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January 31, 2012

Deryn Schmidt recalls the 1940s in autumn–winter 2012 collection

Sopheak Seng/21.50

Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Hot on the heels of her début at New Zealand Fashion Week last year, Deryn Schmidt has become a household name synonymous with feminine fashion. Having showed as part of the new generations show at Fashion Week, her collection was one of the most sought after and highly praised by both local and international media and buyers, but here at Lucire we have known all along that she was destined for greatness.
   With Joy of Life, Schmidt recalls the bygone era of the 1940s’ postwar glamour. Sharp tailoring mixes with soft, flowing feminine lines to create a modern interpretation of the uniforms of yesteryear. A very French influence is noted in the collection with the easy wear glamour and joie de vivre way of dressing.
   The collection embraces the freedom and celebration of women, and is about expressing your identity as women. Beautiful silks, wools and cashmeres mix with merinos silk cottons, linen. For the first time, the Deryn Schmidt brand also introduces New Zealand leather and velve,t adding to the brand’s tactile ethos, ensuring that garments will be treasured pieces that can be enjoyed today as well as years to come.
   Wartime black and greys are brightened up with juicy berry shades of currant, boysenberry, cranberry and oranges. Honey and mustards also add pops of colour to liven up your winter wardrobe.
   Our pick of the collection would have to be the Belle dress. Schmidt’s signature skill of being able to drape fabrics beautifully against he body is evident in this dress, hand sewn pleats fall effortlessly skimming the body while giving you the feminine lines of the ’40s. The bliss dress is also a wardrobe must as well, the perfect shirtdress, it is flattering and the drawstring waist nips in and flows out beautifully.
   For winter, Schmidt’s exceptional tailoring is evident in the many coats that will be sure to sell out. Our two favourites would be the Exuberant jacket, which is a swing jacket featuring only the finest wool cashmere but pieced together with New Zealand leather, it recalls the fighter jackets of wartime pilots. The Identity coat, a masculine military style pea coat will also be another must-have. Its beautiful wool cashmere will have you sinking into it, while the contrast panels skim and flatter your figure.
   The new collection will be available in stores and online from February onwards.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012
Deryn Schmidt autumn–winter 2012

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Jones New York in New Zealand; Brancott Estate launches app; Guggenheim Bilbao launches exhibition

Lucire staff/21.16

Jones New York

Jones New York has launched its optical eyewear collection in New Zealand, available through Visique. The range features tailored frames that are masculine in style, with a selection of fashionable colours and modern materials.

Brancott Estate

   Brancott Estate, meanwhile, has released a new smartphone application, called World’s Most Curious Bottle. There are 14 ‘unique consumer experiences’ on the app, including entertainment and wine information, that users can unlock when they scan the QR code on the new Brancott Estate labels. The app is compatible with Apple and Android.
   Opening today at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao is The Inverted Mirror: Art from the Collections of la Caixa Foundation and MACBA, representing movements such as Dau al Set, the El Paso group, the Vancouver School and the DĂŒsseldorf School. It features 93 works by 52 artists who worked with various media, especially photography, video and large-format sculpture. Artists include Antoni TĂ pies, Sigmar Polke, Julian Schnabel, Jeff Wall, Martha Rosler, Michelangelo Pistolletto, Thomas Ruff, Gillian Wearing, Bruce Nauman, Andreas Gursky, Martí­n Chirino and Antonio Saura.
   The introduction below from curator Alvaro RodrĂ­guez Fominaya is in Spanish, while the walk through the gallery is silent.

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Kelly Rowland a possibility for US X Factor as speculation mounts that Nicole Scherzinger is out

Lucire staff/11.37

As reported elsewhere, Steve Jones has already confirmed on Twitter that he will not return for the second season of the US version of The X Factor as creator Simon Cowell tinkers with the show.
   The UK media, meanwhile, are speculating that Nicole Scherzinger will also get the boot, and there’s even a hint that Paula Abdul will be on her way out.
   One possibility is that Kelly Rowland will head to the US version after performing well on the original. Naturally, Cheryl Cole has been mentioned as another possibility, but that may well be down to wishful thinking and her undeniable support among Britons.
   Mariah Carey’s and Fergie’s names have also been mentioned.

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January 30, 2012

Elizabeth Olsen models ASOS magazine’s cover

Lucire staff/21.11

ASOS Magazine with Elizabeth Olsen
Todd Cole/ASOS magazine

Above Elizabeth Olsen, on the cover of ASOS magazine, wears a MiH Aztec jacket, and an Elizabeth & James striped silk Ella blouse. She wears an ASOS long-sleeve Breton top inside.

ASOS—once better known as As Seen on Screen—has continued to grow in profile. Its latest magazine features actress Elizabeth Olsen on its cover, photographed by Todd Cole at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in New York, reportedly one of her favourite spots in the city.
   She is the younger sister of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and was one of the break-out stars at the Sundance Film Festival 2011 for thriller Martha Marcy May Marlene, about a woman who chooses to leave a cult.
   Her new film, Red Lights, with Robert de Niro and Sigourney Weaver, dĂ©buts at this year’s Sundance, while Liberal Arts, with Zac Efron, was released this week. Her horror film Silent House opens March 9.
   ASOS has 18·5 million unique visitors per month, 7 million registered users, and 4 million active customers, according to its own data.

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The Help wins big at SAG awards; Mary Tyler Moore receives lifetime achievement honour

Lucire staff/11.50

SAG Awards 2012
Michael Buckner/WireImage

SAG Awards 2012
John Shearer/WireImage

Top Octavia Spencer and Viola Davis—Best Actress in a Supporting Role and Best Actress in a Leading Role—at the 18th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards. Above Mary Tyler Moore receives a lifetime achievement award from former co-star Dick van Dyke.

The Screen Actors’ Guild (SAG) Awards are often looked to, in order to figure out which film and which actors take out the top awards at the Oscars.
   If this year’s ceremony in Los Angeles is any indication, it will be civil rights’ drama The Help, which has won best cast, best actress for Viola Davis, and best supporting actress for Octavia Spencer.
   In accepting the ensemble award (above), Davis inspired the audience with her speech. ‘I just have to say that the stain of racism and sexism is not just for people of colour or women. It’s all of our burden, all of us 
 I don’t care how ordinary you feel, all of us can inspire change, every single one of us,’ she said.
   The Artist did not do as well, though star Jean Dujardin picked up the best actor prize.
   Christopher Plummer won best supporting actor for Beginners.
   Among the TV prizes, Paul Giamatti won best actor in a TV film or miniseries for Too Big to Fail, which covered the 2008 financial crisis. As at the Golden Globes, Kate Winslet won best actress for Mildred Pierce.
   Boardwalk Empire won the TV drama ensemble award, and its star Steve Buscemi won best actor in this category. Jessica Lange won the best actress in a drama series award for American Horror Story.
   Modern Family won best ensemble for a comedy series, while Alec Baldwin won best actor in a comedy series for 30 Rock. Betty White, 90, won best actress for Hot in Cleveland.
   Dick van Dyke presented a lifetime achievement award to Mary Tyler Moore—an actress his self-titled show in the 1960s brought to prominence—who wound up producing and starring in her own show in the 1970s. Her MTM Enterprises brought numerous series and dramas to the screen, including Lou Grant, Hill Street Blues and Remington Steele.

SAG Awards 2012SAG Awards 2012
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SAG Awards 2012
Dimitrios Kambouris, Kevin Mazur, Lester Cohen, John Shearer, Michael Buckner, Christopher Polk/WireImage

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Italian dreams: Francesca Donetto

Lucire staff/11.25

Francesca Donetto, photographed by Thomas Salme
Francesca Donetto, photographed by Thomas Salme
Thomas Salme

Top Italian model Francesca Donetto, wearing Enrico Coveri, photographed by Thomas Salme. Above Francesca Donetto wears Federico Sangalli.

Francesca Donetto is one of many thousands of Italian young women who want to make it as a model in the hard fashion world of Italy—and especially that of Milano.
   I shot her latest photos in my studio in Milano last month and got to know a young girl full of beauty and passion.
   Francesca is from Treviso, close to Venezia, and is born on December 10, 1992. Her measurements are 92–70–94 cm, or 36–27œ–37 in. Her height of 182 cm—6 ft in Imperial—does not only make her a good model, but a skilled basketballer: she has played the sport for the last five years with considerable success. She love the cinema and is a very positive young woman, with a great vision, even in times like today. Even if she would like to make it in the fashion world, she says that it is not the most important thing in life.—Thomas Salme, Photographer

Francesca Donetto, photographed by Thomas Salme
Francesca Donetto, photographed by Thomas Salme
Francesca Donetto, photographed by Thomas Salme
Thomas Salme

Above Francesca Donetto in Chiara Boni, photographed by Thomas Salme.

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January 29, 2012

Charlene K: genuine gemstone glam

Lola Saab/10.11

Charlene K
Charlene K

Courtesy Charlene K

Above Charlene K has managed to gain a following among the Hollywood set, including Academy Award-winning actress Reese Witherspoon.

As every gift is considered prettier with a bow, a woman is portrayed as even more sophisticated with a jewel.
   When one is surrounded by fascinating pieces such as a pair of earrings, a chic pendant, a fabulous bracelet or an eye-opening ring, an instant shimmer of grace lights the room and instantly illuminates one’s surrounding space. Jewellery is seen as an important factor for many; the late actress and famous fashion icon, Elizabeth Taylor, once said, ‘I adore wearing gems, but not because they are mine. You can’t possess radiance, you can only admire it.’ Taylor was not the only one to have highly appreciated a precious stone’s intimate embrace; a number of other women are also known to value the idea of adding a slight chic glint to their wardrobe.
   Jewellery brand Charlene K has won the hearts of many top female celebrities including Eva Longoria, Tyra Banks, Audrina Patridge, Taylor Armstrong, Julia Ling, Reese Witherspoon and other fashionably chic women in Hollywood. Charlene K is described as ‘contemporary, classic, trendy, and perfect for any occasion.’ As we look through the brand’s vast range of different pieces we understand to what extent they can be revealed as exclusively hip and stylish as they shimmer and shine. The pieces underline the wearer’s allure and refined appeal. The Charlene K collection consists of highly radiant and rare gemstones that are extremely attractive and fashionable. The collection varies from overly sophisticated to very simple and sweet.
   The accessory brand was founded by Teong Kay and his wife Gigi. The brand is named after the couple’s daughter, Charlene. Teong’s thirty-year experience in the fashion industry began with two successful dress companies he founded earlier on, Pave Couture and Saint Romei. Both collections were soon sold in famous high-end stores such as Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. It was not until 2005 that Teong and his wife created creative jewellery pieces that would come to life and become a luxurious feature amongst celebrities and fashion aficionados. The jewellery collection comprises wonderfully artistic pieces with rare gemstones from stunning turquoise, attractive amethyst, to majestic onyx of a fascinating deep black texture; the pieces are beautifully balanced with a mix of gold, rose gold or sterling silver. An instant magnificent flare is evoked as the wearer indulges in fabulous pieces of luxury. In order to fulfil one’s taste, one may choose from a number of designs depending upon one’s desire and personal preference.
   When speaking to Teong during Accessories The Show, a three-day event at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York on January 8–10, he enthusiastically presented an array of pieces featured in his lovely collection. His brand could be found in hundreds of stores in America as well as in Canada, London, China, Korea, Puerto Rico, Saudi Arabia and Europe. Charlene K not only travels across the world revealing stunning creations, it also flutters amongst high-end fashion-lovers who are looking for a special flash of shine that many find in the beauty that hides within a simple jewel.—Lola Saab, Paris Editor

Charlene K
Courtesy Charlene K

Above Charlene K’s press clippings show numerous celebrities wearing its jewellery.

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January 28, 2012

We’ll Take Manhattan: the impact of David Bailey and Jean Shrimpton revisited

Jack Yan/21.37

Jean Shrimpton in Vogue
Bailey, copyright ©1965 by the Condé Nast Publications (UK)

We'll Take Manhattan
BBC/Kudos

Compare the pair. Top Jean Shrimpton, as she appeared in Vogue shot by Bailey in 1965. Above Karen Gillan and Aneurin Barnard as Jean Shrimpton and David Bailey in a publicity shot for We’ll Take Manhattan, which aired last week on BBC4.

The visitor stats have been very clear: one of the most searched-terms at Lucire has been David Bailey and Jean Shrimpton over the last few days.
   Presumably, it’s due to BBC4’s We’ll Take Manhattan, a TV film about a ground-breaking New York shoot by David Bailey and his model and lover, Jean Shrimpton. The shoot defined, according to the programme, the 1960s.
   As previewed in Lucire, the BBC4 film starred Karen Gillan (Doctor Who) and Aneurin Barnard as the couple. While it took a little while to get going—it begins with the pair boarding a jet to head to New York, then goes into flashback—with the charged arguments between Bailey and Vogue fashion editor Lady Clare Rendlesham occupying a great deal of the action once the story gets back on track. The centre of the argument: that it’s the 1960s, that Bailey wants to catch more liveliness, and that the stuffy portraits shown in British Vogue—which had, of course, covered the Coronation the decade before with HM the Queen and aristocratic ladies-in-waiting—were a thing of the past.
   Of course it’s idealized, but it’s not too far from the truth when the film claims that Bailey and the Shrimp defined the decade.
   The forces had been coming in for a while, but perhaps not with the youthquake that the Bailey represented after national service was abolished in 1962 and there was plenty of youthful energy around Britain. Technological changes in the 1950s and the telephoto lens already meant fashion photographers were experimenting with more lively shots, and Vogue photographers such as Irving Penn, Norman Parkinson and Antony Armstrong-Jones (later Lord Snowdon) were capturing moments that the magazine’s readers would not have seen the decade before. While staged, they appeared to be casual moments, with the model seemingly living her life in the editorials.
   What Bailey did was take this into raw sexiness, tapping correctly into the Zeitgeist. Starting at British Vogue in July 1960, Bailey had in fact met Shrimpton while she was being shot for a cornflakes advertisement by Brian Duffy. And unlike the film, Bailey was actually very grateful for the gig and knew what British Vogue was: ‘When Vogue offered to pay me to photograph beautiful women all day I thought I was on a dream-boat.’
   Gillan captures the innocent country girl that Shrimpton was at that point, which makes the transformation into ’60s sex icon all the more poignant. Never mind posh locations with Bailey: the Shrimp was on the floor, legs akimbo, complete with teddy bear or another prop. Skirts got shorter, progressively so till 1966, and Jean Shrimpton and her long legs modelled plenty in the decade. It might not be inaccurate to say that Shrimpton was the 1960s supermodel, along with Twiggy—certainly they were two of the most recognized women in Britain.
   Vogue had gone from being a magazine read by the well-to-do lady to one that reached the masses—and for the first time, its pages even became pin-ups.
   Bailey has remained in the public eye with his ongoing work, though Shrimpton has opted for a quieter life, running a country hotel. Both had reportedly approved of the script, which showed them in a positive light—though given Shrimpton’s silence over the years, we’re guessing it must have had some verisimilitude for her to give it the nod.
   There were some glaring mistakes—a 2005 Chevrolet taxi zooms by in a 1962 scene in New York—and Mad Men it was not, neither in feel nor in execution. Where Kudos was once known for lavish productions—Life on Mars springs to mind—some corners felt cut, probably thanks to the recession and the difficulty of securing locations that still looked “’sixties enough” in New York. It lacked the pace of another winter BBC film around this time last year: Eric and Ernie, covering the pre-fame period of Eric Morecambe and Ernie Wise.
   But, on the other hand, period Vogue covers were faithfully re-created, the wardrobe department did extremely well securing period costumes, and Frances Barber stole the show with her portrayal of Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland in the New York scenes. And it summed up the period well: while a telemovie will take liberties with history, there was no denying that Bailey and Shrimpton were influential and very deserving subjects.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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