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August 31, 2011

New Zealand Fashion Week, autumn–winter 2012: day one

Lucire staff/0.31

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Andrea Moore
Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

The first New Zealand Fashion Week shows covered by Lucire fashion editor Sopheak Seng and senior writer Vicki Matias are complemented by the photography of Lisa Wilson. Some of the official photographs are also shown below, photographed by Michael Ng. We’re updating from Auckland regularly—please keep popping back as collections are uploaded to Lucire.
   Selected designers will appear in more in-depth features at the end of Fashion Week.

Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Bitter Sweet Memories: this season the J Ho girl has gone moody librarian chic on us. Naughty but nice pleating was used to create a dramatic effect on a rust-coloured maxi skirt and on a button-down dress, while chunky knits in turtle necks and cardigans acted as key features alongside leather collar neck pieces. Tweed and jacquards spoke to a more refined elegance and were used in tailored trousers, skirts and a beautiful tuxedo style jacket. Grey ruled the collection with pops of mustard and crimson adding much needed vibrancy and leopard print injected some roar into those sassy librarians.

Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Aptly named Living Dolls, Annah Stretton’s latest collection was fun and youthful with playful dresses dominating the range. The dresses came in a delightful palette of pastel hues of lilac and blue in tweed, soft wool and silk. There was no shortage of velvet ruffled collars and gathered hem detailing on cropped jackets, the large bow fastenings adding the perfect finishing to the outfits. Several of the pieces, including a short-sleeved black shift dress featuring dense black, silver and gold sequin embellishment were real eye-catchers while the main pieces included an array of structured full round skirt dresses skimming the models’ mid-thighs. The full round skirt dresses came in an abundant selection of textiles and finishings including piped or ruffled edges, the thin satin bow waist belts adding the perfect final touch to these living dolls.

Starfish
Starfish
Starfish
Starfish
Starfish
Starfish
Starfish

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

As Bowie blared from the speakers and models strutted the runway in bouffant hairdos, we were taken back on a journey to the ’80s where stars shone brightly and glam rock was in. The collection, titled Lunatopia, celebrates famous personalities that dared to be different such as Bowie, Debbie Harry and Princess Diana. A beautiful starburst print was the signature of the collection this season and came on everything from cropped jackets, to dresses and pants. Dramatic shoulders were also present, showcasing that power dressing is coming back. Midnight blues, blush, moss and slate dominate this coming winter, the sophisticated colour schemes embodying both femininity and strength.

Hailwood
Moody blues, china and chambray blues were key elements in the Hailwood show. Jumpsuits came with fringing and cape backed dresses were also wearable. The finalé dress, which came in a beautiful ombre effect and cascaded beautifully against the model, was the stand-out of the collection.

Andrea Moore
Andrea Moore
Andrea Moore
Andrea Moore
Andrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore
Andrea MooreAndrea Moore

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Andrea MooreTitled Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Andrea Moore’s show was comprised of beautiful rich jewel tones of ruby red, midnight blue, emerald green and royal purple emerging out onto the dark catwalk illuminated by the glow-sticks provided to the audience. Rabbit- and ostrich-feathered accessories complemented short V-neck wool and silk dresses with structured, tucked shoulder detailing, while coats were a key staple of the collection and came very tailored with double breasting being a key trend.
   Highly wearable, commercial and sophisticated, Andrea Moore’s latest collection continues to stay true to her signature style.

Blak Luxe
The Blak girl has gone witchy gothic on us. She wears a crown of twigs in her hair while wearing flowing gossamaer silks and embroidered velvets. Märchen is the twisted, dark and magical fairytale where the Blak girl reigns. Lace dominates the collection, seducing the wearer with its infinite possibilities while rich furs, wool, crochet and leather also make an appearance in conjunction with a moody palette of jet black, blood red, ghostly white and inky blues. The use of prints in the collection this season served as the stand out of the collection. The classic Blak leopard print returned and textile designer Liz Wilson collaborated with the label to create labyrinth prints of symbols, skeletons keys, scarab beetles, roses, cobwebs and chained hearts to protect the wearer. A print of shadowy galloping horses was also featured, adding to the fairytale-esque ambience created by this collection.

Coop
Coop
Coop
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

A very polished and edgy aura surrounded Coop’s début show at New Zealand Fashion Week. Headed by designers Lauren Connolly and Alexandra Dunn, cut-out neck lines, layered and embroidered leather, plenty of black and thigh-high lace trimmed stockings all exuded streetwise sex appeal. Diagonal full-length silver metal zips on the backs of dresses added an element of temptation and the one-shouldered heavily pleated mini-dresses in both black and fuchsia found the perfect balance between punk and rock-cool while still being chic. A moody and earthy colour palette ruled this collection with moss, slate, earth brown and white suiting the tastes of the young party girl.

Ingrid Starnes
Ingrid Starnes
Ingrid Starnes
Ingrid Starnes
Ingrid Starnes
Ingrid Starnes
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Ingrid Starnes’ Arcadia show delved back into the 1940s but twisted the styles to create a younger, trendier feel. The collection was partly inspired by the impossible romance of memory. With a backdrop designed by good friend Xanthe White of floating moss and botanicals, the collection echoes a bygone year when ladies dressed like ladies. Mustard, navy and cream all were present throughout while mushroom and brown was used as a base for a beautiful botanical print. With most pieces being sweet with the use of underwear as outerwear and all that jazz, it seems that Starnes is heading in the right direction as a designer.—Sopheak Seng and Vicki Matias

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