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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, spring–summer 2015, days 1 and 2: the global traveller advances


NEWS
Filed by Sopheak Seng/September 6, 2014/20.06


Lola Cristall and Maitland Waters will file their end-of-week report from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, but, in the meantime, fashion editor Sopheak Seng has spotted his favourites from the first two days of the spring–summer 2015 shows.

Nicole Miller


   Vibe: Summer holidays in Rio.
   Clothes: Fresh floral tropical prints in sharp cut-out dresses and pants, graphic black-and-white wave print on coats and jackets, as well as skirts. Flounces on hems of dresses and skirts recalled the South American vibe that Miller drew upon for her collection. What stood out was the opening outfit, the cross-front dress with the tight fit silhouette and its flounce hem: the playful nature carried the collection as well as the final pieces which had flowers and fruits embroidered in sequins.
   Look: Beachy waves, sun-kissed faces, holiday glamour.

Zimmermann

   Vibe: 1970s hippie tarot readers meets modern day beach glamour.
   Clothes: Soft, floaty and ethereal was the call of the day, with ruffles and flounces a-plenty at the Zimmermann show. The opening was a beautiful wisteria-coloured lace gown with tiered gathers and asymmetric neckline; the collection then moved to masculine and feminine juxtaposition playing throughout the collection with floaty dresses paired with military-style parkas, with cargo pockets or pinstripe vests and tailored suit jackets. Stand-outs were the swimsuits, particularly the black one-piece halter with giant bow detailing, the opening dress as well as the peachy coral-coloured pant suit with cascading asymmetric ruffle blouse.
   Look: Centre-parted gypsy folk hair with sleek ponytails and flushed coral cheeks.


Tome


   Vibe: Uptown girl meets Indian maharanis.
   Clothes: Glamorous clothes infused with a touch of India in the sari-style asymmetric crop tops and ties. The sleeveless trench-style coats with the duo colour lapels, gorgeous pleated skirts in shades of saffron, rose and black. The Rajastani men’s-style shirts with waist sashes, the Madame Grès-inspired pleated gowns that finished the show, and the floral embellished shell tops were all stand-outs.
   Look: Simple, elegant chic fish braids with orchids.

Tadashi Shoji


   Vibe: Elegance and beauty in Venezia.
   Clothes: Inspired by the famous golden palace in Venezia, the Ca’ d’Oro, and its reflections, there was a lightness and glow in this collection. The restrained beauty of the collection started from the first look of the white lace trench dress. The collection featured, heavily, lace, tulle, organza and lots and lots of pleats. All of this did not feel forced as it would have been in anyone else’s hands. The collection of caped gowns should make for some very stand-out red carpet moments come awards’ season. The beautiful collared shirts and shirt dresses crafted in lace and organza were stand-outs as well as the use of mesh piecing in some of the dresses felt fresh.
   Look: Elegant chignons and fresh-faced beauties.

Nicholas K


   Vibe: Urban nomadic warrior.
   Clothes: Nomadic draped sportswear, inspired by a road trip to Morocco. The brother–sister designer duo gave great sport luxe separates that are made for living and travelling in. Fatigue-style jackets and trousers were the order of the day as were draped and fringed skirts and dresses designed for the urban nomad. Standouts were the draped hooded jackets and knicker-boxers in silk as were the leather jackets. Accessorized with horsehair jewellery by Victoria Simes and lace-up heels by Kiyoon Baek, these collaborations added a sophisticated edge to the collection.
   Look: Sun-kissed skin and sleek nomadic hair.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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