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August 27, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day two: from softly and rosy to Zambesi’s superheroes

Sopheak Seng/16.05

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Fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng, and photographer Matthew Beveridge, cover day two of New Zealand Fashion Week, with Pardon My French, Lucy McIntosh, the NZ Weddings show, Pia, Andrea Moore and I AM, Juliette Hogan and Zambesi.

Pardon My French
   Vibe: ’Sixties beatniks with a touch of glamour.
   Clothes: Skinny leather pants spliced with rose gold zips and ponte, houndstooth composed of flying swallows, turtlenecks, oversized cocoon coats, draped skirts and dresses crafted in shades of beige, white, black and greys, all paired with ballet flats, a floppy beret and chunky hosiery.
   Look: Poker straight hair by Sara Allsop of Dharma for GHD and smoky kohl-rimmed eyes by Samantha Holley for MAC.

Lucy McIntosh
   Vibe: Grungy punk seen through a refined, modern eye.
   Clothes: Androgynous and structured coats and jackets in fine cashmere wools—full-length or blazer, there were different variations with some in the new shape of the double-breasted vest. Mini- and midi-length pleated skirts all worn underneath. Almost an ’80s throwback. The stand-out was the rose-print jacquard that featured on pants and jackets.
   Look: Messy dirty glamour hair with a touch of bronze on the cheeks and nude lips.

NZ Weddings show
   Vibe: Bridal and all things cute and white.
   Clothes: Gowns upon gowns of lace, tulle and sheer. Stand-outs were Hera Bridal with their über-cute children’s range of flower-girl dresses; and the Mint lace and tulle dress. The show signalled the death of the strapless gown as well as the princess style, as there were more streamline gowns on show, with cut-out detailing and a focus on the back. Crane Brothers and Barkers both showed great grooms’ attire with Barkers offering up a shorts option for the fashion-brave.
   Look: soft goddess cascading curls with romantic blushing bridal make-up.


Pia
   Vibe: Cruisy summer days at the pier.
   Clothes: Considering she is known for her graphic digital prints, there was not a lot of that on show as the focus was more on garments in solid colours of beige, white chambray, soft mints and blush pinks. The only prints that were featured were strawberries, watermelons and anchors, which all felt derivative. New shapes in tunics and fabrics provided interest as did the Adidas slides with white sport socks.
   Look: Beach–boho hair with a slick of white eyeshadow that looked zinc-like.

Andrea Moore and I AM
   Vibe: Surrealism meets ’70s Charlie’s Angels and a bit of Studio 54; I AM was athletic sport-luxe.
   Clothes: Great coats in a cacophony of colour from emerald, through to beet pink and cobalt blue. Dresses and jumpsuits featured heavily in the collection as did lace and faux fur. Stand-outs were the striped faux fur coat and fur-trimmed bags, and Moore’s new venture into eyewear and jewellery. A great deal of editing wouldn’t go amiss; however, it was good to see the brand expanding into a whole lifestyle idea.
   Look: ’Seventies Farrah Fawcett blow-outs, bouncy hair with bright fuchsia and burgundy lips.

Juliette Hogan
   Vibe: Juliette Hogan goes dark grunge.
   Clothes: Typical Juliette Hogan with a focus on all things feminine: pleated skirts and moody florals featured throughout the collection. However, it was the final pieces in the collection that really stood out: a floor-length sequinned maxi-skirt with casual T-shirt paired with white New Balance sneakers as well as the full floor-length gown in the same fabric. They gave us something new to the Hogan brand we have all come to know and love. Heavy on the black. A live band also gave something unique. Having to wait for over an hour for the start wore thin, but this was a show which lightened the mood of the weary guests.
   Look: Clean, fresh-faced beauties, chic New Yorker.

Zambesi
   Vibe: Futuristic superheroes, Flash Gordon song on repeat with strobes of blue and bright white lights and Zambesi decal on the runway.
   Clothes: No sequins or sheer in sight: the focus was on soft tailoring as well as structured suiting and casually cool clothes. Palette of black, cerulean blue, grey, khaki, olive, and touches of mauve and lilac. Stand-outs were the dressing gown-style coats in the softest of wools, the oversized knitwear, the cerulean blue boots, the tone-on-tone suits as well as the giant XXXV logo (commemorating Zambesi’s 35 years in business) blankets that were worn as capes, superhero-style, by the models.
   Look: Faux hawk fins that ran down the centre of the females, as well as the clip-in extensions for the male models, it was all about texture and grit. Fresh-faced.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor


 

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