The last day of fashion week in Milano: Lucire has videos from Dsquared², Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli and Gianfranco Ferré. The day saw an extravagant closing of the Cavalli show by supermodel Naomi Campbell.
Dsquared² showed an autumn–winter 2012–13 collection based around a 1963–4 American high school class, and girls raiding their mothers’ wardrobes for dances and the prom. It was a fun collection where the theme translated well on to the catwalk: humorous, up front, and still stylish.
Giorgio Armani went with masculine styles but said that he wanted them to be light and wearable. Models came out in fedoras before donning wide-brimmed hats, while the loose suits and A-line dresses emphasized the easy chic that Armani wanted to show. It was the colours that got us: usually known for more subdued tones, Armani wasn’t afraid to inject pinks and oranges into autumn, and did so very successfully. A perfect show for the final day at Milano.
Roberto Cavalli impressed with his show, with 39,000 roses on the runway arranged in a tiger pattern, to supermodel Naomi Campbell in the finalé. The craftsmanship was evident: Cavalli created some of his prints by hand, painting them on to canvas; they were even reproduced in crystal. The trade-mark animal prints were on full show, with heavy use of animal skins and furs.
Stefan Citron and Federico Piaggi, at Gianfranco Ferré, toned things down for the label, and their oversized lapels and collars worked on their coats and dresses. Panel dresses and gloves distinguished this collection. We were impressed by the geometric cuts, which again remind us that style is so often not about ornamentation, but the lack of it. Citron and Piaggi understand the importance of getting the foundation right.
Dsquared²
Giorgio Armani
Roberto Cavalli
Gianfranco Ferré