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January 31, 2011

Film composer John Barry, the man behind the James Bond sound, dies

Jack Yan/10.06

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Film score composer John Barry, OBE has died in New York of a heart attack, we have learned, aged 77.
   Born John Barry Prendergast in 1933 in York, his father was an impresario who owned cinemas in the area. Barry once told the story of how, as a child, he went into the projection room, and saw a large black-and-white mouse on the screen. He soon learned how to operate the projector and it was, as he told it, in this environment that his love for music and film developed.
   The young John Barry Prendergast took lessons from Dr Francis Jackson of York Minster and Bill Russo, who had arranged for Stan Kenton.
   In the 1950s, after demobbing, he formed a band, the John Barry Seven, beginning with gigs around York, but gaining national fame. EMI were suitably impressed that he was hired to compose and arrange for other artists, as well as releasing the Seven’s own work. He met Adam Faith, and worked with him on numerous successful numbers, and when Faith was hired to lead in Beat Girl, Barry was asked to score the film, securing his break in the business that he wanted to be in.
   After some more successes that showed Barry’s diversity and style, he was approached by United Artists Music to work on the score for Dr No, the first cinematic James Bond adventure. It was through the Bond films—Barry scored 11 of them, up to The Living Daylights in 1987—that the composer made his name and arguably gained his most of his fans, the writer included, but that would be overlooking some of his other achievements in cinema.
   Barry is the man who came up with the tunes that many moviegoers know. He won Academy Awards for Born Free, The Lion in Winter, Out of Africa, and Dances with Wolves, and composed haunting and memorable themes for Somewhere in Time (for which Barry said he received more fan mail than for any other that he had composed), The Ipcress File, Midnight Cowboy, Body Heat, and the love song for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, ‘We Have All the Time in the World’, the last to be performed by Louis Armstrong. He also won four Grammys, a Bafta and a Golden Globe.
   Even his less celebrated scores had a lyrical style, not always complemented by the rich orchestra that typified some of Barry’s scores of the 1970s and 1980s. The simplicity of The Glass Menagerie featured Barry himself on the piano, while the opening themes for Jagged Edge and Indecent Proposal worked because of their beauty; in contrast, the grand orchestra, with nautical images floating through one’s mind, for Lew Grade’s Raise the Titanic outdid the film itself in so many respects. The score for the King Kong remake of 1976, too, is more sophisticated than the movie; one could level the same judgement at Barry’s score for The Specialist, the Sylvester Stallone starrer where the score lent emotional depth where certain actors failed to convey it.
   Barry’s output in the 1980s remained prolific, though a serious illness (a hole in the æsophagus) saw to a forced absence at the end of the decade. Barry’s final score up to that point, Masquerade, complemented a very young Kim Cattrall; the opening yacht race had another sweeping nautical style, while the haunting end theme could easily have had lyrics.
   His comeback for Dances with Wolves netted Barry another Oscar, though the number of soundtracks began to fall. Barry was a composer who worked on his own terms, quite happy to walk away from films when there was friction (Barbra Streisand and The Prince of Tides being one such failed collaboration, though the theme turned up elsewhere in Barry’s recordings). Chaplin was one of his more memorable works in the ’90s, while Playing by Heart played tribute to some of Barry’s own jazz heroes.
   His last score was for the World War II drama, Enigma, though Barry created a few albums toward the end of his career not tied to films. He performed on stage on several occasions, delighting fans, but for most of the 2000s, hopes of another Barry-scored movie dimmed.
   His career was one of those that many would be jealous to have: a man who set out to do what he wanted, accomplished his goals and achieved the highest accolades, and he could live in one of his four homes, including his best known one in Oyster Bay, in relative anonymity. It was largely controversy-free, though there was some debate as to whether Barry composed ‘The James Bond Theme’, credited to Monty Norman.
   A lawsuit against the Murdoch Press for suggesting it was not the credited composer saw the judgement come out in favour of Norman, while Barry typically evaded the question, usually answering: ‘If I didn’t write it, why did they ask me to do the other ones?’
   David Arnold, the composer who presently scores the Bond films, credits Barry for the Bond sound, from where, he says, the terms Barryesque and Bondesque come. Prior to taking over the scoring duties, Arnold called Barry ‘The Guv’nor’ in his Shaken and Stirred album; and it was Arnold who offered one of the first obituaries today in statements on Twitter: ‘it was with a heavy heart that i tell you John Barry passed away this morning’; ‘I am profoundly saddened by the news but profoundly thankful for everything he did for music and for me personally.’
   Barry was awarded the OBE in 1999. He was married four times, including one marriage to French actress Jane Birkin. He is survived by his wife Laurie, four children, and five grandchildren.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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January 29, 2011

Armani Exchange previews spring 2011 campaign

Lucire staff/17.25

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Armani Exchange
Armani Exchange
Armani Exchange
‘s spring–summer 2011 advertising campaign, Style Festival, has been shot at the Coachella Music Festival in Indio, Calif., styled by Kate Lanphear of Elle US.
   Lanphear’s aim was to connect the Armani Exchange brand close to music, which she says is ‘such a big part of the brand’s DNA’. Matthew Scrivens photographed the campaign, with Neil Moodie on hair and Virginia Smith on make-up.
   Coachella was thought to ring true to Armani Exchange’s youth market.
   The campaign breaks in February 2011 issues of, inter alia, GQ, Elle, Glamour, Allure, Out, Nylon, V and V-Men, says Armani Exchange.

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January 28, 2011

Bar Refaeli models Passionata’s summer ’11 lingerie collection

Lucire staff/9.02

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Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011
Bar Refaeli for Passionata été 2011

Model Bar Refaeli, better known to those outside fashion as the girlfriend of Leonardo di Caprio, has completed another shoot for French lingerie brand Passionata, released this week.
   The playful shoot, where Refaeli appears as a modern pin-up girl, is for the spring–summer 2011 collection. A behind-the-scenes video appears on the Passionata website.
   Refaeli is no stranger to intimate apparel marketing: she has been one of the Victoria’s Secret models and has posed for Marks & Spencer lingerie.
   The 25-year-old Israeli-born model has modelled for Passionata since 2009.
   Passionata is a sister brand to Chantelle, created in 1988. The move allowed Chantelle to occupy a premium position, with Passionata selling on modernity and seductiveness.

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Abbas–Mustan’s Players films at Miramar

Lucire staff/4.38

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Players at Burnham Wharf
Players at Burnham Wharf
After stints in Rongotai and Wellington central in New Zealand, the Abbas–Mustan brothers’ Players, the Indian remake of Paramount’s The Italian Job, shifted to Burnham Wharf at Miramar today—putting them near Peter Jackson territory and not far from where parts of his King Kong were filmed.
   Lead members of the cast were present, and nearby residents could hear the loudspeaker of one of the assistant directors for most of the day.
   It has emerged that the getaway will be done in three original Minis, not the BMW models—this time in red, blue and yellow, rather than the Union Jack colours of the 1969 caper. In car choice, the film is closer to the Michael Caine original, directed by the late Peter Collinson. As with the classic film, the three Minis were wearing Minilites, or at least alloy wheels that resembled Minilites.
   One of the “fast cars”, used as a back-up for the fictional gang, is a red Ferrari 355 Spyder.
   Directed by Abbas and Mustan Burmawalla, best known for their 2008 actioner Race, Players stars Abhishek Bachchan, Sonam Kapoor, Neil Nitin Mukesh, Bipasha Basu, Bobby Deol, Omi Vaidya and Sikander Kher.

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Camelia Skikos: at the cutting edge

Tamara Madison/3.48

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Camelia SkikosCamelia Skikos
Camelia SkikosCamelia Skikos
Camelia Skikos
It was not long ago that apparel designer, Camelia Skikos, had the dream of furthering her education. Little did she know that after enrolling in a newly installed fashion department at school that the activity would lead her into a flourishing and life-changing career. That decision also encouraged the birth of her eponymous fashion label.
   Hailing originally from Romania, Skikos has definitely paved her own way as a hard-working creative thinker who uses keen insight of human form as inspiration to turn out one dynamic collection after another. Her reputation for employing geometric shapes and understanding the female body gives Bay Area beauties an edgy look polished enough to wear for future seasons.
   As a passionate teenager growing up under communism, Skikos longed for change in everyday dress. ‘I started to design my own clothing at age 14 as a way to evade the uniformity of those days,’ Skikos said.
   After graduating from art school in Romania, she headed to London to work in illustration and design while refining her knowledge of the fashion industry. Afterward, she transitioned to San Francisco, Calif., where she was given the opportunity to work at Levi Strauss as a head designer. She also became an illustration savant at the Academy of Art University and still holds the position presently while producing high-fashion apparel.
   ‘I was really inspired by the energy of this city from my first visit here … I think my style became more versatile and practical since I moved here,’ Skikos said.
   In the Camelia Skikos collection there’s a fundamental boldness that’s exuded in each piece, ranging from the hues chosen to the style lines and tailoring. The clientèle embodies a contemporary woman who’s confident with her independent style. There are powerful dresses in figure-hugging silhouettes throughout the line. ‘I was inspired by my first experiments with fashion. I used to modify and transform the school uniforms I had to wear as a teenager,’ the designer said.
   The enterprising designer uses her illustrative skills to interpret today’s commanding sophisticate. Her garments call upon a woman who adores the hard–soft edge in all seams worn. There is also divine influence from French artist Yves Klein in Skikos’s collection, lending an electric pop of colour in clever pieces such as a wool one-shoulder shrug. Each garment from the line is special in its artistic shape and may be worn alone or coalesced, creating one completely striking ensemble. However, it’s the homogeneous appeal in Skikos’s work, for example in the wool loop dress, and the wool one-shoulder dress that showcases her eagle eye for fashion engineering. Skikos is a woman who speaks with ardour and certainty about fashion.
   She uses materials ranging from silk, wool, and varied selections of knits, focusing more on the fabric’s impression in contrast, whether it be between the tactility of a fabric, weight, or mere æsthetic. There’s also leather throughout the collection, giving each outfit more personality. Leather harnesses and straps act as the perfect companion for knit dresses and structured coats. ‘In the end, though, it’s not about the material you use, but how you use it,’ Skikos said.
   Pieces from the Camelia Skikos collection may be acquired in San Francisco and New York. However, Skikos is planning to expand her label in Europe and Asia in the near future. You may also see her showcased in the upcoming Los Angeles Focus fashion show. So, be on the look out. For more information visit: www.cameliaskikos.com.—Tamara Madison

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Filed under: design, fashion, Lucire, New York
January 26, 2011

Heidi Klum and AOL to launch women’s online content

Lucire staff/22.07

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Heidi Klum and AOL have announced they will create online content focusing on fashion, beauty, parenting, relationships, lifestyle and arts and crafts.
   Klum says that women’s advice is ‘so scattered online’ and their attempt will consolidate the information on one site, to be hosted at the aol.com domain.
   ‘During my 15 years in the business, I’ve received so many questions on a variety of topics from my favourite toothbrush to juggling family and a busy work schedule. I’m bringing in the experts that have helped me over the years to help inspire you,’ she says.
   However, Klum’s claim that women’s advice is scattered is not altogether true. MSN had introduced a women’s portal some years ago, and She Knows accomplishes much of what AOL is setting out to do. The difference is that AOL is aiming to have celebrity-endorsed content to get visitors in.
   In its quest for content, AOL has acquired TechCrunch recently. This appears to be part of its strategy to get more of the online audience.
   The announcement comes in the wake of Coty announcing that Klum will launch a new fragrance.

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Vanessa Hudgens replaces Britney Spears as face of Candie’s

Lucire staff/21.46

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Vanessa Hudgens for Candie's
Vanessa Hudgens for Candie's
Tony Duran, courtesy Candie’s

In line with earlier big names it has managed to secure such as Britney Spears, Iconix has announced that Vanessa Hudgens, the 22-year-old star of Disney’s High School Musical series, is the spokeswoman for Candie’s spring–summer 2011 line.
   In a release, Hudgens says, ‘Ever since I saw Fergie do the ads for Candie’s, I fell in love. It’s such an honour to be a Candie’s girl.
   ‘We had a blast shooting the campaign. One of my favourite sets was using the diner countertop as a runway—it’s definitely not every day I get to do that.’
   ‘The campaign creative was inspired by Twitter with Vanessa offering fans behind the scenes-like photos and sound bites about each shot,’ says Dari Marder, chief marketing officer for Iconix.
   The campaign was shot at the Pink Motel in Sun Valley, California by photographer Tony Duran. It will break in March with print (notably Seventeen, Teen Vogue and Cosmopolitan), online, outdoor, point-of-sale and direct mail creative. Hudgens will Tweet from Candie’s Twitter page, while Facebook users can become fans at www.facebook.com/candies.
   Candie’s is sold exclusively at Kohl’s.

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Bon & Zai’s contemporary cashmere; interviewing the woman behind Bulgari’s exhibition

Lucire staff/8.50

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Bon & Zai
Bon & Zai

Bon & Zai has entered the Swiss market after reporting success in the French Alps and London. The contemporary cashmere label, founded by Nancy Cravero and Isabel Morillo last autumn, will sell to Swiss and European customers online at www.bonandzai.com.
   Cravero and Morillo have backgrounds in finance and fashion, and collaborate on all the designs in their range.
   The dragon sweater (pictured above) has a subdued colour palette. The signature, the designers say, is ‘taking unique accents while respecting the noble nature inherent to cashmere.’
   Meanwhile, on the main part of the Lucire site, there have been some very special additions. US west coast editor Elyse Glickman has ventured back to San Francisco, one of our favourite US cities, for a peek at the food and drink, while Paris editor Lola Saab interviews the woman, Amanda Triossi, behind the recently concluded Bulgari exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris.
   Our two-(web) page feature (that alone tells you it’s a biggie) on Bulgari has images from the exhibition’s celebrity opening night as well as close-ups of some of the exquisite jewellery exhibited.

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