Custo Barcelona

Above Custo Barcelona showed an androgynous collection at New York Fashion Week on Sunday. Below Colours galore: a close-up of accessories at Trina Turk’s New York Fashion Week début.

Trina Turk

It doesn’t seem long ago when we attended Tracy Reese’s first show at New York Fashion Week. Now that Reese is a household name—US First Lady Michelle Obama is a fan—her collections are much more closely watched. For autumn–winter 2013–14, Reese showed animal prints, with strong colours, including bronze, orange, pink, scarlet and teal. Tying in with the animal theme was a Siamese cat named Lily in one model’s arms—Purina One was a sponsor. Florals were another Reese theme for fall, with the designer telling us that it’s OK to mix prints and be a little more adventurous.
   And if it’s colour you’re after, Custo Barcelona never fails to disappoint. Having described their collection earlier as ‘beauty and the beast’, Custo and David Dalmau actually kept the colour palette more subdued than in previous outings. The variety was there, just not the dazzle—but it was done to good effect. Patchwork, tribal prints, leather panels and sequins were the order of the day and, it should be noted, fur.
   The beast was there—there was plenty of wildness, blending masculine (khaki and military-style belts) and feminine (mosaics and fabric overlays), while earthy colours contrasted with gold details. Custo showed florals, too, so those in to flower power will still feel at home this autumn–winter.
   We know Trina Turk’s name so well that it’s hard to believe this is her Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York début. Then we realize that, despite being a familiar name out in California, this was her first showing at the Tents, in her label’s 17-year history. And she brought a bit of that Californian sunshine to the catwalk, even if it remained chilly outside. Turk played with colour—greens, plums, reds, navies and purples—and adorned her models with vintage hats. Californians don’t exactly have freezing winters, so spring-like colours helped lift the mood—and will help lift the mood for customers who opt for Turk’s California cool in six months’ time.
   Finally, we’ve only been provided with videos from Second Layer, Katya Leonovich, Son Jung Wan and Alon Livne today, and we make up for yesterday’s omissions from New York Fashion Week below.

Second Layer

Katya Leonovich

Son Jung Wan

Alon Livne

Tracy Reese

Custo Barcelona

Trina Turk