Lucire

Lucire: News

Share 


«
»


February 13, 2013

New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies

Lucire staff/12.56

Pin It


Frazer Harrison/Getty Images


Jennifer Graylock/Getty Images

Top Marc by Marc Jacobs. Above Pamella Roland.

Days five and six at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York have seen Kaufmanfranco, Hernan Lander, Mathieu Mirano, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Badgley Mischka, Jenny Packham and Naeem Khan.
   Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco’s début collection at New York Fashion Week featured a lot of leather, whether it be on miniskirts, jackets, pants or coats, using a good girl–bad girl theme. The duo continued with daring plunge dresses, which we had seen in earlier collections from Kaufmanfranco, and which still suit the autumn–winter 2013–14 season.
   We’ve been attending Pamella Roland’s collections for some time, and this year, Roland has continued on a glamorous direction. From Russia with Love was an ornate, sumptuous collection, inspired by the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. Think gold brocade, silk georgette, lace, and faux fur.
   Reem Acra took her inspiration from Japan, including photographs of women in fishnet stockings from artist Daido Moriyama. It was all tastefully done: Acra used plenty of black and silver, with dashes of red, and her gowns were impressive, from a mandarin-collar silk dress to a peplum tulle ball gown. If women opt for Reem Acra this fall, we’ll be seeing plenty of femmes fatales on the red carpet.
   Marc by Marc Jacobs went back to the 1970s: think jumpsuits, wide lapels and busy prints. In the feeling the collection elicited, it’s less The Mary Tyler Moore Show—it wasn’t as clean as what Mary Richards donned. It was, maybe, a bit more Rhoda—and based on reactions at Lincoln Center, that’s no bad thing.
   Vera Wang gave what she called ‘easy, sexy glamour’, playing with silhouettes and volume, including gathering, ruffled peplums and dolman sleeves, while injecting purple and bronze into her palette. Wang used Chantilly lace and brocade, giving her collection a beautiful, delicate feel.
   Marc Badgley and James Mischka were inspired by Hitchcock’s leading ladies, including Kim Novak (in Vertigo) and Grace Kelly (in Rear Window). There were film noir influences, too, with Novak as their muse. We saw stunning, beaded gowns as well as crêpe dresses and a tweed suit—but all with a 21st century vibe.
   Jenny Packham also went the gown route for autumn–winter, in a collection called La Salonniere, focusing on glamour and sophistication. She was inspired by the Salon movement in the mid-17th century, and her collection pulled off this theme, with rich colours, satin, tulle, silk chiffon, beading, full skirts and embellishments.


Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Above Kaufmanfranco.

Kaufmanfranco

Hernan Lander

Mathieu Mirano

Pamella Roland

Reem Acra

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Vera Wang

Badgley Mischka

Jenny Packham

Naeem Khan

Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Delicious Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Digg Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Facebook Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Fark Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Google+ Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on LinkedIn Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Newsvine Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Orkut Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Pinterest Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on reddit Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on StumbleUpon Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Twitter Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on vk.com Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Email Share 'New York Fashion Week fall 2013, days 5 and 6: from Kaufmanfranco’s début to Badgley Mischka’s Hitchcock ladies' on Print Friendly

 

Get more from Lucire

Our latest issue

Lucire 33
Check out our lavish print issue of Lucire in hard copy or for Ipad or Android.
Or download the latest issue of Lucire as a PDF from Scopalto

Lucire on Twitter
Lucire on Instagram