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February 16, 2013

London Fashion Week autumn–winter 2013–14, day one: from Zoë Jordan to PPQ, plus video

Lucire staff/2.37


Douglas Rimington/www.detunephotography.com

Above An elegant yellow wool coat at PPQ, the last show on the first day of London Fashion Week.

While Doug Rimington shoots some stunning photographs for our print edition, we can bring you a full set of autumn–winter 2013–14 videos from London Fashion Week. Our videos begin with the day one build-up, through to catwalk shows from Zoë Jordan, Bora Aksu, Fyodor Golan, KTZ, Felder Felder, Jena Theo, Jean-Pierre Braganza, the Headonism installation, hosted by Stephen Jones, PPQ, and a day one highlight reel.
   Zoë Jordan was inspired by architecture—this time the baroque cathedrals of Italy—and a dose of postmodernism, with prints featuring the Duomo’s interior and sculpture, and graphic images of cityscapes and skyscrapers. Bora Aksu went back to the 1920s, with a collection inspired by Rosie and Jenny Dolly, featuring flapper dresses and corsets, and scallop edges and embellishments. His was a largely neutral colour palette initially, but fuchsia and pink brightened up his autumn–winter 2013–14 vision as the collection progressed.
   At the Savoy’s ballroom, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman of Fyodor Golan were inspired by Luis Buñuel’s film Belle de jour, with complex dresses in silk chiffon and organza featuring pleating, folding and embroidery. The most bizarre moment was a model wearing a huge circular headdress, matching her dress, obscuring her face. KTZ covered faces with its tarot- and clairvoyant-themed collection, too, with knives and horns emerging from black masks, while the duo of Marjan Pejoski and Koji Maruyama made extensive use of leather in the clothes themselves. Twins Annette and Daniela Felder showed beautiful tailoring, especially with its trench coats and jackets, with a palette of burgundy, black and navy.
   Jena Theo, the partnership between Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis, attracted a large audience to its show at Somerset House, with a vibrant colour palette (orange, pink, green, fuchsia) and an equally vibrant inspiration of Hunter S. Thompson’s gonzo journalism in Hell’s Angels.
   Jean-Pierre Braganza’s autumn–winter 2013–14 collection had a science fiction theme, characterized by geometric and gradient prints, with a base palette of black and grey. PPQ, closing off day one, showed colourful puffball dresses, colour-blocked wool coats, and daring and fun eveningwear, ending everyone’s moods on a high.

Build-up

Zoë Jordan

Bora Aksu

Fyodor Golan

KTZ

Felder Felder

Jena Theo

Jean-Pierre Braganza

Headonism installation, hosted by Stephen Jones

PPQ

Day 1 highlights

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