully constructed and designed by the very talented Liz Mitchell. Inspiration from the collection came from her travels to Shanghai and old Chinese paintings of flowers, particularly peonies, chosen by Mitchell for their full blown beauty while still being delicate and feminine.
   Sultry cheongsam were fashioned from metallic lace in dove grey, peony pink, fuchsia purple and luxurious black. Fortunay-inspired pleated and draping were formed into ball gowns fit to dance wartime blues away while military jackets and ’40s shoulder detailing completed the wartime elegance.

Whiri
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

On the street
Whiri showed a collection of wearable streetwear pieces based on kaakahu (traditional Māori cloak) and te moko. Basket-woven cottons and wools were fashioned into skirts and featured on jackets in shoulder details. Draped peplum dresses were shown along with great knitwear pieces. Standouts of the collection were definitely the printed leggings using designs based in Māori culture, but featuring bold orange, accents of yellow and navy blue. This was a celebration of culture and the richness found in identity.


Mena
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

In the tropics
Mena showed tropical palm prints in fuchsia, grey, black, turquoise and green in resort-inspired clothes, halters, strapless dresses and kaftans. These were all pieces designed for sipping maitais by the pool while looking effortlessly cool.


Turet KnüfermannTuret Knüfermann
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Left Turet Knüfermann went darker than usual for autumn–winter 2011, but lightened up her collection toward the end with her trade-mark silks.

Tied to style
Turet Knüfermann went dark and edgy this show season with leather, fur and almost bondage-inspired pieces. Leggings and pants were a key look for the coming winter from Knüfermann, as were her leather pieced dresses and capes. Lightness came at the end of the tunnel when Knüfermann’s trade-mark silks were draped to fall off the body. Flowing and diaphanous, they recalled Madame Grès’ and Vionnet’s skill in working on the bias and draping. Colours were muted again in the colours on everyone’s lips: camel, deep purple, fuschia, steel grey and oil-slick black.

Matchi MotchiMatchi Motchi
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Close encounters
Matchi Motchi’s head designer Mingwei Lei went galactic for autumn–winter 2011. Models came out in puffed and quilted silver jackets, draped and chunky knitwear (Lei’s signature), alongside the couture-like alien-esque garments. Beautifully crafted, each piece of the collection was a work of art: pieced leather with zips running along seams to form sleeves, and up legs of trousers and tights. A tooled leather dress cut from triangular pieces sewn together to fall off the body hit slight notes of space-age dominatrix without being vulgar.
   Make-up by Smashbox added to the whole space-age look, with blocked-out brows and powder-white foreheads running into pompadour teased quiffs.



Saloon chic
Annah StrettonAnnah StrettonAnnah Stretton
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above We liked the direction Annah Stretton in which she took her autumn–winter 2011 show.

Annah Stretton goes all saloon chic for autumn–winter 2011 with ruffles-a-go-go.
   With a colour palette of acid yellow, chambre blue, crimson, dove grey and mushroom, Stretton took guests down to the local saloon for an outing.
   There were long maxi-skirts paired with knitted cardigans cinched in with rope belts, corsets in plaids and acid checks with matching ruffled can-can minis. All were topped off with a jauntily placed straw hat!
   Devoure velvets, silks, cottons and lace were all shown, many with frills and ruffles a-plenty.
   This was a light-handed touch for Stretton, who is normally known for her theatrical shows. She stripped it all away this season to show just the clothes and it made for a nice change.

Michelle YvetteMichelle Yvette
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above The heroines of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950s’ movies served as a base inspiration for Michelle Yvette.

A hat-tippi to grace
With Hitchcock heroines as inspiration, Michelle Yvette took us to a world where women dressed like women.
   ’Forties- and early-’fifties-inspired silhouettes were shown in beautifully tailored and constructed jackets and dresses, nipped in at the waist to show off the curves of a woman, with raised shoulder detailing. Cheeky lingerie-ruffled lace panties were shown in full glory, emphasizing the sexiness of the femme fatale.
   Colours for the season included scarlet red, Jaffa orange, mustard, Dior grey, the colour of the season—mushroom—and midnight black, all to lure in your prey.
   Models also wore bespoke hats by Wellington milliner Amy Jansen-Leen. Feathers of goose, pheasant, turkey and marabou were worn in vintage-inspired hats, most shown with veiling studded in Swarovski crystals to play peek-a-boo with your sultry eyes.

Bibliostyle
SalasaiSalasaiSalasai
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Above Salasai made librarians sexy for autumn–winter 2011.

Geeky librarian chic was the call of the day from label Salasai as chunky woven knits and colour-blocked jackets, pants, dresses and skirts were paraded down the runway. Colour came in the form of a green pastured landscape set against a blue sky and a dash of teal.
   A favourite of the collection were skirts for men, either kilt-length or touching the floor, pleated, draped and finished with leather buckles.—Sopheak Seng

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