Lucire
The global fashion magazine December 05, 2021 



 

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2012, day 3: a standing ovation and an on-stage party


NEWS
Filed by Sopheak Seng/September 2, 2011/2.18


Fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng, senior writer Vicki Matias and photographer Lisa Wilson have continued with their reviews of the New Zealand Fashion Week shows. Zambesi, Huffer and Mister will appear in post-Fashion Week features, but given the (deserved) hype around them on Thursday, we thought it best to give Lucire readers a quick low-down of the shows we checked out.

Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi
Zambesi

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Three decades on, and Zambesi still manages to surprise even the most avid of fans their show, sparking a new direction for the brand. In addition to the traditional Zambesi colours of black, chocolate, navy, cream and grey there were bright pops of highlighter yellow, cobalt blue and green in the mix.
   Classic tailoring was paired with sport wear to create that brilliantly cool Zambesi feel. From the moment the first model walked the runway in an all-black outfit with stripes of fluoro yellow, we knew we were in for a treat. And the feast for the eyes did not stop there. Pea coats, tuxedo jackets, trenches and jumpers all spoke of a relaxed elegance while still matching back perfectly with sharp military precision cutting. Leopard prints made a fierce appearance in the form of a shirt for men and in a dress. Knitwear was key for the Zambesi brand this season, coming in knitted jumpers with fine checks for men and divine cowl-neck dresses for the girls. Gorgeous knitted collars in vibrant pops of colour were a to-die-for accessory. Sequins on cobweb lace and velvets added another dimension on to what was already a textile minefield and only made the collection more luxe.

Huffer
Huffer
Huffer
Huffer

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Huffer’s collection, Colden Days, took its inspiration from Soviet Russia and the Cold War. Huffer’s menswear continued its sporting, robust style with good fit, with military jackets and greater volume thanks to its quirky inspiration. (The last time we saw anything remotely reminiscent of the era was Nom D’s winter 2003 collection.) Under designer Sam Hickey, Huffer’s menswear shone. Womenswear also stayed true to the roots, with designer Aimée McFarlane showing very wearable jersey dresses, printed pleated skirts and tunics.
   But it was the post-collection on-catwalk party that restated Huffer’s slightly non-conformist roots, with Canadian-born Aja Rock popping out of a cake and sprays of champagne that caught the front row.
Huffer
Huffer
Huffer
Huffer

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

Sable & Minx
The autumn–winter 2012 Sable & Minx collection is refreshingly concise and highly wearable. Moss green, burnt orange, toffee and cream tones combined to create sheer silk blouses, crushed velvet pieces, low cowl-neck sleeveless dresses, jackets and skirts. High-waisted black jodhpurs with stretch rib-side seam panels paired with a billowing black silk blouse made an appearance, the ensemble completed with a large, long silk bow-tie. A mid-length pin-tucked capped shouldered, short-sleeved dress with an empire waistline came in an abstract lily print on silk in an array of deep purples, blues, sea-greens and black.

Brady
It was mainly all about minimal block colouring at the Brady show. One very earthy Sahara style geometric print in coffee and blue silk pieces and a cute little carry-bag stood out among the otherwise minimalist collection. A bright blue three-quarter length coat added a dash of colour whilst a beautifully tailored black leather jacket with rolled-up tight fitted sleeves added polish to an outfit. A floor-length black merino dress with cut-out leather side-seam bodice inserts and cowl neck had a lovely fluid movement and this label provided yet again another easily wearable collection.

Whiri
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Whiri’s Crossing Generations collection intertwined traditional linear patterns from Māori art and culture with modern textile prints, a combination which lead to a very cohesive range. The colour palette of earthy red, brown, grey and black was reminiscent of the classic Māori organic tonal range. The combination of traditional pounamu jewellery with contemporary silhouettes and textures further married the modern with the past.

Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders
Two Wonders

Lisa Wilson/Lisa Wilson Photography

In the deepest depths of Cambodia, there is was once a wild landscape with a beautiful temple, Angkor Wat, hidden underneath. The début collection from Wellington label, Two Wonders, fuses old-world charm and Asian influences with modern lines to perfectly complement the female form. Dresses came complete with long trains suited for queens and princesses while tailored skinny and wide leg trousers gave a masculine edge to all the femininity. Perfectly accessorized with traditional Cambodian jewellery, the collection was a perfect melting-pot of east meets west and old meets new. Colours of rust, ruby red, rose gold and black onyx belied the treasures found in this label.

Deryn Schmidt
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Joy of Life was the title of Deryn’s autumn–winter 2012 collection. This was very much on trend with what other established designers were showing for the coming season. ’Forties French chic was the order of the day and truly feminine clothes were on the cards. Skirts fell to the ankle elegantly, skimming the curves of the body, while maxi-dresses and button-down shifts floated effortlessly. Raspberry, blueberry, orange and currant were paired with gentle honey and mustards, letting the models shine and celebrating what it means to be a woman.

Katie-Maree Cole
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Flouncy knee-length, ruffle-hemmed silk skirts, tangerine cotton knit dresses, velvet and merino dresses and short-sleeved mohair sweaters were all on display at the début of Katie-Maree Cole. Sweet plaids and lace detailing accompanied shades of chocolate brown, ox-blood red, cream and navy. Each mode was finished off with cute lace headscarves which completed the prairie peasant girl theme.

Emma Manhart
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

Emma Manhart’s début splashed out into a haze of vibrant colour and texture. Explaining to Lucire that she was bored with the usual black tones often found in winter wardrobes, Manhart wanted more flair. The first piece to make an appearance was a lemon felt-wool rounded cape jacket with matching possum fur collar and glossy wide leg black pants. Rounded lapels and large buttons featured on an emerald overcoat and a textured felt-wool fuchsia bar jacket with voluminous bell sleeves, reminiscent of the mode of the 1940s. Hand-painted silks and colourful fabrics resembling a liquorice all-sort pack exploded in tonal harmony.

Mister
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
NZFW by Michael Ng
Michael Ng/New Zealand Fashion Week

To receive a standing ovation from the crowd at a fashion show is an achievement but to do so on your début is truly out of this world. Yet for husband-and-wife team Mickey Lin and Ra Thomson, this was a reality on Thursday. Their autumn–winter 2012 collection, Not So Grimm, was a celebration of all the trials and tribulations they have endured in making their dreams come true. Celebrating the light at the end of the tunnel, the collection featured colour upon colour upon colour. Bright pinks, orange, teals, rust, mauves were all present and signature checks were blown up and used in traditional tailored jackets, trousers and skirts but with the signature Mister fun and quirkiness. The collection celebrated life and an optimism that we should all have: to never give up hope. Not content with making their own dreams came true, they also helped local boy Josh who has always wanted to be model and suffers from cerebral palsy, to open the show. They really did live happily ever after as in the fairy tales.—Sopheak Seng, Vicki Matias and Jack Yan

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