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February 10, 2013

New York Fashion Week fall 2013, day 3: Lacoste, Ruffian, Jill Stuart, Marissa Webb, Mara Hoffman, Hervé Léger, Rafael Cennamo

Lucire staff/9.22

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Courtesy designers

Above left Mara Hoffman. Above right Hervé Léger.

Our Facebook members will have seen what confronted our photographer, Stephen Ciuccoli, as he started his day: Nemo, the winter 2013 storm, burying his Land Rover Discovery in snow.
   Nevertheless, the show goes on. Lacoste’s autumn–winter 2013–14 collection had a sportswear feel. As with yesterday’s Nautica show, with Ernest Shackleton as its inspiration, Felipe Oliveira Baptista took the idea of polar expeditions—but arrived at a distinctive collection. We loved his play with translucent materials, an inventive and subtle use of volume, and zippers conveying the sporting style. Baptista lifted the mood of the audience.
   Brian Wolk and Claude Morais at Ruffian took us on a retro journey, blending Victoriana, English tailoring, and an equestrian style into their fall look. Marles and blacks dominated but it was never dull: tassels, zippers, high boots and skilful layering meant Ruffian was, in fact, a breath of fresh air.
   Jill Stuart showed a delightfully girly collection: think floaty party dresses, flirty skirts, peek-a-boo sleeves and peplums, in lace, chiffon and silk. But in case the Jill Stuart girl gets cold this winter, there were wool coats and jackets to keep her warm and covered up. Stuart picked up everyone’s moods and we can’t wait to see these on the sidewalks this autumn.
   If Stuart was girly, Marissa Webb, formerly of J. Crew, went after the woman in her second collection. Webb is fast establishing her look and market, and her æsthetic, we think, is going to be very recognizable very quickly. Wool coats, pencil skirts, leather pants, all with tidy tailoring. Everything was just right, from the colours (black, grey, cream) to the market-worthy approach in Webb’s design.
   Mara Hoffman brought a stylish, rustic chic to proceedings, with bold and bright prints, and lots of symmetry and stripes. With inspiration seemingly coming from all over the globe, the models were perfectly accessorized with earring chains linking behind their hair. It was a memorable collection, and bound to find favour.
   If days one and two saw beanies and hoodies, then Hervé Léger forecasts hats, or, more specifically, baseball caps. Designer Max Azria gave us bold, oversized patterns, harnesses, and digital animal prints, all with a sense of rebellion. The notes say that Azria was inspired by the surrealist sculpting duo Les Lalanne—if not in colour (largely black and white) then in the appliqués on the dresses that were likely inspired by the individual pieces of the sculptures.
   Our final video is from Rafael Cennamo, who delighted in playing with volume, structure and silhouettes, with a lavish use of gold, extending to headgear, resembling clockwork, worn by the models.

Lacoste

Ruffian

Jill Stuart

Marissa Webb

Mara Hoffman

Courtesy Mara Hoffman

Hervé Léger

Courtesy Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Rafael Cennamo

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