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February 10, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2014–15, day four videos

Lucire staff/9.46

After day four at the New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2014–15 collections, we have videos from David Tlale, Katya Zol, Lela Rose, Custo Barcelona, Parkchoonmoo, Georgine, Vivienne Tam, DKNY and Meskita. Today (day five), we’ll follow Mathieu Mirano, Caroline Herrera, Noon by Noor, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Milly by Michelle Smith, Katya Leonovichii and Reem Acra, which you can catch on our live player beginning at 9 a.m. EST.
   This was the day of brighter colours and more upbeat moods, if days one through three were about black and grey. Then again, this was also the day of Custo Barcelona, whose shows—ever since we began covering them for the fall 1999 season—have been happy affairs, along with Betsey Johnson’s. In Custo’s case, it has been Custo Dalmau’s willingness to inject colour and vibrancy into each collection without proceedings becoming stale, and fall 2014 is no exception. There were more furs and layering returned in a big way, which points to greater volumes coming into play for the season.
   But Lela Rose and Meskita were happy to depart from black, too, with gold, magenta and silks for the former, and Alessandra Meskita went away from earthy tones for more royal blues, burgundies, pinks and icy whites. Katya Zol also made good use of icy shades, as well as some seemingly comfortable leather trousers, while her models had a single line of gold down the centre of their faces. Parkchoonmoo was all about boldness, enjoyable geometric prints and glitter—and did so in refined fashion. Prints were also the order of the day at Czar by Cesar Galindo. Georgine went for luxury, with furs and silks, along with a helping of prints; and South African-born David Tlale, too, delivered elegant, refined and flowing looks with silk and gold ornamentation lifting his designs further.
   Vivienne Tam, meanwhile, derived her digital print design from inspiration from cave murals in Dunhuang, China. The prints were exquisite and detailed, and Tam managed to bring elements of her Chinese culture into the collection in a way that has cross-cultural appeal.
   The colour accolade, however, falls not with Custo on day four, surprisingly, but Diane von Furstenberg, with reds and cobalt blues lifting black and gold geometric prints as the designer also celebrated the 40th anniversary of her wrap dress. Her collection, cheekily entitled Bohemian Wrapsody, is about ‘A glamorous vagabond, she is on the run with her dreams and color.’ And that’s definitely, in the words of our Anna Deans, a wrap.

David Tlale

Katya Zol

Lela Rose

Custo Barcelona

Parkchoonmoo

Georgine

Vivienne Tam

DKNY

Meskita

Czar by Cesar Galindo

At the Pavilion

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February 9, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2014–15, day three videos

Lucire staff/8.17

Our day three videos from New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2014–15 are up, from Ruffian, Hervé Léger by Max Azria, Lacoste, Adeam, Mara Hoffman, Monique Lhuillier, Jill Stuart, Koonhor, Iván Aguilar, and the Asia Fashion Collection, while we also feature “studio stops” at Ruffian, Vivienne Tam (who shows tomorrow), and Bibhu Mohapatra.
   Ruffian was an enjoyable and upbeat way to kick off day three, with rich fabrics and florals, though keeping with the fall trend of blacks as the base colour. Hervé Léger by Max Azria similarly had a black base but contrasted with beading and trim, including ‘cage corsets’, an update of the label’s bandage dresses. Feathers and fur were used generously, along with shredded hems. Iván Aguilar gave day three an upbeat Brazilian vibe with his first collection in New York with something more sexy, revelling in volume with large collars and sleeves, and beige replaced black in a welcome way. Jill Stuart also played with volumes, with coats and maxi capes contrasting with mini-dresses—definitely a highlight of Saturday’s shows.
   Kati Stern of Venexiana gave lovely, glamorous gowns, with her usual sumptuous fabrics, forecasting a figure-hugging fall on the world’s red carpets. Monique Lhuillier also forecasted a narrower silhouette with some frills as distractions, though by the second half of her show the theme was wide, flowing gowns and with prints and lace. We loved it. If there was a collection that deserved the adjective beautiful on day three, then it was Mara Hoffman’s: Moroccan-inspired prints and exquisite beading, with jacquard and silk, and richly embellished maxi-dresses. Adeam’s effect was lighter: designer Hanako Maeda went for powdery shades and lighter greys for her frocks, in a collection inspired by Yasunari Kawabata’s 1935 love story Yukiguni (雪国, translated to Snow Country). Lacoste had a relaxed style and its blacks and dark blues were offset, too, by beiges and greys, in Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection, inspired by a visit to Chantaco. South Korean-born Son Jung Wan was also happy to go against black with dark blues and golds, also putting volume to good use.
   The Asia Fashion Collection incubator, supported by Vantan and Parco, brought together designers from the orient, with a selection by the Taiwan Textile Federation and Hong Kong Trade Development Council, and students from the Vantan Design Institute. There was everything from old-school glamour to boho chic, and gowns to microskirts, while music went from instrumental to French to highlight the international flavour of this catwalk show.
   Day four begins at 11 a.m. EST with Lela Rose, which you can catch on our live player. Also on the schedule for Sunday are David Tlale, Katya Zol, Custo Barcelona, Park Choo Moo, Vivienne Tam, Georgine, and Meskita.

Ruffian

Vivienne Tam

Bibhu Mohapatra

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Lacoste

Adeam

Mara Hoffman

Monique Lhuillier

Jill Stuart

Koonhor

Ivan Aguilar

Asia Fashion Collection

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January 20, 2014

Six young designers selected for Rotterdam museum, to exhibit alongside Viktor & Rolf, Martin Margiela

Lucire staff/9.29


Iris van Herpen/Jean Baptiste Mondino


Karl Giant

Top Iris van Herpen is among the six winners of the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge Awards. Above Olek of Poland, also on the winners’ list.

An exhibition, The Future of Fashion Is Now, will open on October 11, 2014 and run to January 18, 2015 at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam, featuring the works of Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Coppens, Martin Margiela, Hussein Chalayan, and others.
   Additionally, six young fashion designers will feature among the 60 who will exhibit, having just won the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge Awards.
   To find the emerging designers, 20 international scouts selected two or three designers for the exhibition and the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge Award. A jury of six—made up of Viktor & Rolf, Vogue Nederland editor-in-chief Karin Swerink, Vassilis Zidianakis, Han Nefkens and José Teunissen, selected the final six.
   The winners are Iris van Herpen (the Netherlands), Craig Green (Great Britain), Dolci & Kabana (Australia), Olek (Poland), Digest Design (China) and Lucco (Peru).
   The Award, the brainchild of Nefkens and Tenuissen, supports fashion talent, offering designers the opportunity of creating new work, then given on perpetual loan to the museum.
   Swerink notes that the winners ‘had to engage, inspire and surprise me. All six designers met these three criteria.’
   The six will not fly blind: the jury will assist them up to the opening, says the Museum. The public can follow the process online.
   ‘The exhibition addresses the critical position young fashion designers adopt towards the fashion system and the role of clothing in today’s society. Sustainability, new technologies and the value of clothing for the identity of an individual or a community are themes with which they open the discussion about fashion of the future,’ says the Museum.


Santos Román



Above The jury included Han Nefkens, Karin Swerink, and Viktor & Rolf.

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January 12, 2014

Bugatti shows menswear and accessories for autumn–winter 2014–15 at exclusive event

Lucire staff/12.56



Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images

Bugatti, Volkswagen AG’s most exclusive brand with its heritage in Alsace, has extended into menswear at the autumn–winter 2014–15 Milano shows, as part of what it calls its Lifestyle Brand project.
   The “blue carpet” event on Friday was held at Casa Manzoni, the home of the nineteenth-century poet Alessandro Manzoni, in association with L’Uomo Vogue, hosted by editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani and Bugatti Automobiles SAS president Wolfgang Schreiber. Guests included Gaia Trussardi, Stephen Dorff, Anna Dello Russo, Gaia Trussardi, Dean and Dan Caten, Leonardo Ferragamo, Moncler chairman Remo Ruffini, the President of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion Mario Boselli, Cecilia Capriotti and Andrea Perone, Carlo Mazzoni, Leonardo Ferragamo and his sons Pietro and Riccardo, Luca Calvani, Elke Palmaers, Carlo Borromeo, Marta Ferri, and André van Noord.
   The capsule collection, made in Italy, is meant to highlight the same values as Bugatti itself, namely ‘art, form, technique’. The clothing débuts along with an exclusive Bugatti bag.
   Fabrics for the EB (Ettore Bugatti) tailored clothing lines (Flamboyant, Formal Wear and Blue Carpet Soirée) have come from Biella, while the Bugatti Extreme Performance outdoor line uses high-tech treatments and processes. Both follow the philosophy of the cars: über-luxury through some of the highest and most exclusive technology. The company also says the collection blends ‘Italian creativity, French savoir-vivre and German engineering’.
   The collection will be sold through exclusive Bugatti boutiques, the first of which will open in Hong Kong and Beijing, highlighting where the brand’s growth markets are.









Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images










Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

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January 7, 2014

Chinese film pioneer, Sir Run Run Shaw, passes away at age 107

Lucire staff/9.18




Top Sir Run Run Shaw. Centre On the set of one of the films he produced, Meteor, with Natalie Wood, director Ronald Neame, and Sean Connery. Above Harrison Ford in Blade Runner.

Sir Run Run Shaw, the Hong Kong movie mogul and founder of television network TVB, passed away today at age 107.
   He was born near Shanghai in 1907. One of his brothers, Runje, went to Singapore in the 1920s to market films to the Chinese community in southeast Asia, and eventually opened 139 cinemas in the region. Two older brothers set up Tianyi Film Productions (or the Unique Film Production Co.) in Shanghai, which produced silent pictures and the first Chinese talkie. A Cantonese film was produced in 1932, leading to Unique setting up a branch in Hong Kong in 1934, to where the entire company eventually shifted. It was renamed South Seas Productions, then Shaw Studios.
   Run Run and his brother, Runme, were also credited with pioneering the film industry in Malaya and Singapore.
   Postwar, the brothers shifted the focus to film production and the business was renamed Shaw Brothers. In 1961, they opened Movie Town, a studio in Clearwater Bay, Hong Kong, which comprised 10 soundstages. The company produced 40 movies, mostly B-grade actioners including kung fu films, each year. This built Shaw Brothers’ library of some 1,000 films, which was sold in 2000 to Celestial Pictures.
   In 1967, he started Television Broadcasts Ltd., one of the premier television network broadcasters in the British Crown Colony. It held on to its position after the 1997 handover of Hong Kong to the People’s Republic of China. It would remain his primary interest, having shut down movie production in 1983, till he retired as chairman at age 104.
   With his philanthropy, he was knighted by HM Queen Elizabeth II in 1977, after receiving a CBE three years before. After the handover, he was awarded the Grand Bauhinia Medal in 1998.
   He also produced Meteor, which starred Sean Connery and Natalie Wood, and Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner.
   Shaw Brothers helped launch the careers of directors such as John Woo, while TVB brought Chow Yun Fat, Andy Lau, Stephen Chow and Wong Kar Wai to prominence in Hong Kong.
   They had originally contracted Bruce Lee, but were unwilling to accede to the star’s salary demands. Lee went on to sign with a rival, Raymond Chow, who himself had started at Shaws. Jackie Chan was also signed by Chow’s company.
   Tan Sri Dr Runme Shaw passed away in 1985 in Singapore, aged 84.
   He created the Shaw Prizes in 2002, which gave away US$1 million to individuals who had made significant breakthroughs in astronomy, life science and medicine, and mathematics.
   Sir Run Run Shaw passed away peacefully with family by his side, and is survived by his wife, Mona Fong Yat-Wah, his three sons and two daughters.

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December 5, 2013

Ford releases official 2015 Mustang photos and details

Jack Yan/6.45


’Stangers—diehard fans of the Ford Mustang—will have already seen it due to leaks of the official photographs half a day ago. Lucire ran the leaked photos on our Facebook page. But now, we can officially talk about the unveiling, in six cities around the world—New York, Dearborn, Michigan, Los Angeles, Shanghai, Sydney and Barcelona—of the 2015 Mustang, codenamed S550, which commemorates the model line’s 50th anniversary.
   Executive chairman Bill Ford was present at the Barcelona event, in front of an audience of 2,500 journalists, dealers and Ford employees.
   While the Mustang has officially been on sale in Europe and other markets before since the original model was released in New York on April 17, 1964, the 2015 model is the first which will be sold as a “world car”, as part of Ford’s core range.
   Ford notes that the Mustang is its most iconic range, and that it is the world’s most-liked vehicle on Facebook. Nine million have been built since the original’s launch.
   Stephen Odell, executive vice-president for Ford in Europe, Middle East and Africa, said in a release, ‘The Mustang’s formidable reputation for performance and its iconic status as a symbol of freedom and optimism precedes it even in those parts of the world where the car has never been sold. The new Mustang epitomizes Ford’s aggressive product acceleration; technologically advanced and forward-looking, but without forgetting the heritage that has inspired Ford customers for generations.’
   The new model certainly lives up to the promise. It has the classic Mustang proportions and blends them with Ford’s present design language.
   The design language has been seen on other global products such as the facelifted B299 Ford Fiesta and the CD391 Ford Fusion, which will be sold in Europe and other markets as the Ford Mondeo. It is an evolution of some of Ford’s earlier design principles.
   The grille opening apes that of the Fiesta and Fusion, but appears in a more exaggerated form, with the Mustang horse placed in the centre, as with the original, the Mustang II, and the models dating from the 1994.
   There are also shades of the ItalDesign Ford Mustang concept of 2006, which brought some Italianate touches, such as a tapering cabin.
   The rear lights also reflect the classic Mustang ideas, with the tri-bar design that also harks back to the original.
   Ford has also injected the rear-wheel-drive Mustang with the latest technologies, equipping the pony car for the 2010s and beyond.
   Technologies include Ford’s Sync with voice control and eight-inch touchscreen (in Europe), and drivers can adjust between driving modes.
   The convertible has an insulated cloth top, which has a sleek profile when folded, according to Ford.
   Moray Callum, Ford’s executive director of design for the Americas, said, ‘You only get one chance to make a first impression and when you see this car, you immediately see a Mustang strong and true.’
   Inside, the Mustang has an aviation-inspired cockpit, designed for the driver, and there is more space, thanks to a wider cabin and an all-new rear suspension. The cockpit again blends modern and classic: the two large dials hark back to the original, but the look is more geometric and structured.
   The boot can now accommodate two golf bags, thanks to the new platform.
   The suspension brings Mustang bang up to date. The front has double ball-joint Macpherson struts, while the rear gets rid of its agricultural live rear axle in front of an integral-link independent suspension. The Mustang promises to be a far better drive than the models of old, suiting worldwide markets. Ford’s stability control includes torque vectoring.
   Engines are the classic five-litre V8 (with 426 PS and 529 Nm of torque) and a new EcoBoost 2·3-litre four delivering 309 PS and 407 Nm. The automatic model has steering-wheel-mounted shift paddles.—Jack Yan, Publisher












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November 19, 2013

Mini launches with Poppy Delevingne, Henry Holland, Peaches Geldof, Ellie Goulding, Kimberley Garner

Lucire staff/14.27



Dominic O’Neill

Mini knows it’s on to a good thing, especially when it has 2½ million customers worldwide for the fashion-led 21st-century models released under BMW.
   With the launch of the fourth-generation Mini, BMW has stuck with the fashion image, with Poppy Delevingne, fashion designers Henry Holland and Amy Molyneaux, Peaches Geldof, Ellie Goulding, Pips Taylor, Zara Martin, Laura Bailey, Made in Chelsea’s Kimberley Garner and Diego Bivero-Volpe, Nik Thakkar, Kelly Eastwood and Jaime Winstone, Lianne La Havas, Ella Catliff, and Sugababe Jade Ewen at the after-party, giving it some style cred.
   The earlier unveiling had taken place in Oxford at the BMW plant, where the original 1959 Mini was built when the factory was owned by the British Motor Corporation.
   The Monday night after-party at the Sorting Office in London saw 500 guests at the event, where Goulding even worked the DJ decks before Fenech Soler performed an hour-long set. Little Dragon DJ then took over through to Tuesday midnight.
   The party continues today in Los Angeles at the Kim Sing Theater, with 175 guests invited, and Passion Pit performing live.
   The finalé will take place in Shanghai, with 200 guests on Thursday at the Waterhouse in South Bund. Gossip and Beth Ditto will perform live.
   The global launch of the new F56 Mini will take place in the first quarter of 2014.











Dominic O’Neill

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April 24, 2013

IWC Schaffhausen honours director Zhang Yimou at Beijing International Film Festival

Lucire staff/12.18


Getty Images


Lintao Zhang

More proof that the economic focus is heading east: IWC Schaffhausen has made its first appearance as a sponsor of the Beijing International Film Festival.
   The brand, which already has relationships with Kevin Spacey, Cate Blanchett, Jean Reno and Marc Forster in the occident, and Francis Ng, Julian Cheung and Anita Yuen in the orient, found it natural to extend its sponsorship to the Festival, holding a dinner, entitled ‘For the Love of Cinema’, at the Ming Dynasty city wall in Beijing.
   Ng, Cheung and Yuen attended, along with actors Yu Nan, Joseph Chang, Li Zonghan, Andrew Lien and Xiong Naijin, as well directors Zhang Yimou, Chris Wedge, Chris Brown, Li Shaohong and Xue Xiaolu. IWC CEO Georges Kern and Benoit de Clerck, its Asia–Pacific managing director, played host. The event was supported by the Motion Picture Association.
   The IWC Filmmaker Award was presented at the event to Zhang Yimou by de Clerck and IWC marketing and communications’ director Karoline Huber.
   Huber said, ‘Zhang Yimou doubtlessly belongs to the greatest film-makers of our time, and he has won numerous awards and gained recognition at many national and international film festivals. It is an enormous pleasure for us to present him with this award.’ He was also presented with IWC’s latest Portuguese Chronograph Classic in stainless steel, with a special engraving on the reverse.
   Aloe Blacc also held a private concert at the event, with DJ Miles Slater taking the party into the small hours.


Getty Images


Lintao Zhang


Etienne Oliveau


Etienne Oliveau


Lintao Zhang


Getty Images



Lintao Zhang


Getty Images




Lintao Zhang


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Etienne Oliveau

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