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February 18, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, day 5: from romantic silks to Taoray Wang’s dramatic style

Lucire staff/1.58

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Above Vivienne Tam’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection paid respect not only to Tam’s Chinese culture but the occidental interpretation of it in chinoiserie. (Courtesy Vivienne Tam; photographed by Dan Lecca.)

Day five of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was the biggest day of the week, as we showcase videos from the fall–winter 2015–16 collections below from Parkchoonmoo, Carolina Herrera, La Petite Robe, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Prabal Gurung, Vivienne Tam, Libertine, Badgley Mischka, J. Crew, Lela Rose, Naeem Khan, Michael Costello, and Skingraft. Taoray Wang, Oudifu and Georgine appear on our pages for the first time.
   Carolina Herrera showed an aquatic-themed collection with wool and organza, with blues and greys. Chiara Boni’s La Petite Robe got us into the Italian mood with classic songs played as the audience arrived, and through the show itself, with ‘VolarĂ©’ and ‘’O Sole Mio’, displaying a creative use of stretch jersey and sheer fabrics. Reem Acra went romantic with embellishments, layers and lace, with blacks, reds and golds; Vivienne Tam also used lace to good effect with her collection, along with rich, floral patterns evoking chinoiserie and Victorian costume.
   Taoray Wang, helming a label that first appeared for the spring–summer 2015 catwalks, was a pleasant surprise, with her sense of drama and volume: statement coats, big collars, turtle necks, dotted prints and angular shapes made us sit up and notice, and we believe she’s a label to watch out for. This was a classic winter collection that we believe will hit the mark well when autumn hits the US. Georgine used plenty of metallic, shimmering fabrics as it took us back to the second half of the 1970s.
   A more comprehensive report led by Paris editor Lola Cristall will appear in an upcoming issue of Lucire.

Parkchoonmoo

Carolina Herrera

La Petite Robe

Taoray Wang

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Pamella Roland

Reem Acra

Prabal Gurung

Vivienne Tam

Libertine

Oudifu

Badgley Mischka

Georgine

J. Crew

Lela Rose

Naeem Khan

Michael Costello

Skingraft

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January 27, 2015

Stoneleigh hosts pop-up bar for Volvo Ocean Race’s Auckland stopover

Lucire staff/4.16

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From top The Stoneleigh pop-up bar at the Auckland stopover of the Volvo Ocean Race. Scenes at sea over the weekend during the Volvo Ocean Race: from the all-women Team SCA, where Sam Davies and crew sail past a traditional Vietnamese fishing boat; and on board Dongfeng Race Team.

When the Volvo Ocean Race hits Auckland, Stoneleigh will host a pop-up garden bar from February 27 to March 15.
   The bar will be located at Te Wero Island on the Auckland Viaduct, and Stoneleigh will serve its Latitude wines from Marlborough’s Golden Mile, complemented by food from Masu restaurant.
   It will open from 11.30 a.m. to 10 p.m. during this period.
   â€˜We’re thrilled to be associated with such a highly anticipated event,’ said Stoneleigh winemaker, Jamie Marfell. ‘The Auckland stopover of the 2014–15 Volvo Ocean Race is being held in a superb location and we look forward to taking in all of the in-port action.’

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December 23, 2014

Auckland University Press explores New Zealand cultural identity through poetry

Eleanor Wright/13.13

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Two fantastic works exploring very different aspects of New Zealand culture and identity have come across our desks here at Lucire, from the Auckland University Press.

Puna Wai Kƍrero: an Anthology of Māori Poetry in English
Earlier this year, the first anthology of Maori poetry in English was published featuring a wide collection of prominent Maori poets. Edited by two leading Māori writers and scholars, Reina Whaitiri and Robert Sullivan, who previously edited the award-winning Whetu Moana: Contemporary Polynesian Poems in English (winner of a Montana New Zealand Book Award) and Mauri Ola: Contemporary Polynesian Poems in English II (finalist in the New Zealand Post Book Awards), Puna Wai Kƍrero offers the most diverse range of Māori voices ever published.
   The poems themselves are organized into chapters featuring short biographies about each writer, providing a richer background to the history of Māori poetry. They combine the traditional forms of oral poetry—including waiata ringaringa, waiata tangi and waiata aroha—with the influence of western poetry and the English written language to create new poetic genres, developing alongside modernist and postmodernist movements. Their assemblage of styles provides a unique perspective on numerous outlooks on life and modes of writing, laments for koro and hopes for mokopuna, celebrations of the land and anger at its abuse, retellings of myth and reclamations of history. The rich ensemble of established writers and exciting newer poets, examines political and social commentaries from early days of contact to the present, from Aotearoa and the wider world.
   This comprehensive anthology presents one hundred and twenty years of poetry written in English by Māori poets. The authentic lineage of each poet enriches the engagement with these poetic forms, Puna Wai Kƍrero traces this past whakapapa and celebrates its present–day strength. This anthology strives to bring together Māori writers and editors and through language and ideas, through stories and shared experiences, this books offers an opportunity for the readers to discover or rediscover what it is to be Māori.

How to be Dead in a Year of Snakes, by Chris Tse
A dĂ©but collection for New Zealand-born Chris Tse delivers a lyrical narrative, focused around the 1905 Wellington murder of Cantonese gold miner Joe Kum Yung by white supremacist Lionel Terry. Tse’s poetry has previously been featured in numerous journals, magazines and anthologies. This collection demonstrates his emotive power of language and creatively striking narrative coherence. This new addition to New Zealand literature offers an expansive collection from a unique cultural and historical perspective.
   Tse’s poetry serves as a vehicle to give a voice to the dead man, by paying respect to the many lives consumed by the crime. Tse uses ‘the year of the snake’—1905—as a symbol to focus the narrative through a moment of culture contact and to consider the time gap between then and now. Tse’s collection provides an emotionally driven occurrence of a cultural and historical event by summoning the ghost of Joe Kum Yung to question justice, empathy and tolerance and how they remain today. The poetic memorial effectively challenges the reader to ponder over who owns the stories, what can we learn from the past and what should we take forward to the future.
   The works are organized around the central narrative of the murder, intertwined with poems focused on contemplating and provoking ideas from the author’s perspective, the perspective of the characters, and the nation as a whole. Tse’s language invites the reader to explore and discover truth and meaning behind this episode and to bring focus to the significance of this tragic event within New Zealand history.—Eleanor Wright

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December 20, 2014

News round-up: Paolo Roversi’s Shang Xia images; Lamborghini’s Pirelli Edition; EstĂ©e Lauder buys Glamglow

Lucire staff/9.39

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Shang Xia, a Chinese lifestyle brand, has launched its new Le Chant du ThĂ© campaign images, photographed by Paolo Roversi. Jiang Qiong Er, the artistic director of Shang Xia, with the collaboration of the Fred & Farid agency in Shanghai, and Roversi himself, came up with the concept, playing on the brand’s Chinese roots. Jiang says, ‘More and more Chinese people, after spending so long dominated by western style, have a need to return to their own cultural heritage.’ By linking it to tea, at the core of Chinese civilization, the photographs feature tea leaves and even a pool of tea, alongside the Shang Xia Lan Yue leather and bamboo bag, the Sculpture overcoat in cashmere felt, and Bridge, a tea service crafted in bamboo.


   Italian supercar brand Lamborghini has announced a limited-edition Aventador LP700-4 Pirelli Edition, celebrating its collaboration with the tyre manufacturer. Pirelli has equipped Lamborghini cars since the beginning in 1963, and the Pirelli Edition, for which orders are being taken now, will be available for delivery in the northern summer. CoupĂ© and roadster models are available. The Pirelli Edition features a two-tone colour scheme (matt black detailing combined with a body in Giallo Spica, Rosso Mars, Bianco Isis, Nero Aldebaran, Grigio Liqueo or Grigio Ater, or gloss black for the upper parts of the car and the air intakes, with four matt finishes in Bianco Canopus, Nero Nemesis, Grigio Adamas or Grigio Titans for the remainder). There’s a smidge more information on the new model at Lucire Men.

   EstĂ©e Lauder will acquire Glamglow, a Hollywood skin care brand with a collection of high-end treatment masks, with the deal to close in January.
   The current line includes five mud-based facial skin mask products, each targeting a different skin care concern: Youthmud for anti-ageing, Supermud for problem skin, Thirstymud for hydration, Powermud for deep cleansing, and Brightmud for the under-eye area. A range of daily cleansers will appear in January.
   The four-year-old company, originally called Hollywood’s Boutique Secret, already retails in Sephora, Douglas, Neiman Marcus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdale’s and, from January, Nordstrom.







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December 14, 2014

Frida Giannini, Patrizio di Marco to leave Gucci; Giannini’s last collection to be autumn ’15

Lucire staff/12.11

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Gustavo Caballero/Getty Images

Above Frida Giannini photographed at The New York Times International Luxury Conference at the Mandarin Oriental Miami on December 2.

Gucci creative director Frida Giannini and CEO Patrizio di Marco will leave the label shortly, parent company Kering SA, formerly PPR, announced Friday.
   Giannini will depart after showing her autumn–winter 2015 collection at the end of February, and no successor has been named. She will have worked for over 12 years at Gucci, and has been creative director since 2006. She had succeeded Tom Ford at the label.
   Di Marco, who has been with Gucci since 2009, will leave at the end of the year, with his role taken up by Marco Bizzarri, who is presently Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods’ division. Like di Marco, Bizzarri is formerly of Bottega Veneta.
   Gucci’s revenues have been dropping, suffering from a perception that its brand is not exclusive enough. Demand in China is down this year, while third-quarter sales showed a 1·6 per cent fall. Turnover has also fallen in recent years.
   Kering had already named new CEOs in October at Bottega Veneta, Brioni and Christopher Kane as part of an internal overhaul. It also owns Stella McCartney and Puma.

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Filed under: China, fashion, Lucire, Milano, Paris, TV
December 10, 2014

News in brief: Chanel’s Paris–Salzburg collection; Lady Gaga, Eva Longoria in NYC; Anja Rubik launches perfume

Lucire staff/10.59

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Karl Lagerfeld has unveiled the 13th Chanel MĂ©tiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria, recognizing its historical connection with Gabrielle Chanel (she got the inspiration for the Chanel jacket there, at the Hotel Schloss Mittersill, then owned by Baron Hubert von Pantz, with whom she had a fling). Lagerfeld discusses his collection in the video clip below, which showcases the Paris–Salzburg collection, featuring Cara Delevingne, who not only closed the show, but is the face of the collection itself.
   The presentation, at the Leopoldskron chĂąteau, showcased the fine work of the feather-workers, milliners, tuckers and bootmakers. Lagerfeld took inspiration from traditional Austrian clothing, revisiting the dirndls and lederhosen, using loden, tweed, felt, leather and satin cashmere mix, taffeta and lace. Evening dresses featured pin-tucked fronts, frills, pleats and voluminous sleeves.
   â€˜You can take inspiration from the apron, from the sleeves, from all the little details, but you have to forget it all and we do it in a new way,’ said Lagerfeld. ‘The star of Salzburg is about the jacket, but what I like is the craftsmanship, the embroidery with all the feathers. There is an unbelievable craftsmanship in all those clothes: most of the embroidery includes stones and many feathers, it’s like fur, it’s like flying fur. If you look at them closely, it’s quite unbelievable; when you see them or you touch them. So I tried, with beautiful fake pearls, to make interesting pearl jewellery that looks like embroidery. It’s the updated version of what I think it should be, could be, and had to be today.’
   In New York celebrity sightings, Lady Gaga has been spotted wearing the Blake wide-brim hat in oyster felt with pearl trim from Eugenia Kim’s fall 2014 collection last week, while Eva Longoria wore a Ralph & Russo spring–summer 2014 white silk crĂȘpe cap sleeve embellished jacket with structured peplum, pencil skirt and black alligator belt to the ninth annual L’OrĂ©al Women of Worth event.
   L’OrĂ©al Paris notes that Longoria’s look uses True Match liquid foundation in C2 Rose Vanilla, the Volume Million Lashes Excess in Extra Black, Color Riche Le Kajal in 501 Oriental Black, the Super Liner Brow Artist Plumper in medium to dark, and the Elnett Volume Excess hairspray. Blake Lively, very much this year’s L’OrĂ©al Paris celebrity with all the attention she garnered at Cannes, was also at Women of Worth, her look accomplished with True Match in N3 Creamy Beige, the Glam Bronze Powder Duo in 101 Blonde, the Flash Lash Butterfly in Intenza, Txt Wave Creating Spray, and the Nude Rose Color Riche La Palette.

   Polish model Anja Rubik, 31, meanwhile, has released her new perfume, Original. At Colette in Paris, she discusses some of her beauty tips from her career, including using eyelash curlers and moisturizing your skin. Rubik also reveals that Brigitte Bardot is her ‘ultimate beauty’, and rates Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patty Smyth highly.
   The perfume scents are those that have followed her over the years, namely white lilies and green tea, while the black-and-white imagery was inspired by her love of black-and-white photography and the work of Robert Mapplethorpe.
   Carrera y Carrera is going from strength to strength: the Madrid-based luxury jewellery brand has opened a boutique in Macau, as a first beach-head into China. Manuel Carrera, a fourth-generation descendant of the Carrera family who founded the brand, was on hand with CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
   Finally, in the main part of our site, travel editor Stanley Moss fits museums and great food into 48 hours in Torino, while publisher Jack Yan tests the BMW X1 Sdrive18d—readers might like the title.


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December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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October 1, 2014

IWC Schaffhausen launches Timeless Portofino exhibition in Hong Kong

Lucire staff/23.34

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JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

IWC Schaffhausen hosted a gala dinner on Monday at the Grand Hyatt in Hong Kong with its brand ambassadors Cate Blanchett, Zhou Xun and Karolína Kurková, and photographer Peter Lindbergh present. IWC CEO Georges Kern played host, with Goris Verburg, IWC marketing and communication director, and Benoüt de Clerck, IWC managing director, Asia–Pacific.
   Earlier they had opened the Timeless Portofino exhibition, which marked the launch of IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino mid-size watch range. The three ambassadors played a role in the exhibition, shot by Lindbergh, as did Emily Blunt, Christoph Waltz, Ewan McGregor, and Adriana Lima.
   The event coincided with the first day of the Watches and Wonders exhibition in the Chinese city, which is currently beset by pro-democracy protests demanding that Beijing fulfil its promise of granting universal suffrage for the 2017 election of the chief executive.
   Beijing, for its part, suggests that the US State Department is interfering in the city’s affairs.
   There was little sign of the concerns at the event as the 250 celebrity and VIP guests were entertained at the dinner, including Francis Ng, Anita Yuen, Audrey Ai, Jamie Campbell, Alfred Cheung, Brandon Chau, Leigh Tung, Julien Lepeu, Jeffrey Yau, Cissy Wang, Deborah Hung, and Amanda S. The renowned Shandong-born violinist LĂŒ Siqing performed at the gala dinner.
   The Timeless Portofino exhibition has already appeared in ZĂŒrich and will go on to London, Miami and Dubai.

Opening







JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

Arrivals









JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

Gala dinner

Moses Ng


Aitor Alcalde



Moses Ng


Aitor Alcalde


StudioEast

The shoots, by Peter Lindbergh












Peter Lindbergh



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