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Miromoda gets stronger for autumn–winter ’11

Filed by Sopheak Seng/September 27, 2010/2.43

Miromoda’s catwalk show is in its second year at New Zealand Fashion Week. From the comments of those waiting in line to get into the tents, it was worth waiting a week to see and is always awe-inspiring and innovative. The selection of winners chosen to showcase at this year’s presentation was the best to date. The seven designers were chosen from the Māori fashion board, where Lucire publisher Jack Yan was a judge this year.
   A lone violinist (Adam Maha) appeared in feathered korowai playing the violin while a dancer painted like a bird pirouetted (by Caroline Viesnik) around the catwalk and opened the show.
   Every collection stood out for their use of ingenious cut, fabrication and style.

Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Favourites from this year’s selection would have to be Blaire Archibald’s collection entitled Matua (above), a menswear collection inspired by his great grandfather’s love of rugby and the team he played for. Postwar, 1940s menswear silhouettes were shown in a colour palette of brown, beige, moss green and white. Pleated pants cuffed and rolled were matched with perfectly tailored collarless shirts. It was an amazing interpretation of menswear for New Zealand and it was clear why he was this year’s winner in the emerging designer category.

Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Runner-up in the same category, Adrienne Whitewood (left), had cameras and Iphones flashing from the moment her first piece came on. An exploration of cut, and drape was evident in showing off her technical capabilities. Each piece totally wearable and luxurious to look at: laser-cut velvets, linens, draped silks and merinos were all on show in dark and moody ink blues, black and burnt sienna. The real standout of the collection were the perfectly matched copper accessories, handcrafted, beaten and wound to form coils for necklaces and cuffs that hinted at the big tribal trend for the season.

Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   Haute couture winner Ana Hau showed an Asia–Pacific-inspired collection with kimono-sleeved tapestry jackets (above) and form-fitting dresses. Runner-up Shona Tawhiao (right) showed modern warrior women in hand-dyed and woven harakeke in armour-like corsets, skirts and top hats.

Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

   T-shirt winner Amber Bridgman’s superhero-inspired collection weaved western and Māori symbols to create quirky designs (above left). Kereama Taepa’s collection (above right) brought smiles to many in the tents with his cheeky yellow smiley face prints featuring traditional moko motifs around the mouths and digital Pac-man-style print leggings.
   If this is the calibre of work from this year’s competition, we look forward to seeing what the following years will be showing.—Sopheak Seng

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