Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Christopher Kane were among the designers on day four of London Fashion Week.
As expected from Burberry, celebrities including Kanye West, Sienna Miller, Gemma Arterton, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and photographer Mario Testino occupied its front row. Of the trade, Vogueâs Anna Wintour sat in the best seats.
Burberry took the unusual step of Tweeting about its collection before it was shown on the catwalk.
Burberry’s Christopher Bailey received plenty of applause for a collection that updates the idea of the English rose, with tea dresses and linen skirts, though African-inspired prints and the use of burnt orange and khaki gave the springâsummer 2012 collection additional pizazz.
Pringle, under a new design director, Alistair Carr (formerly of BalenĂ§iaga), stayed true to the brand’s style. While the foundation was grey knitwear, Carr brought in stripes, twin-sets, and bright colour geometric patterns, but nothing that would upset the core customer. He used asymmetry to good effect, particularly on the later coats, which were buttoned askew.
Christopher Kane showed ﬂoral dresses and jackets, but with prints that stood out thanks to their bright colours, on foundations of grey and blue. Kane also showed jewelled jeans, skirts and dresses, and metallic jackets and skirts that had subtle ﬂoral patterns.
Videos below are from Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane, Pringle of Scotland, Antipodium, Antonio Berardi, Michael van der Ham, Mark Fast, Burberry Prorsum, Todd Lynn, Christian Blanken, Erdem, Giles, Unique and a day four highlight reel.
Day three was a day of celebrity-watching at London Fashion Week. Anna Wintour showed up at Nicole Farhi (who is interviewed below) and at Unique. Naomi Campbell, Ellie Goulding, Kelis, and Nicola Roberts also attended the latter. Goulding and Erin O’Connor appeared at Marios Schwab. Kate Moss, Eliza Doolittle, Olivia Palermo, and Kristen Stewart turned up at Mulberry, and Wintour and Sienna Miller attended Matthew Williamson’s springâsummer 2012 collection.
Williamson’s collection was notable for his prints and ﬂowing dresses, as well as his use of bright, tropical shades, continuing the voluminous and colourful trends for the spring. Mulberry, too, went colourful with lemon and pink, as well as complex prints and a good use of lace.
Doug Rimington has ﬁled some luscious photographs from London for days two and three, which we will showcase very soon. Meanwhile, enjoy the springâsummer 2012 videos from Mulberry, J. J. S. Lee, Margaret Howell, Richard Nicoll, Fashion East, Nicole Farhi, Peter Jensen, Unique, Marios Schwab, Unconditional, Matthew Williamson, and Paul Smith, plus a highlight reel from day three.
DAKS took its springâsummer 2012 inspiration from the 1950s, with classic lines, a simple colour palette, and ﬂowing, wearable lightweight dresses with voluminous skirts. The cuts and volume certainly tended to be on the money as far as trends go for springâmaking you want the season to be here immediately.
Husband-and-wife team Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro showed shirt dresses, silk dresses, cashmere knits, and slim trousers, distinguishing the Clements Ribeiro springâsummer 2012 collection with their clever prints.
Ashish also had a ﬂoral theme, though the colours were far brighter and the printed ﬂowers more exaggeratedâto wonderful effect. The Van Gogh-style ﬂowers and zebra prints gave Ashish’s collection a more youthful, energetic feel.
Julien Macdonald, always one to watch, did not disappoint with spectacle: his military-inspired collection saw models don dominatrix-style leather biker dresses and army caps, but this was tempered with Chinese Ming and Japanese tattoo prints. Unsurprisingly, Macdonald managed to attract celebrity guests including Eliza Doolittle, Alesha Dixon, Bianca Jagger and Lorraine Kelly.
Jasper Conran reminded us just why his designs work: they are deceptively simple but a great deal of thought had been put in. Colour blocking, sharp lines, A-line dresses and cute box bags make for a sexy springâsummer.
Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena used sheer fabrics, cut-outs and panelling, with peacock blues, yellows and lilacs to lift the mood in springtime.
Jaeger’s springâsummer 2012 collection was inspired by the jet-set of the 1960s and 1970s, according to design director Stuart Stockdale. Stripes were on displayâthis is deﬁnitely a spring trend at London Fashion Weekâon tops, sundresses and trouser suits; polka dots and paisley prints also emerged in a funky, sunny collection.
House of Holland’s colours were more subdued, tempering the bright shades with grey and brown. The animal prints were fun, with leopards and cows suggested this season, though with all the bright colours we had been exposed to in other collections, you almost wished that things weren’t so muted. However, if the colours prove too much, and subtlety is preferredâas it will be for many customersâthen Holland may be the place to go.
J. W. Anderson branched out from menswear into a women’s collection for springâsummer 2012, with a meticulously designed range that takes his clever tailoring techniques and reinvents them. Suits, patchwork dresses, and knit dresses showed that Anderson has what it takes in this market.
John Rocha understands theatre, with a collection that blended feathers and wool with leather and silk, with his mythical warriors seemingly venturing from storybooks. A variety of techniques was used including pleating and crocheting, all of which created a spectacular collection united not only by the look, but the complexity of the fabrications.
Issa, one of the Duchess of Cambridge’s favourite labels, took a Rio inspiration, re-creating the colour of Brazil and channelling the spirit of Carnaval. We saw bright blues and yellows here, too, complemented by an apple green, and prints featuring stripes and plant life. Issa also showed shorts, sundresses and sweaters.
Jonathan Saunders aimed for lighter shades of pink, green, orange, and peach, and we were impressed with the ﬁnish and cut on his designs. This is one of the most wearable collections at Fashion Week so far, and we suspect Saunders will have no trouble shifting his springâsummer â12 range.
Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label show at Smithﬁelds Market managed to draw in the celebrities (including Tracey Emin, Eliza Doolittle, Kelis, Pamela Anderson, Jaquetta Wheeler, and Paloma Faith) guaranteeing her coverage, though the collection itself stood up on its own merits. Inspired by Degas, Westwood combined the shades one sees in the artist’s impressionist work with metallic fabrics. A hint of retro-futurism emerged, thanks to the shoes and the headgear that brought a sense of 1960s’ space-age optimism to proceedings. Well cut dresses and suiting mean a wearable springâsummer 2012 for the brand.
The ﬁnal videos are from Fashion Fringe, Dominic Jones, Sister by Sibling, and Headonism, the celebration of London millinery hosted by the British Fashion Council, followed by a highlight reel from day two.
Our day one coverage from London Fashion Week sees both photography by Douglas Rimington and video of the collections.
Paul Costelloe can always be relied upon at London Fashion Week to deliver a well made, well edited collection. For springâsummer 2012, Costelloe shoed baby-doll dresses, shirt dresses, and puff skirts and sleeves, while for men, loose shirts and lightweight suits, with a hint of the 1960s throughout.
Corrie Nielsen looked to the Far East for her inspiration, with kabuki suits, origami pleats, layering, ruching and pleating.
Caroline Charles’s springâsummer look is loose-ﬁtting, with dresses at knee-length, made more feminine on some outﬁts with the presence of bows, ties, sashes, sequins, beads and lace. She sent many of her models out with hats and dark sunglasses, lending the collection a sophisticated air.
Bora Aksu combined a 1900s look with bohemian chic, sending variations of panelled dresses and tops down the catwalk. The cut of the panels provided contrast, as did the aquamarine trim on numerous dresses. The ingenuity was in the designer’s detailing.
Jean Pierre Braganza showed dramatic prints, unexpected cut-outs and oversized tailoring, including the return of very angular shoulder pads on his jackets. Despite the play on sizes, Braganza’s larger-than-life designs worked on the models, in keeping with the looser silhouettes of spring.
Felder Felder had a youthful, feminine style to its springâsummer 2012 collection, with a clever use of cut and trim to distinguish its dresses. The collection also welcomed the return of the metallic mini-dress, miniskirt and leather jacket.
There were dashes of metallic fabrics at Basso & Brooke, too, but in a far more colourful fashion. Floral, and psychedelic prints, in dresses again cut loosely, characterized the duo’s spring collection. The looks were accessorized with oversized jewellery and large sunglasses.
The video camera also caught Maria Grachvogel, Sass & Bide, Orla Kiely, Ann-Soﬁe Back Atelje and PPQ, shown below, along with a day one highlight reel.
While we assemble our in-depth New York Fashion Week stories and specials, Lucire photographer Stephen Ciuccoli wanted to share with readers some of his shots from the shows at Lincoln Center.
Vivenne Tam, moved by her zen garden at her apartment, showed an elegant collection, with clear inspiration from the plant life, water and space there. Orchid and petal appliquĂŠs, ﬁoral and bamboo prints, and coral and ocean blue hues marked out Tam’s springâsummer 2012 collection.
Helen Yarmak still showed sumptuous furs but knows when to tone things down while times are tough, showing dresses, ponchos and chunky knitted sweaters for spring.
Farah Angsana also looked to the east for inspiration in a return to form this season, with delicious beaded evening gowns, embroidered dresses and kimono jackets. Her inspiration came from a painting that Angsana saw in a Shanghai art gallery, tempering the oriental inﬂuences with western sensibilities.
There’ll be more from Custo Barcelona in our pages, but, in the meantime, we’re whetting your appetite with one of Custo Dalmau’s most wearable collectionsâbut he’s lost none of the trade-mark pizazz with psychedelic prints, sequins and rufﬂes.
Last but not least, designer Rafael Cennamo really impressed us. He is established but spring 2012 was the ﬁrst collection he showed at New York Fashion Week. He showed a tightly edited connection, inspired by collectible dolls. Again, there was a sense of glamour to the collection, thanks to Cennamo’s use of lace, tulle and beading.
Supermodel Kate Moss talks about her new Lasting Finish Lipstick collection for Rimmel, in an interview shot at the time of the launch at Claridge’s yesterday.
Moss reveals she is wearing no. 1 in the 15-shade range, which she calls a ‘look-at-me red’.
An after-party last night at the Battersea Power Station, as London Fashion Week kicked off, saw Moss arrive by helicopter, in keeping with the television commercial for the new range. There were more red-carpet celebrity arrivals, including Donna Air, Sadie Frost, Steve Mormoris, Cara Delevingne, the Noisettes, Solange Knowles and Georgia May Jagger.
Newlywed supermodel Kate Moss has released her Lasting Finish Lipstick collection for Rimmel, with whom she has partnered for 10 years.
The company hosted an event Thursday to launch the line, which Moss is said to have personally designed.
Held at the ballroom at Claridge’s in London, Moss make her appearance well into the event, where she talked about her collaboration and the television commercial, shot at a parking building in Croydon.
The advertisement sees Moss departing in a helicopter, which she called a memorable experience. In the commercial, it ﬂies over the O2 and Tower Bridge.
Moss added that Rimmel dropped her home in the chopper.
Other VIPs included Georgia May Jagger, Solange Knowles and Alejandra Ramos, all of whom are Rimmel ambassadors.
Above Rimmel celebrates its 10 year partnership with original London girl, Kate Moss, who today launches her personally designed lipstick range for the brandâKate Moss Lasting Finish Lipstick collection.
Neverblackâs look for autumnâwinter 2012 took a dewy skinned, romantic look at grunge. The perfect skin is ﬂushed and feminine, with lips stained in matte tones of nude or maple. The eyes capture the drama, tarnished with an ethereal bronze glow.
Smashbox provided us with a glimpse at how the look was achieved.
To start off, Smashbox Photo Finish Face Primer and Lid Primer were used to
keep the look in place. Dewy skin was achieved with Smashbox Studio Skin 15 Hour Wear Hydrating Foundation, followed by Smashbox Photo OP Under Eye Brightener for a touch of radiance to the high planes of the face. Smashbox Blush Rush in Passion gave cheeks a feminine, ﬂushed look. Smashbox Lip Tech in Nude and Maple kept the lips a natural satiny matte. The perfect complexion was balanced with a more undone yet stronger eye in tarnished bronze tones. Smashbox Eye Shadow colours Brazilian Bronze, Sienna and Ambient were blended across the lid and brought underneath and out. Finally, the inky Smashbox Full Exposure Mascara was concentrated at the base of eyelashes for extra deﬁnition.