Lucire: News


October 1, 2015

Ikea extends itself into fashion: you read it here first last year

Lucire staff/23.16


September 29’s Ikea Fashion Show at Moda di Milano (hashtagged both #IKEAfashion and #IKEAtemporary) showcased work from two designers who collaborated with the Swedish-founded furniture conglomerate.
   ‘With a number of new collections that have been developed in collaboration with fashion designers, Ikea is stepping into new territory—one from which we can learn a lot,’ according to the company.
   Giltig by Katie Eary and Svärtan by Martin Bergström will see their collections retailed in 2016, but they received a boost in profile thanks to their appearance at one of the top fashion weeks in the world.
   For us, the first thing that came to mind when seeing Ikea fashion was Stefan Engeseth’s (below right) prediction, published in Lucire first last year, and later in, the Daily Mail, The Guardian and Flare, plus a number of newspapers and news websites: that fashion should be Ikea’s next industry.
   At the time, Ikea had no such plans officially, but it isn’t surprising to see another one of Engeseth’s predictions come true. He came up with the idea of Coca-Cola being served through taps at home before Coke itself actually trialled that idea, plus another, over 15 years ago, on how cellphones could connect two strangers, albeit not through an app.
   We wrote: ‘Engeseth says that Ikea’s expertise lends itself easily to the world of apparel …
   ‘He believes that fashion is in a repetitive cycle, stuck in history and needing renewal.
   ‘Ikea could offer both complete apparel items and composite parts that customers could assemble themselves, says Mr Engeseth. The parts could be “tailored” at home in inventive ways without the need for complex sewing.’
   Last year, Lucire publisher Jack Yan added, ‘This taps in to its existing fan base, and just as importantly, Ikea can make full use of its channels, outmanœuvring many existing fashion labels. Ikea has an international retail base and it has distribution down to a fine art.’
   When we asked him about the Ikea show in Milano yesterday, he had his reservations about some of the designs, but stated, ‘It’s good that Ikea takes its first step into fashion, and rewarding to see them developing the concept more now.’
   He was also buoyed by seeing that, after the show, Ikea’s official Twitter account went back to his blog post late last year about Ikea fashion, and “favourited” a Tweet about it. Engeseth even preempted the hashtag used back in 2014.
   There’s no sign that Ikea fashion will be in a composite format, ready for its customers to assemble, but Engeseth appears to have been right that the brand would extend itself into the new segment.

September 30, 2015

Kate Hudson is the Campari calendar model for 2016, photographed by Michelangelo di Battista

Alex Barrow/11.11

Francesco Pizzo

Kate Hudson has been announced as the 2016 model for the iconic Campari calendar. The brand belongs to the namesake Italian wine company which produces the well-known apéritif. The drink itself is a palatable combination of bitter and sweet which is drawn on in the 2016 calendar theme.
   With a relevant setting of an upcoming presidential election, Hudson embodies separate roles of bitterness and seduction versus sweetness and subtlety, a play on the taste of the Campari red wine. ‘Each month embodies the different profiles Campari embodies, alongside Kate Hudson’s incredible talent and ability to switch from approachable, welcoming and sensual to audacious and seductive,’ said Bob Kunze-Concewitz, CEO of Gruppo Campari.
   Hudson, as a Hollywood actress and entrepreneur, said that she was honoured to work with the company in creating ‘two distinctive characters embodying bitter and sweet.’
   Fashion photographer Michelangelo Di Battista, who shot Hudson for the calendar, applauded both her and the company for their artistic direction in the project: ‘Campari is a brand that has always had a clear sense of æsthetic and well defined style … Kate’s enthusiasm and ability to switch between the two personalities allowed me to create images I hope are fresh, inspiring and imaginative.’
   With the images being officially unveiled on November 18, the Italian label is maintaining its reputation for their much anticipated calendar with the prominent presence of Kate Hudson. Past stars have included Eva Green, Uma Thurman, Penélope Cruz, Salma Hayek, Milla Jovovich, Olga Kurylenko and Jessica Alba.—Alex Barrow

Michelangelo Di Battista

Francesco Pizzo

June 28, 2015

Lucire’s Instagram round-up, June 28

Fenella Clarke/15.00

With so much going on in the fashion world 24–7 we at Lucire thought you might need a quick Instagram update on what’s been happening in the lives of models and designers in the last week as we chronicle this world.
   With the spring–summer men’s runway shows in the last couple of weeks, most of the designers have runway shots or close-ups of details: we see that in Vivienne Westwood, Gucci and Valentino’s photos. Moschino released this beautiful illustration by Natalia Sanabria of Daphne Groeneveld in a look from their men’s show.
   The models’ Instagrams are a bit more interesting: Gigi Hadid and Liu Wen are giving us a sneak peak into their different photo shoots, the former with her sister and latter a shot of herself from Vogue. Cara Delevingne’s latest doesn’t have much to do with fashion at all: she is traveling around the world at the moment, promoting her new movie, Paper Towns. Kendall Jenner was also promoting something a little unexpected: a signature lipstick collaboration with none other than Estée Lauder, whom Jenner now represents.—Fenella Clarke

June 14, 2015

The Instagrams of the top fashion labels: showing seven ways they reach us

Fenella Clarke/13.18

With social media being such a big part of the world we now live in, fashion houses no longer have just magazines to sell their products. These Instagram accounts give fans an insiders’ look to the brand and what’s going on. We have chosen seven of the top fashion labels to give the different ways these labels use Instagram.
   Making us green with envy, Fendi is giving us a snapshot into the book launch party for Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, which was at this year’s Cannes Film Festival. Yellow sand, blue sky, models (Lily Donaldson, Lindsey Wixson and, of course, Kendall Jenner) in beautiful clothes and the influential designer himself, make this a photo I want to jump into.
   Marc Jacobs is showing us the classic throwback Thursday and giving us a nice close-up from his 2010 collection, making us wish even more for a time-travelling device. Having the photo up so close shows us a new side to a dress we may have seen before, giving us a new appreciation of the greatness that is in front of us.
   Jimmy Choo is giving us a behind-the-scenes look that we would never see on the runway: a sketch design of one of their shoes. From this, we can compare the real-life shoe and make us sigh with relief that the heel is not quite so high. Having behind-the-scenes images makes the fans and customers feel more a part of the process, not to mention more appreciative of the shoe itself.
   Roberto Cavalli is both showing off its new campaign and some sweet-as art. This beautiful illustration by Hodaya Louis is of its new autumn–winter range, featuring singer Ciara. While they also showed the real photographs when the campaign was first released, this continues the interest while also shining light on the artist who did the illustration in the first place.
   Often when you see pictures from the runway, you are too busy taking in the whole outfit that you don’t get to all the little details that make it as glorious as it is. Thanks to Burberry’s Instagram, however, we are getting not only a close-up look at the green suede bag, but also the patterns and details of the boots and coats. From the looks of things, this image was taken while the models were waiting to walk out on the runway, making this the perfect quick snapshot to make us want the bag and see more of that outfit.
   The Met Gala is a huge night for fashion, showing us mere mere mortals the best and most extravagant dresses you can get. It also leaves us wanting what your favourite celebrity is wearing. Givenchy, in this post and many others, tells us who was wearing its beautiful dresses. In this photo, actress Jessica Chastain is wearing a custom haute couture dress. This dress looks like dripping gold and perfectly shows the extravagance that is Givenchy.
   Last, but not least, we have Valentino showing us some street style from one of the many famous fashion bloggers. A shot from the fashion website Man Repeller, this features a pair of Valentino shoes. With the rise of social media, bloggers now have a big impact of what people buy and even how people wear things. Customers will find a blogger with a similar style to them and see how they wear certain things. If a label affiliates themselves with and shows a famous blogger wearing its clothes, then they can reach potential customers.—Fenella Clarke

February 24, 2015

The wonderment of Flow

Tamara Madison/12.46

There’s nothing like a carefully plated delicious meal that will get conversation started at the dinner table. Food generally brings families and friends together, and like food, fashion tends to gather hungry crowds just the same. A room full of thirsty appetites, whether desiring a glass of shiraz or craving a fresh take on classic silhouettes is all digested best with a dose of sustenance.
   Flow, a burgeoning fashion label founded by two sisters, Victoria and Veronika, understands how to design in harmony. Their Belgian–Ukrainian label, not to be confused with the Malaysia-based clothing retailer of the same name, embodies the art of creating just the right amount of what the Swedes call lagom, and it shows throughout their collections.
   Pieces are not overly designed. Instead, garments are braised predominantly in pure silk and cotton, then enriched by colour or finishing shape. The sisters experiment with volume, whilst using the unconventional as an undercurrent in designing. The result is a pensive (spring–summer 2015) collection full of playful prints with child-like embraces, Japanese-inspired shapes, and a modern perspective on sportswear.
   The designing pair has managed to produce a smörgåsbord of distinct and charming garments to satiate fashion palates, especially if it favours edgy, artful, and quirky styles. Nonetheless, the pleasant appeal of a Flow garment might also be the fact that it can be worn by diverse women. ‘The most essential is to have that “special something” inside of you. That feminine, sensitive and elegant, yet kindly ironic thing that is very Flow. It is more about chemistry and common wit,’ the designers said, regarding the Flow woman.
   So, what’s the secret to the flourishing brand? Well, their approach to design is much like a gourmet recipe, using key ingredients to craft a tasty and well balanced dish to savour. Their main course is just also served with a side of passion, meticulousness, and confidence. And, like your grandmother’s recipe secrets, when it comes to the artful process, they prefer to keep it close to home.
   In fact, the sisters are involved in all aspects of the design process. However, having just under a dozen people in their design team certainly helps. ‘When we seek new co-workers, we primarily seek professionals who can become new members of the family. Creation of a collection is a group process and mutual understanding has great influence on the result,’ the designers confessed.
   In their spring–summer 2015 collection, you will see a palette of red, white, and blue with accented colours that look as vivid as a fresh floral bouquet. Pieces like the pyjama-esque silk garment with kookaburra bird drawings are eye-catching. The line is full of sprightly, sophisticated sportswear with a contemporary gracefulness that’s hard to ignore. But, that’s mostly because of the designer’s underlining influence, including the œuvres of Niko Pirosmani and Ivan Semesyuk. ‘The spirit [of the line] is childish and patrician at the same time,’ the designers said.
   Flow’s offerings come in a range of styles, with pieces that can easily be translated into workwear, or casual elegance for the avant-garde art enthusiast. There are silhouettes for the classic fashion darling, as well as separates that exemplify opulence at its very core. The designers have fused a nourishing concoction of culture and art, creating a smart fashion paella, all which seems to give them a discerning compound of depth and simplicity.
   The young brand’s maturity in execution and outlook is well seasoned. And, with only a handful of collections under their belt, there’s much that they have already learned from having a fashion business. ‘It requires lots of time and enormous sources of energy … true fashion is always about the dream, the feeling, and the humanly approach,’ Flow said.
   You may view Flow’s upcoming autumn-winter collection at the BeNext showroom during this Paris fashion week, and at the Tranoï exhibition shown in Milano.
   For more information, visit—Tamara Madison

December 14, 2014

Frida Giannini, Patrizio di Marco to leave Gucci; Giannini’s last collection to be autumn ’15

Lucire staff/12.11

Gustavo Caballero/Getty Images

Above Frida Giannini photographed at The New York Times International Luxury Conference at the Mandarin Oriental Miami on December 2.

Gucci creative director Frida Giannini and CEO Patrizio di Marco will leave the label shortly, parent company Kering SA, formerly PPR, announced Friday.
   Giannini will depart after showing her autumn–winter 2015 collection at the end of February, and no successor has been named. She will have worked for over 12 years at Gucci, and has been creative director since 2006. She had succeeded Tom Ford at the label.
   Di Marco, who has been with Gucci since 2009, will leave at the end of the year, with his role taken up by Marco Bizzarri, who is presently Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods’ division. Like di Marco, Bizzarri is formerly of Bottega Veneta.
   Gucci’s revenues have been dropping, suffering from a perception that its brand is not exclusive enough. Demand in China is down this year, while third-quarter sales showed a 1·6 per cent fall. Turnover has also fallen in recent years.
   Kering had already named new CEOs in October at Bottega Veneta, Brioni and Christopher Kane as part of an internal overhaul. It also owns Stella McCartney and Puma.

Filed under: China, fashion, Lucire, Milano, Paris, TV
December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the pièce de résistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.

November 26, 2014

Edward Enninful to be honoured at 2014 British Fashion Awards

Lucire staff/11.35

Edward Enninful will receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at this year’s British Fashion Awards, the British Fashion Council announced today.
   Ghanese-born Enninful is a stylist and the current fashion and style director of W.
   In 1991, he became fashion director of I-D, at the age of 18, making him the youngest editor at a major international title. Seven years later, he became contributing fashion editor of Vogue Italia, and he held the same post at Vogue in 2006. In 2011, he took on his role at W.
   Enninful has also worked on campaigns for Gucci, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Celine, Lanvin, Mulberry, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Fendi, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Hugo Boss, and Missoni.
   I-D founders, Terry and Tricia Jones, said, ‘When the wonderful Simon Foxton first introduced Edward into the I-D family, we had no idea that he would become one of the most outstanding stylists of his generation. He not only brought his own talent to the magazine, but started working with hundreds of other individual youngsters at the beginning of their careers. His fashion corner in the I-D office was always a mecca for ideas and supermodel diversity became one of his many contributions to the international fashion industry.
   ‘We are thrilled and super proud that I-D’s youngest-ever son has travelled so far in his career and feel very privileged to have known him as a teenager. Edward’s own individual talent, his absolute loyalty, his encouragement and promotion of other peoples’ careers, as well as his love and belief in diversity within the industry, is rare and quite unprecedented. We truly believe that Edward’s creative voice, experience and original inspiration fully justify this very prestigious award!’
   Supermodel Naomi Campbell said, ‘Edward is not only one of my dearest friends and brother, but he is also one of the most outstanding people I have ever had the pleasure of working with. His unique talent, drive and imagination are poured into his work, making him responsible for some of the most heart quickening imagery in the history of fashion.’
   Fashion photographer Stephen Klein added, ‘Edward has exquisite taste and precision and is both sensitive to the aim of the photographer and venue without compromising either.’
   Speaking for the British Fashion Council, Natalie Massenet, its chairman, said, ‘Edward’s creative energy and level of vision captures the mood of our times: his work is original, energetic, sincere and unforgettable. His creative journey may have started in London, but today his influence spans the entire globe intersecting the worlds of fashion, art and business.’
   The British Fashion Awards 2014 is sponsored by Swarovski, Canon, MAC, Toni & Guy, Vodafone, American Express, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes Benz, Penhaligon’s, and Rightster.

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