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February 14, 2013

New York Fashion Week fall 2013, day 7: Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Brandon Sun, J. Mendel

Lucire staff/13.19

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Michael Kors

We’re nearing the end of New York Fashion Week—but we notice that our photographer, Doug Rimington, is all set for London Fashion Week, which we will bring you shortly.
   Michael Kors (above) showed a confident fall 2013 collection, with a sense of urban cool and futurism that had long been absent from catwalks. Unlike what we might deem as retrofuturism—the space race and love of the future that we saw in the 1960s—Kors’s vision saw bold colours, sharp angles, wide belts, large zips, and lines apeing scuba gear. Even when he was being more restrained with black and houndstooth, he was adventurous with his lines, especially with the layers on his skirts.
   We’ve attended almost all of Nanette Lepore’s shows since she started, and this season, she took a space-age theme. Lepore says her collection was inspired by the mission to Mars, which meant the black of space contrasted with olive green and the red of the red planet, with shimmery textures, accessorized by hologram shoes, neat high heels and handbags—which, we might add, bear her label, too. So while Nanette Lepore’s autumn–winter 2013–14 collection should be on your shopping list, she might be able to tempt you a little more with her handbags and shoes.
   Brandon Sun went edgy and dark (navy, black, grey and dark green) for fall, with biker jackets and long coats, with fur, satin, mink and wool in his presentation. Sun has an excellent understanding of fur—years at J. Mendel helped him hone that—but he has taken his æsthetic further, with bows, scarves and lapels providing a layered effect.
   And J. Mendel, Sun’s former employer, also showed on day seven, but in the afternoon. Gilles Mendel was inspired by painter Gerhard Richter, which meant mixing textures and materials, and his gowns were inspired by Guy Bourdin’s photography. There were lovely mink coats, biker jackets, a turtleneck sweater, and silk chiffon gowns with mink trim. Mendel continues the colour-blocking trend for his dresses, and went with panelling for his jackets.

Michael Kors

Nanette Lepore

Brandon Sun

J. Mendel

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