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December 14, 2014

Frida Giannini, Patrizio di Marco to leave Gucci; Giannini’s last collection to be autumn ’15

Lucire staff/12.11

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Gustavo Caballero/Getty Images

Above Frida Giannini photographed at The New York Times International Luxury Conference at the Mandarin Oriental Miami on December 2.

Gucci creative director Frida Giannini and CEO Patrizio di Marco will leave the label shortly, parent company Kering SA, formerly PPR, announced Friday.
   Giannini will depart after showing her autumn–winter 2015 collection at the end of February, and no successor has been named. She will have worked for over 12 years at Gucci, and has been creative director since 2006. She had succeeded Tom Ford at the label.
   Di Marco, who has been with Gucci since 2009, will leave at the end of the year, with his role taken up by Marco Bizzarri, who is presently Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods’ division. Like di Marco, Bizzarri is formerly of Bottega Veneta.
   Gucci’s revenues have been dropping, suffering from a perception that its brand is not exclusive enough. Demand in China is down this year, while third-quarter sales showed a 1·6 per cent fall. Turnover has also fallen in recent years.
   Kering had already named new CEOs in October at Bottega Veneta, Brioni and Christopher Kane as part of an internal overhaul. It also owns Stella McCartney and Puma.

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Filed under: China, fashion, Lucire, Milano, Paris, TV
December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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November 26, 2014

Edward Enninful to be honoured at 2014 British Fashion Awards

Lucire staff/11.35

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Edward Enninful will receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at this year’s British Fashion Awards, the British Fashion Council announced today.
   Ghanese-born Enninful is a stylist and the current fashion and style director of W.
   In 1991, he became fashion director of I-D, at the age of 18, making him the youngest editor at a major international title. Seven years later, he became contributing fashion editor of Vogue Italia, and he held the same post at Vogue in 2006. In 2011, he took on his role at W.
   Enninful has also worked on campaigns for Gucci, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Celine, Lanvin, Mulberry, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Fendi, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Hugo Boss, and Missoni.
   I-D founders, Terry and Tricia Jones, said, ‘When the wonderful Simon Foxton first introduced Edward into the I-D family, we had no idea that he would become one of the most outstanding stylists of his generation. He not only brought his own talent to the magazine, but started working with hundreds of other individual youngsters at the beginning of their careers. His fashion corner in the I-D office was always a mecca for ideas and supermodel diversity became one of his many contributions to the international fashion industry.
   â€˜We are thrilled and super proud that I-D’s youngest-ever son has travelled so far in his career and feel very privileged to have known him as a teenager. Edward’s own individual talent, his absolute loyalty, his encouragement and promotion of other peoples’ careers, as well as his love and belief in diversity within the industry, is rare and quite unprecedented. We truly believe that Edward’s creative voice, experience and original inspiration fully justify this very prestigious award!’
   Supermodel Naomi Campbell said, ‘Edward is not only one of my dearest friends and brother, but he is also one of the most outstanding people I have ever had the pleasure of working with. His unique talent, drive and imagination are poured into his work, making him responsible for some of the most heart quickening imagery in the history of fashion.’
   Fashion photographer Stephen Klein added, ‘Edward has exquisite taste and precision and is both sensitive to the aim of the photographer and venue without compromising either.’
   Speaking for the British Fashion Council, Natalie Massenet, its chairman, said, ‘Edward’s creative energy and level of vision captures the mood of our times: his work is original, energetic, sincere and unforgettable. His creative journey may have started in London, but today his influence spans the entire globe intersecting the worlds of fashion, art and business.’
   The British Fashion Awards 2014 is sponsored by Swarovski, Canon, MAC, Toni & Guy, Vodafone, American Express, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes Benz, Penhaligon’s, and Rightster.

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July 10, 2014

Eva Green previews her Campari 2015 calendar appearance: video and photos

Lucire staff/14.13

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Francesco Pizzo

French actress Eva Green is the face of the 2015 Campari calendar, entitled Mythology Mixology. Campari is teasing the calendar with behind-the-scenes images and a video, featuring Green, announcing the project.
   This 16th edition has been photographed by Julia Fullerton-Batten, an acclaimed fine art photographer, and the first female who has shot a Campari calendar.
   The 12 months celebrate Campari’s history and its best loved classic cocktails. Each month tells the story behind the cocktail, with anecdotes and trivia.
   Campari believes that there has been a classic trend over the last decade, and an interest in history, which the calendar attempts to tap into.
   While some may dispute the presence of a classic trend, Campari has been on the pulse in recent years with its calendars. Notably, in 2008, Jessica Alba appeared in its 10th anniversary edition. Other calendar stars include Salma Hayek, Eva Mendes, Milla Jovovich, PenĂ©lope Cruz and Uma Thurman.
   Green, whose Penny Dreadful series is currently netting her headlines in the lead role of Vanessa Ives, came to prominence in Bertolucci’s The Dreamers (2002), and as Bond girl Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale (2006), for which she won a BAFTA. She has recently been seen in 300: Rise of an Empire and will soon be seen in Sin City: a Dame to Kill for.
   â€˜To work with an iconic worldwide brand such as Campari is an honour and a privilege. There is something very special about this year’s theme as it strikes a compelling and almost magical balance between the classic and the contemporary. At the root of each image is this rich sense of history behind each of Campari’s best-loved cocktails but they are presented in a way that is ultra-modern, exuding imagination and style. It’s a thing of incredible beauty and clearly shows that whilst some of these recipes are over 100 years old, they are still relevant to and adored in today’s world,’ said Green in a release.
   Fullerton-Benton is known for her series, Teenage Stories (2005), which followed the transition of a teenage girl into womanhood. Campari says that the photos will carry her hallmarks of creative settings, unusual locations and cinematic lighting.
   â€˜Campari has always had an inherent ability to recreate itself and keep the brand image fresh, inspiring and imaginative—a goal I constantly strive towards in my own work, too. This year’s theme was an interesting challenge, as there was an important job to do in terms of taking historical anecdotes and invigorating them with a modern edge. I’m confident we managed to strike that delicate balance with this year’s imagery,’ says Fullerton-Batten.
   Bob Kunze-Concewitz, CEO of Gruppo Campari says, ‘Though there has always been a sense of timelessness around our classic cocktails, we’ve been hearing reports from bartenders all over the world that there has been a surging popularity for classic recipes like the Negroni and the Americano. This year’s Campari Calendar is designed to celebrate those enduring recipes and the heritage behind them, so we’re very much looking forward to unveiling it later in the year.’








Francesco Pizzo

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May 29, 2014

A tribute to Massimo Vignelli, a design legend

Jack Yan/10.14

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RIT

Massimo Vignelli, who passed away on May 27, was a hero of mine. When receiving the news shortly before it hit the media in a big way, from our mutual friend Stanley Moss, this title’s travel editor and CEO of the Medinge Group, I posted immediately on Facebook: ‘It is a sad duty to note the passing of Massimo Vignelli, one of my heroes in graphic design. When I was starting out in the business, Massimo was one of the greats: a proponent of modernism and simple, sharp typography. His influence is apparent in a lot of the work done by our brand consultancy and in our magazines, even in my 2013 mayoral campaign graphics. A lot of his work from half a century ago has stood the test of time. There was only one degree of separation between us, and I regret that we never connected during his lifetime. The passing of a legend.’
   This Facebook status only scratches the surface of my admiration for Vignelli. There have been more comprehensive obits already (Fast Company Design rightly called him ‘one of the greatest 20th century designers’), detailing his work notably for the New York subway map, and—curiously to me—glossing over the effect he had on corporate design, especially in the US.
   Vignelli, and his wife Lella, a designer in her own right and a qualified architect, set up the Vignelli Office of Design and Architecture in Milano in 1960, which had clients including Pirelli and Olivetti. In 1965, they moved to New York and Vignelli co-founded Unimark International (with Ralph Eckerstrom, James Fogelman, Wally Gutches, Larry Klein, and Bob Noorda), where he was design director. It was the world’s largest design and marketing firm till its closure in 1977.
   The 1960s were a great time for Vignelli and his corporate identities. He worked on American Airlines, Ford, Knoll, and J. C. Penney, and the work was strictly modernist, often employing Helvetica as the typeface family. Vignelli was known to have stuck with six families for most his work—Bodoni was another, a type family based around geometry that, on the surface, tied in to his modernist, logical approach. However, there were underlying reasons, including his belief that Helvetica had an ideal ratio between upper- and lowercase letters, with short ascenders and descenders, lending itself to what he considered classic proportions. The 1989 WTC Our Bodoni, created under Vignelli’s direction by Tom Carnase and commissioned by Bert di Pamphilis, adheres to the same proportions.
   Although my own typeface design background means that I could not adhere to six, there is something to be said for employing a logical approach to design. American corporate design went through a “cleaning up” in the 1960s, with a brighter, bolder sensibility. Detractors might accuse it of being stark, the Helveticization of American design making things too standard. Yet through the 1970s the influence remained, and to my young eyes that decade, this was how professional design should look, contrary to the low-budget work plaguing newspapers and books that I saw as I arrived in the occident.
   When the Vignellis left Unimark to set up Vignelli Associates in 1971 (and later Vignelli Designs in 1978), their stamp remained. The MTA launched Vignelli’s subway map the following year, and like the London Underground map by Harry Beck in 1931, it ignored what was above ground in favour of a logical diagram with the stops. Beck was a technical draftsman and the approach must have found favour with Vignelli, just as it did with those creating maps for the Paris MĂ©tropolitain and the Berlin U-bahn.
   New Yorkers didn’t take to the Vignelli map as well as Londoners and Parisians, and it was replaced in 1979 with one that was more geographically accurate to what was above ground.
   In 1973, Vignelli worked on the identity for Bloomingdale’s, and his work endures: the Big Brown Bag is his work, and it continues to be used by the chain today. Cinzano, Lancia and others continue with Vignelli’s designs.
   Ironically, despite a rejection of fashion in favour of timelessness, some of the work is identified with the 1960s and 1970s, notably thanks to the original cut of Helvetica, which has only recently been revived (a more modern cut is commonplace), and which is slightly less popular today. Others, benefiting from more modern layout programs and photography, look current to 2010s eyes, such as Vignelli Associates’ work for the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.
   The approach taken by Lucire in its print editions has a sense of modernism that has a direct Vignelli influence, including the use of related typeface families since we went to retail print editions in 2004. Our logotype itself, dating from 1997, has the sort of simplicity that I believe Vignelli would have approved of.
   Vignelli was, fortunately, fĂȘted during his lifetime. He received the Compasso d’Oro from ADI twice (1964 and 1998), the AIGA Gold Medal (1983), the Presidential Design Award (1985), the Honorary Royal Designer for Industry Award from the Royal Society of Arts (1996), the National Lifetime Achievement Award from the Cooper–Hewitt National Museum of Design (2003), among many. He holds honorary doctorates from seven institutions, including the Rochester Institute of Technology (2002). Rochester has a Vignelli Center for Design Studies, whose website adheres to his design principles and where educational programmes espouse his modernist approach. It also houses the Vignellis’ professional archive.
   He is survived by his wife, Lella, who continues to work as CEO of Vignelli Associates and president of Vignelli Designs; their son, Luca, their daughter, Valentina Vignelli Zimmer, and three grandchildren.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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May 2, 2014

Naomi Watts, Nicola Bulgari, Veronica Bulgari—VIPs at Bulgari: 130 Years of Masterpieces in Houston

Lucire staff/1.38

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Michelle Watson/CatchLight Group LLC


Chinh Phan/CatchLight Group LLC

Bulgari opened its 130 Years of Masterpieces exhibition at the Houston Museum of Natural Science with Bulgari vice-chairman Nicola Bulgari, his daughter Veronica Bulgari, and actress Naomi Watts in attendance, along with Wendi Grimes, chair of the Museum, Joel Bartsch, its president and CEO, and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin.
   The exhibition begins May 2 and runs through October 5, 2014.
   The function on Wednesday brought together 220 guests at the Museum, who enjoyed an Italian dinner in a setting evoking the Scalinata della TrinitĂ  dei Monti (the Spanish Steps). Modern pianist Elizaveta (a.k.a. Elly K.) performed live at the venue. Other guests included Lynn Wyatt, Joanne King Herring, Sima Ladjevardian, Greggory Burk, Isabel David, Becca Cason Thrash, Christina Girard, J. J. Watts, Divya Brown, Claire Cormier Thielke, Ashley Menzies, David Grimes, Valerie Sarofim, Annie Amante, Mickey Rosmarin, Alberto Festa, Linda McReynolds, Scotty and Jana Arnoldy, and Monica Hartland Blaisdell.
   The exhibition features c. 150 pieces and is said to be the most substantial Bulgari retrospective featuring the Heritage Collection. Many pieces are from the personal collection of Dame Elizabeth Taylor, and others, some which have never been seen publicly before, are on loan from Wyatt, Herring and Girard. Sketches, photographs, archival materials and interactive displays provide context.
   â€˜The exhibit has came to Houston for 130 years of the company because Houston is a mirror of Bulgari values—it’s a bold, powerful, daring entrepreneur city, always forward thinking in exactly what Bulgari stands for in the world of jewellery, so it’s a great match,’ said Babin in a release.
   Naomi Watts wore a stunning one-of-a-kind Serpenti necklace from Bulgari’s high jewellery collection (a sleek double-coil diamond Serpenti in white gold with two pear shaped diamonds [1·04 ct], emeralds [48·67 ct], and pavĂ© diamonds [170·50 ct]), and carried a Bulgari cocktail evening pochette in palm embroidered silver and gold. Wyatt wore an 8 ct white gold necklace (with 29 emerald cut diamonds [57·45 ct] and 567 round brilliant cut diamonds [44·22 ct]), as well as an 18 ct white gold bracelet (12 emerald diamonds [16·95 ct] and 374 round brilliant cut diamonds [23·51 ct]), and an 18 ct white gold diamond bracelet (28·92 ct). Herring wore an 18 ct white gold necklace with sapphires (93·64 ct), peridots (161·85 ct), milky quartzes and round brilliant diamonds (21·29 ct), and matching earrings.


Michelle Watson/CatchLight Group LLC



Chinh Phan/CatchLight Group LLC





Michelle Watson/CatchLight Group LLC



Chinh Phan/CatchLight Group LLC

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April 4, 2014

Iranian-born Mahshid Mahdian wins Emerging Designers’ Award at ID Dunedin

Lucire staff/7.59

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Chris Sullivan/Seen in Dunedin

Mahshid Mahdian, from Brera Academy, Milano, won the ID Dunedin Emerging Designers’ Award and its NZ$10,000 prize on Thursday night.
   Mahdian’s collection, Shadow, was inspired by shadows in Burano Island in Venezia, and features geometrical shapes and innovative technologies.
   The Tehrān-born designer was encouraged by Mittelmoda’s Stefano Sopelza to enter the awards.
   Judge and World creative director Francis Hooper said in a release, ‘While overall, the standard of finalists were amazing, the winners stood out because their unique character and personality as a designer came through in their garments.
   â€˜Mahshid captured a moment in a heartbeat 
 When you looked at her collection, you knew she had it just right. It delivered on that inexplicable X-factor.’
   Alanna Barca of RMIT won the CaffĂš l’AffarĂš second-place prize of NZ$4,000; Chin Hau Tay of RMIT won third place with the Dunedin International Airport prize of NZ$2,000.
   A special prize was awarded to Vaibhav Singh of NIFT, who wins an internship with Martin Grant in Paris.

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March 3, 2014

12 Years a Slave scoops Best Film at 2014 Oscars; Lupita Nyong’o wins Best Supporting Actress

Lucire staff/9.00

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Top Lupita Nyong’o in a Prada silk georgette gown accessorized with Fred Leighton gold jewellery. Above Lupita Nyong’o on the red carpet.

The tension over the 86th Academy Awards ended as 12 Years a Slave was awarded Best Picture on Sunday, though Gravity managed a tally of seven (including Best Director for Alfonso CuarĂłn) and Dallas Buyers’ Club took the two male acting gongs for Matthew McConaughey (in the lead) and Jared Leto (supporting). Cate Blanchett won Best Actress of Blue Jasmine, while the most talked-about celeb of awards’ season, Lupita Nyong’o, won Best Supporting Actress for 12 Years a Slave.
   Host Ellen DeGeneres’s Twitter photo with Bradley Cooper and other celebrities broke a record, being re-Tweeted over 2·3 million times (at the time of writing) since it was put on the social network.
   Below are the remaining winners from this year’s Oscars.

Best Original Screenplay: Spike Jones, for Her
Best Adapted Screenplay: John Ridley, for 12 Years a Slave
Best Animated Feature Film: Frozen
Best Documentary Feature: 20 Feet from Stardom
Best Foreign Language Film: La grande bellezza (The Great Beauty)
Best Visual Effects: Tim Webber, Chris Lawrence, Dave Shirk and Neil Corbould for Gravity
Best Film Editing: Alfonso CuarĂłn and Mark Sanger for Gravity
Best Cinematography: Emmanuel Lubezki for Gravity
Best Costume Design: Catherine Martin for The Great Gatsby
Best Make-up and Hairstyling: Adruitha Lee and Robin Mathews for Dallas Buyers’ Club
Best Production Design: Catherine Martin and Beverley Dunn for The Great Gatsby
Best Sound Mixing: Skip Lievsay, Niv Adiri, Christopher Benstead and Chris Munro for Gravity
Best Sound Editing: Glenn Freemantle for Gravity
Best Original Score: Steven Price for Gravity
Best Original Song: ‘Let It Go’, from Frozen, music and lyric by Kristen Anderson-LĂłpez and Robert LĂłpez
Best Animated Short Film: Mr Hublot, directed by Laurent Witz and Alexandre Espigares
Best Live-Action Short Film: Helium, directed by Anders Walter and Kim Magnusson
Best Documentary Short Subject: The Lady in Number 6: Music Saved My Life, directed by Malcolm Clarke and Nicholas Reed

Red-carpet arrivals

Glamour on the red carpet

Baby bumps on the red carpet

Jennifer Lawrence trips again

Oscars 2014: all about the selfie

Jared Leto wins Best Supporting Actor

Lupita Nyong’o wins Best Supporting Actress

Cate Blanchett wins Best Actress

Matthew McConaughey wins Best Actor

12 Years a Slave wins Best Film

Highlights


Above Ellen DeGeneres’s Twitter photo with Bradley Cooper in the foreground, which had been re-Tweeted over 2·3 million times.

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