Our latest three videos from Paris Fashion Week’s autumn–winter 2012–13 shows are from Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf and Vivienne Westwood Gold Label.
Haider Ackermann showed one of the best collections at Paris this season: a dramatic, stylish affair with an ingenious use of folds and ﬂaps in his jackets, high-waisted trousers, curved panelled skirts, and a range of colours from amber to aubergine.
It would be too simple to say Viktor & Rolf used black, white and gold—and a lot of fur again—but the cleverness was in the details. The jumpsuits that began the show had a gridded print, something echoed later on with the furs, before moving on to jackets cinched at the waist, and rufﬂed and luxurious evening gowns. This was a romantic, feminine collection with a sense of ﬁlm noir, a theme that had crept up in both Milano and Paris.
Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label also went for a substantial, angular look to jackets and coats, while she went to town with a multi-colour pattern for some of her jackets, blouses and dresses. We saw corseted dresses and hooded cloaks, stylistically uniﬁed the Dame’s vision of London—one that was anarchic (which, given the riots a few years back, it could be). She acknowledged changing times and how the past could not be re-created, and the Gold collection purposefully demonstrated how the future will always be different—and even surprisingly refreshing.
Viktor & Rolf