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February 9, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2014–15, day three videos

Lucire staff/8.17

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Our day three videos from New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2014–15 are up, from Ruffian, Hervé Léger by Max Azria, Lacoste, Adeam, Mara Hoffman, Monique Lhuillier, Jill Stuart, Koonhor, Iván Aguilar, and the Asia Fashion Collection, while we also feature “studio stops” at Ruffian, Vivienne Tam (who shows tomorrow), and Bibhu Mohapatra.
   Ruffian was an enjoyable and upbeat way to kick off day three, with rich fabrics and florals, though keeping with the fall trend of blacks as the base colour. Hervé Léger by Max Azria similarly had a black base but contrasted with beading and trim, including ‘cage corsets’, an update of the label’s bandage dresses. Feathers and fur were used generously, along with shredded hems. Iván Aguilar gave day three an upbeat Brazilian vibe with his first collection in New York with something more sexy, revelling in volume with large collars and sleeves, and beige replaced black in a welcome way. Jill Stuart also played with volumes, with coats and maxi capes contrasting with mini-dresses—definitely a highlight of Saturday’s shows.
   Kati Stern of Venexiana gave lovely, glamorous gowns, with her usual sumptuous fabrics, forecasting a figure-hugging fall on the world’s red carpets. Monique Lhuillier also forecasted a narrower silhouette with some frills as distractions, though by the second half of her show the theme was wide, flowing gowns and with prints and lace. We loved it. If there was a collection that deserved the adjective beautiful on day three, then it was Mara Hoffman’s: Moroccan-inspired prints and exquisite beading, with jacquard and silk, and richly embellished maxi-dresses. Adeam’s effect was lighter: designer Hanako Maeda went for powdery shades and lighter greys for her frocks, in a collection inspired by Yasunari Kawabata’s 1935 love story Yukiguni (雪国, translated to Snow Country). Lacoste had a relaxed style and its blacks and dark blues were offset, too, by beiges and greys, in Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection, inspired by a visit to Chantaco. South Korean-born Son Jung Wan was also happy to go against black with dark blues and golds, also putting volume to good use.
   The Asia Fashion Collection incubator, supported by Vantan and Parco, brought together designers from the orient, with a selection by the Taiwan Textile Federation and Hong Kong Trade Development Council, and students from the Vantan Design Institute. There was everything from old-school glamour to boho chic, and gowns to microskirts, while music went from instrumental to French to highlight the international flavour of this catwalk show.
   Day four begins at 11 a.m. EST with Lela Rose, which you can catch on our live player. Also on the schedule for Sunday are David Tlale, Katya Zol, Custo Barcelona, Park Choo Moo, Vivienne Tam, Georgine, and Meskita.

Ruffian

Vivienne Tam

Bibhu Mohapatra

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Lacoste

Adeam

Mara Hoffman

Monique Lhuillier

Jill Stuart

Koonhor

Ivan Aguilar

Asia Fashion Collection

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