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December 23, 2014

Auckland University Press explores New Zealand cultural identity through poetry

Eleanor Wright/13.13

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Two fantastic works exploring very different aspects of New Zealand culture and identity have come across our desks here at Lucire, from the Auckland University Press.

Puna Wai Kƍrero: an Anthology of Māori Poetry in English
Earlier this year, the first anthology of Maori poetry in English was published featuring a wide collection of prominent Maori poets. Edited by two leading Māori writers and scholars, Reina Whaitiri and Robert Sullivan, who previously edited the award-winning Whetu Moana: Contemporary Polynesian Poems in English (winner of a Montana New Zealand Book Award) and Mauri Ola: Contemporary Polynesian Poems in English II (finalist in the New Zealand Post Book Awards), Puna Wai Kƍrero offers the most diverse range of Māori voices ever published.
   The poems themselves are organized into chapters featuring short biographies about each writer, providing a richer background to the history of Māori poetry. They combine the traditional forms of oral poetry—including waiata ringaringa, waiata tangi and waiata aroha—with the influence of western poetry and the English written language to create new poetic genres, developing alongside modernist and postmodernist movements. Their assemblage of styles provides a unique perspective on numerous outlooks on life and modes of writing, laments for koro and hopes for mokopuna, celebrations of the land and anger at its abuse, retellings of myth and reclamations of history. The rich ensemble of established writers and exciting newer poets, examines political and social commentaries from early days of contact to the present, from Aotearoa and the wider world.
   This comprehensive anthology presents one hundred and twenty years of poetry written in English by Māori poets. The authentic lineage of each poet enriches the engagement with these poetic forms, Puna Wai Kƍrero traces this past whakapapa and celebrates its present–day strength. This anthology strives to bring together Māori writers and editors and through language and ideas, through stories and shared experiences, this books offers an opportunity for the readers to discover or rediscover what it is to be Māori.

How to be Dead in a Year of Snakes, by Chris Tse
A dĂ©but collection for New Zealand-born Chris Tse delivers a lyrical narrative, focused around the 1905 Wellington murder of Cantonese gold miner Joe Kum Yung by white supremacist Lionel Terry. Tse’s poetry has previously been featured in numerous journals, magazines and anthologies. This collection demonstrates his emotive power of language and creatively striking narrative coherence. This new addition to New Zealand literature offers an expansive collection from a unique cultural and historical perspective.
   Tse’s poetry serves as a vehicle to give a voice to the dead man, by paying respect to the many lives consumed by the crime. Tse uses ‘the year of the snake’—1905—as a symbol to focus the narrative through a moment of culture contact and to consider the time gap between then and now. Tse’s collection provides an emotionally driven occurrence of a cultural and historical event by summoning the ghost of Joe Kum Yung to question justice, empathy and tolerance and how they remain today. The poetic memorial effectively challenges the reader to ponder over who owns the stories, what can we learn from the past and what should we take forward to the future.
   The works are organized around the central narrative of the murder, intertwined with poems focused on contemplating and provoking ideas from the author’s perspective, the perspective of the characters, and the nation as a whole. Tse’s language invites the reader to explore and discover truth and meaning behind this episode and to bring focus to the significance of this tragic event within New Zealand history.—Eleanor Wright

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December 20, 2014

News round-up: Paolo Roversi’s Shang Xia images; Lamborghini’s Pirelli Edition; EstĂ©e Lauder buys Glamglow

Lucire staff/9.39

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Shang Xia, a Chinese lifestyle brand, has launched its new Le Chant du ThĂ© campaign images, photographed by Paolo Roversi. Jiang Qiong Er, the artistic director of Shang Xia, with the collaboration of the Fred & Farid agency in Shanghai, and Roversi himself, came up with the concept, playing on the brand’s Chinese roots. Jiang says, ‘More and more Chinese people, after spending so long dominated by western style, have a need to return to their own cultural heritage.’ By linking it to tea, at the core of Chinese civilization, the photographs feature tea leaves and even a pool of tea, alongside the Shang Xia Lan Yue leather and bamboo bag, the Sculpture overcoat in cashmere felt, and Bridge, a tea service crafted in bamboo.


   Italian supercar brand Lamborghini has announced a limited-edition Aventador LP700-4 Pirelli Edition, celebrating its collaboration with the tyre manufacturer. Pirelli has equipped Lamborghini cars since the beginning in 1963, and the Pirelli Edition, for which orders are being taken now, will be available for delivery in the northern summer. CoupĂ© and roadster models are available. The Pirelli Edition features a two-tone colour scheme (matt black detailing combined with a body in Giallo Spica, Rosso Mars, Bianco Isis, Nero Aldebaran, Grigio Liqueo or Grigio Ater, or gloss black for the upper parts of the car and the air intakes, with four matt finishes in Bianco Canopus, Nero Nemesis, Grigio Adamas or Grigio Titans for the remainder). There’s a smidge more information on the new model at Lucire Men.

   EstĂ©e Lauder will acquire Glamglow, a Hollywood skin care brand with a collection of high-end treatment masks, with the deal to close in January.
   The current line includes five mud-based facial skin mask products, each targeting a different skin care concern: Youthmud for anti-ageing, Supermud for problem skin, Thirstymud for hydration, Powermud for deep cleansing, and Brightmud for the under-eye area. A range of daily cleansers will appear in January.
   The four-year-old company, originally called Hollywood’s Boutique Secret, already retails in Sephora, Douglas, Neiman Marcus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdale’s and, from January, Nordstrom.







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December 14, 2014

Frida Giannini, Patrizio di Marco to leave Gucci; Giannini’s last collection to be autumn ’15

Lucire staff/12.11

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Gustavo Caballero/Getty Images

Above Frida Giannini photographed at The New York Times International Luxury Conference at the Mandarin Oriental Miami on December 2.

Gucci creative director Frida Giannini and CEO Patrizio di Marco will leave the label shortly, parent company Kering SA, formerly PPR, announced Friday.
   Giannini will depart after showing her autumn–winter 2015 collection at the end of February, and no successor has been named. She will have worked for over 12 years at Gucci, and has been creative director since 2006. She had succeeded Tom Ford at the label.
   Di Marco, who has been with Gucci since 2009, will leave at the end of the year, with his role taken up by Marco Bizzarri, who is presently Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods’ division. Like di Marco, Bizzarri is formerly of Bottega Veneta.
   Gucci’s revenues have been dropping, suffering from a perception that its brand is not exclusive enough. Demand in China is down this year, while third-quarter sales showed a 1·6 per cent fall. Turnover has also fallen in recent years.
   Kering had already named new CEOs in October at Bottega Veneta, Brioni and Christopher Kane as part of an internal overhaul. It also owns Stella McCartney and Puma.

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Filed under: China, fashion, Lucire, Milano, Paris, TV
December 10, 2014

News in brief: Chanel’s Paris–Salzburg collection; Lady Gaga, Eva Longoria in NYC; Anja Rubik launches perfume

Lucire staff/10.59

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Karl Lagerfeld has unveiled the 13th Chanel MĂ©tiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria, recognizing its historical connection with Gabrielle Chanel (she got the inspiration for the Chanel jacket there, at the Hotel Schloss Mittersill, then owned by Baron Hubert von Pantz, with whom she had a fling). Lagerfeld discusses his collection in the video clip below, which showcases the Paris–Salzburg collection, featuring Cara Delevingne, who not only closed the show, but is the face of the collection itself.
   The presentation, at the Leopoldskron chĂąteau, showcased the fine work of the feather-workers, milliners, tuckers and bootmakers. Lagerfeld took inspiration from traditional Austrian clothing, revisiting the dirndls and lederhosen, using loden, tweed, felt, leather and satin cashmere mix, taffeta and lace. Evening dresses featured pin-tucked fronts, frills, pleats and voluminous sleeves.
   â€˜You can take inspiration from the apron, from the sleeves, from all the little details, but you have to forget it all and we do it in a new way,’ said Lagerfeld. ‘The star of Salzburg is about the jacket, but what I like is the craftsmanship, the embroidery with all the feathers. There is an unbelievable craftsmanship in all those clothes: most of the embroidery includes stones and many feathers, it’s like fur, it’s like flying fur. If you look at them closely, it’s quite unbelievable; when you see them or you touch them. So I tried, with beautiful fake pearls, to make interesting pearl jewellery that looks like embroidery. It’s the updated version of what I think it should be, could be, and had to be today.’
   In New York celebrity sightings, Lady Gaga has been spotted wearing the Blake wide-brim hat in oyster felt with pearl trim from Eugenia Kim’s fall 2014 collection last week, while Eva Longoria wore a Ralph & Russo spring–summer 2014 white silk crĂȘpe cap sleeve embellished jacket with structured peplum, pencil skirt and black alligator belt to the ninth annual L’OrĂ©al Women of Worth event.
   L’OrĂ©al Paris notes that Longoria’s look uses True Match liquid foundation in C2 Rose Vanilla, the Volume Million Lashes Excess in Extra Black, Color Riche Le Kajal in 501 Oriental Black, the Super Liner Brow Artist Plumper in medium to dark, and the Elnett Volume Excess hairspray. Blake Lively, very much this year’s L’OrĂ©al Paris celebrity with all the attention she garnered at Cannes, was also at Women of Worth, her look accomplished with True Match in N3 Creamy Beige, the Glam Bronze Powder Duo in 101 Blonde, the Flash Lash Butterfly in Intenza, Txt Wave Creating Spray, and the Nude Rose Color Riche La Palette.

   Polish model Anja Rubik, 31, meanwhile, has released her new perfume, Original. At Colette in Paris, she discusses some of her beauty tips from her career, including using eyelash curlers and moisturizing your skin. Rubik also reveals that Brigitte Bardot is her ‘ultimate beauty’, and rates Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patty Smyth highly.
   The perfume scents are those that have followed her over the years, namely white lilies and green tea, while the black-and-white imagery was inspired by her love of black-and-white photography and the work of Robert Mapplethorpe.
   Carrera y Carrera is going from strength to strength: the Madrid-based luxury jewellery brand has opened a boutique in Macau, as a first beach-head into China. Manuel Carrera, a fourth-generation descendant of the Carrera family who founded the brand, was on hand with CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
   Finally, in the main part of our site, travel editor Stanley Moss fits museums and great food into 48 hours in Torino, while publisher Jack Yan tests the BMW X1 Sdrive18d—readers might like the title.


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December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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October 1, 2014

IWC Schaffhausen launches Timeless Portofino exhibition in Hong Kong

Lucire staff/23.34

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JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

IWC Schaffhausen hosted a gala dinner on Monday at the Grand Hyatt in Hong Kong with its brand ambassadors Cate Blanchett, Zhou Xun and Karolína Kurková, and photographer Peter Lindbergh present. IWC CEO Georges Kern played host, with Goris Verburg, IWC marketing and communication director, and Benoüt de Clerck, IWC managing director, Asia–Pacific.
   Earlier they had opened the Timeless Portofino exhibition, which marked the launch of IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino mid-size watch range. The three ambassadors played a role in the exhibition, shot by Lindbergh, as did Emily Blunt, Christoph Waltz, Ewan McGregor, and Adriana Lima.
   The event coincided with the first day of the Watches and Wonders exhibition in the Chinese city, which is currently beset by pro-democracy protests demanding that Beijing fulfil its promise of granting universal suffrage for the 2017 election of the chief executive.
   Beijing, for its part, suggests that the US State Department is interfering in the city’s affairs.
   There was little sign of the concerns at the event as the 250 celebrity and VIP guests were entertained at the dinner, including Francis Ng, Anita Yuen, Audrey Ai, Jamie Campbell, Alfred Cheung, Brandon Chau, Leigh Tung, Julien Lepeu, Jeffrey Yau, Cissy Wang, Deborah Hung, and Amanda S. The renowned Shandong-born violinist LĂŒ Siqing performed at the gala dinner.
   The Timeless Portofino exhibition has already appeared in ZĂŒrich and will go on to London, Miami and Dubai.

Opening







JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

Arrivals









JĂ©rĂŽme Favre

Gala dinner

Moses Ng


Aitor Alcalde



Moses Ng


Aitor Alcalde


StudioEast

The shoots, by Peter Lindbergh












Peter Lindbergh



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August 26, 2014

Volvo releases details of second-generation XC90

Jack Yan/15.03

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Volvo has released official information on the second-generation XC90, replacing the original SUV that first caught the public’s attention in 2002.
   The new XC90 is aimed at a more affluent audience while preserving traditional Volvo values, as the Swedish brand aims to increase its international sales as a prestige marque, especially in China.
   The XC90 is the first car from the Swedish brand, now a subsidiary of China’s Geely, developed after its sale by the Ford Motor Company.
   The engine line-up features D4 and D5 diesels, producing 190 and 225 PS respectively, and T5 and T6 petrol units, developing 225 and 320 PS. A Twin Engine T8 is the flagship of the range, with 400 PS and a hybrid driveline (petrol engine driving the front wheels, an electric motor driving the rear), in line with Volvo’s loftier ambitions for its big SUV, while showing its social commitment. Volvo says a three-cylinder unit is in the XC90’s future.
   Size has increased, too: length is up to 4,950 mm (compared with 4,807 mm), with a wheelbase up from 2,857 mm to 2,984 mm, ensuring the new car is more commodious. Width is 2,008 mm, an increase from the current model’s 1,936 mm, helping distance it from the mid-sized XC60. Height is now 1,775 mm, the only measure which has decreased from its predecessor, by a mere 9 mm. The tracks are also wider, front and rear, by 3–4 inches.
   Volvo’s new design language, already previewed on the Concept CoupĂ©, Concept XC CoupĂ© and Concept Estate, is a sportier, simpler expression of many of its traditional cues, but shakes off Swedish restraint for a more expressive, aspirational feel. The iron logo has been reinterpreted to appear more solid, with the ribbon at a lower angle. The sides are straighter, with the waistline more parallel with the ground.
   The SUV is on Volvo’s new SPA scalable architecture, which will form the basis of future Volvo models.
   The interior has also been rethought with a new design language, with a large Sensus screen in the middle of the dashboard, divided into GPS at the top, media and phone in the middle, and climate control settings at the bottom. Cloud-based services can also be accessed through the Sensus system, with compatibility with Android and Apple, including Google Maps and Spotify through those OSs. A head-up display is also available. The interior is also more luxurious, with more sumptuous, redesigned seats. Volvo claims the third row of seats provides class-leading room. The Bowers & Wilkins sound system is unique to the XC90, and features an air-vented subwoofer.
   In safety terms, Volvo dĂ©buts two features. The first is automatic braking when turning left (turning right for RHD models) into oncoming vehicles. Secondly, Volvo launches an active safety feature in cases where, should the car begin to depart from the road, it will tighten the front seat belts to hold the passengers in place. Meanwhile, its engineers have developed an energy-absorbing function between the chair and chair frame to dampen the vertical forces, helping to prevent back injuries.
   Volvo Car Group CEO Hakan Samuelsson says, ‘This is one of the most important days in our history. We are launching not only a car, but we are also relaunching our brand. Today begins a new era in our company.’
   The first-generation model continues in China as the XC90 Classic.—Jack Yan, Publisher

















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July 2, 2014

Sarah Jessica Parker and Cindy Chao collaborate on brooch to beneïŹt New York City Ballet

Lucire staff/12.33

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We’ve had Tamsin Cooper create a line for the Royal New Zealand Ballet, Backes & Strauss partner with the English National Ballet, and now, Sarah Jessica Parker and contemporary fine jeweller Cindy Chao have teamed up to create the 2014 Black Label Masterpiece Ballerina Butterfly brooch to benefit the New York City Ballet.
   It’s not quite a full line: this is a one-off to be auctioned by Sotheby’s Hong Kong this October, at the Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Sale. However, it was created with the New York City Ballet, on which Parker serves as a director, in mind.
   Parker and Chao connected during Chao’s 2011 Masterpiece Exhibition in Beijing. In 2012, when Chao opened her Beijing boutique, at which Parker was guest of honour, that the pair would collaborate on a piece for charity.
   The collaboration, which took place over the last two years, saw them review sketches, wax models and gemstones together.
   The brooch has a titanium and 18 ct gold body. It features a cushion-cut fancy brown diamond weighing 26­·27 ct, three rough brown diamond slices weighing a total of 47·71 ct, three pieces of conch pearls weighing a total of 7·25 ct, surrounded by 4,698 diamonds and fancy-coloured diamonds weighing a total of 98·09 ct.
   It is meant to be signify the beauty, structure, strength and movement of a ballerina, and can be worn either right-side-up or upside-down.
   It will be first shown in Paris during haute couture fashion week, from which Lucire will report next week. It will then travel throughout Asia, before heading to New York and Hong Kong.
   â€˜I have had the great pleasure of knowing Cindy and her work for several years, and it has been an incredibly special experience to collaborate with her,’ said Parker. ‘Cindy’s jewellery designs are true works of art; they capture the eye and imagination in a memorable way. I am so pleased to partner with her on this project, which benefits the wonderful work of the New York City Ballet, an organization that is close to my heart.’
   Chao has created a Black Label Masterpiece Butterfly each year since 2008, to symbolize her own metamorphosis, says her company, Cindy Chao—The Art Jewel, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.
   â€˜Sarah Jessica and I are two very different creative minds sharing the same artistic vision and passion,’ said Chao in a release. ‘She truly appreciates the essence and soul of my creations, and I admire her innovative yet classic view on fashion and style. My annual butterflies carry special meaning for me. Collaborating with Sarah Jessica for a cause we both deeply care for and believe in makes this Ballerina Butterfly all the more special.’
   The net proceeds from the auction will go to the ballet company.

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