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February 11, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2014–15, day five videos

Lucire staff/12.50

We had an enjoyable day five at New York Fashion Week’s fall 2014 shows—a day which would have to be the most glamorous out of them all so far. Below are videos from Mathieu Mirano, Noon by Noor, Dennis Basso, Carolina Herrera, Milly by Michelle Smith, Brian Lichtenberg, Angel Sanchez, Alon Livné, Katya Leonovich, and Reem Acra. WGSN’s Sue Evans weighs in in the final video on fall trends.
   A day five highlight, for us, was Zac Posen. We’ve covered Posen since he began showing at New York Fashion Week, and his fall–winter 2014–15 vision demonstrates just why he is a master of red-carpet looks. Here is a designer who understands that the beauty is in the details and the cuts, not showering us with multiple inspirations; and the cocktail dresses and evening gowns, with tangerine, ruby and forest green brightening the catwalks. Donna Karan celebrated her 30th anniversary in style with glamorous gowns, too; but it was low cuts and high splits that marked out her sexy vision for fall.
   Reem Acra built the glamour quotient for Monday, too, with column dresses and embroidery pointing in a lighter direction. Mathieu Mirano blended the ideas of motorcycle gangs with the crown jewels, and it was his use of leather on bodices and jackets that we loved, especially since he pulled off an elegant style with his designs. Sequins, furs, fringes and pencil skirts—Mirano was spot-on with his fall collection.
   Noon by Noor’s Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa were inspired by crystals and minerals, expressed with geometric patterns, prints and embellishments, with a colour palette that included a pale blue–grey, purple and yellow. Angel Sanchez went with minimalism and transparency, in an edgy collection he called Dark Innocence. Dennis Basso had a rich collection with voluminous skirts, sequins and fur coats, and that richness extended to royal colours—blues, emeralds and purples among them. Milly by Michelle Smith had a ballet inspiration, using layers to good effect, along with furs, tulle and fringes.
   Katya Leonovich showed a collection that felt “21st century” in an almost retrofuturistic way. Asymmetry and geometry, along with metallic fabrics, were key themes, but executed with an eye on the 1960s and Edie Sedgwick. Alon Livné went back to art-déco and Art Nouveau, and showed both simple, beautifully cut gowns as well as fringes and beading, a nod to the 2014 trends.
   Carolina Herrera’s fall–winter 2014–15 collection used geometry and impactful graphics, along with beautiful silks and cashmere. We loved her gowns and sumptuous coats, and this had to be one of the most balanced collections with the right mix of restraint (thanks to the cuts and Herrera’s understanding of elegance) and embellishment (embroidery, pleating and prints).
   Day six features J. Crew (beginning at 9.30 a.m. EST), followed by Badgley Mischka, Libertine, Naeem Khan, Concept Korea and Pamella Roland at 6 p.m. You can catch these on our live player.

Mathieu Mirano

Noon by Noor

Dennis Basso

Carolina Herrera

Milly by Michelle Smith

Brian Lichtenberg

Angel Sanchez

Alon Livné

Katya Leonovich

Reem Acra

WGSN’s Sue Evans on fall trends

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