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February 26, 2015

All in good taste: the Secret Room’s 2015 Oscar lounge

Elyse Glickman/5.40

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Above Night Fox by Kate Finley was the jewellery stand-out at the Oscar edition of the Secret Room Beauty Bar & Luxury Lounge this year.

Depending on how you see it, an Oscar event staged in a small courtyard and an adjoining room can either read as “exclusive”, “intimate” or “scaled down”. While the roving day spa-and-boutique complexes staged on sprawling estates of 2005 have found their place in Hollywood lore, in 2015, they are pretty much replaced with self-contained pocket-sized lounges whose live vendors support the theme of an event’s charity of choice. And sometimes, less really can be more.
   This go round, Rita Branch and Amy Boatwright’s Secret Room Beauty Bar & Luxury Lounge trumpeted the organization Fashionomics Live!, which offers high school students an engaging career exploring process behind the scenes at businesses and events. The group’s Tour Stop and Pop-Up internship programme helps students embrace the process of exploring multiple professions and careers in fashion and other industries with the intention of helping them become better prepared for their college years.
   Tony & Guy took over one corner of the W Hotel Westwood’s courtyard (where Red Carpet Events staged their pre-Grammy celebration), treating VIPs to with spa, beauty, massage and hair services, while those waiting could sip on new branded coffees from Guy Fieri and the Cake Boss and snack on decadent ice-cream-flavoured yoghurt from German company MĂŒller or sip BrainToniq energy drinks. Ancestry.com was also on hand to provide a perspective on the unique things that made the guests (literally) what they are today.
   After those nifty touch-ups press and celebrities could stock up on fat blockers by Calorease, vitamin gummies from Fiber Choice for immunity and metabolism boosts, heartburn relief from Gutsy Chewy, brow boosters from Revitalash, and fantastic wine from Argentine and Chilean producers. Silver Jewelry by Night Fox by Kate Finley was the fashion highlight of the event, with its rough hewn elegance offset by semiprecious and precious stones. Kate’s pieces are hand-crafted from recycled sterling silver and gold using techniques such as Torch fusion (connecting metal without solder) reticulation (surface of the metal is heated to melting point and then quickly cooled) and lost wax casting.
   Bags reserved exclusively for celebrity guests included vouchers for vacations at some of the world’s great resorts (including Anantara, Waiakea, Old Bahama Bay, West Glow Resort & Spa and the Aria Hotel in Budapest) as well as fashion and accessories from LeTarte, Elizabeth Jane, Huit, Paula Callejas and Uzurii Swarovski-encrusted flip-flops.—Elyse Glickman, US West Coast Editor

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February 24, 2015

Kathryn Wilson launches Baby Wilson, a designer shoe line for babies

Lucire staff/12.53

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Kathryn Wilson, arguably New Zealand’s best known shoe designer, whose first appearance was in Lucire’s pages, has branched out with a babies’ range of footwear, called Baby Wilson.
   Wilson had already extended her core Kathryn Wilson range, with Miss Wilson and the children’s line Little Miss Wilson.
   As a new mother herself, Wilson’s new line for autumn 2015 is a hand-made unisex range for babies aged six to eighteen months, in supple calf leather, with cream, gold and black shades, along with cute polka dots on some designs. The first style, Lola, is a lace-up bootie.
   The new range is now available at Kathryn Wilson retailers, and online at www.kathrynwilson.com.





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The wonderment of Flow

Tamara Madison/12.46

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There’s nothing like a carefully plated delicious meal that will get conversation started at the dinner table. Food generally brings families and friends together, and like food, fashion tends to gather hungry crowds just the same. A room full of thirsty appetites, whether desiring a glass of shiraz or craving a fresh take on classic silhouettes is all digested best with a dose of sustenance.
   Flow, a burgeoning fashion label founded by two sisters, Victoria and Veronika, understands how to design in harmony. Their Belgian–Ukrainian label, not to be confused with the Malaysia-based clothing retailer of the same name, embodies the art of creating just the right amount of what the Swedes call lagom, and it shows throughout their collections.
   Pieces are not overly designed. Instead, garments are braised predominantly in pure silk and cotton, then enriched by colour or finishing shape. The sisters experiment with volume, whilst using the unconventional as an undercurrent in designing. The result is a pensive (spring–summer 2015) collection full of playful prints with child-like embraces, Japanese-inspired shapes, and a modern perspective on sportswear.
   The designing pair has managed to produce a smörgĂ„sbord of distinct and charming garments to satiate fashion palates, especially if it favours edgy, artful, and quirky styles. Nonetheless, the pleasant appeal of a Flow garment might also be the fact that it can be worn by diverse women. ‘The most essential is to have that “special something” inside of you. That feminine, sensitive and elegant, yet kindly ironic thing that is very Flow. It is more about chemistry and common wit,’ the designers said, regarding the Flow woman.
   So, what’s the secret to the flourishing brand? Well, their approach to design is much like a gourmet recipe, using key ingredients to craft a tasty and well balanced dish to savour. Their main course is just also served with a side of passion, meticulousness, and confidence. And, like your grandmother’s recipe secrets, when it comes to the artful process, they prefer to keep it close to home.
   In fact, the sisters are involved in all aspects of the design process. However, having just under a dozen people in their design team certainly helps. ‘When we seek new co-workers, we primarily seek professionals who can become new members of the family. Creation of a collection is a group process and mutual understanding has great influence on the result,’ the designers confessed.
   In their spring–summer 2015 collection, you will see a palette of red, white, and blue with accented colours that look as vivid as a fresh floral bouquet. Pieces like the pyjama-esque silk garment with kookaburra bird drawings are eye-catching. The line is full of sprightly, sophisticated sportswear with a contemporary gracefulness that’s hard to ignore. But, that’s mostly because of the designer’s underlining influence, including the Ɠuvres of Niko Pirosmani and Ivan Semesyuk. ‘The spirit [of the line] is childish and patrician at the same time,’ the designers said.
   Flow’s offerings come in a range of styles, with pieces that can easily be translated into workwear, or casual elegance for the avant-garde art enthusiast. There are silhouettes for the classic fashion darling, as well as separates that exemplify opulence at its very core. The designers have fused a nourishing concoction of culture and art, creating a smart fashion paella, all which seems to give them a discerning compound of depth and simplicity.
   The young brand’s maturity in execution and outlook is well seasoned. And, with only a handful of collections under their belt, there’s much that they have already learned from having a fashion business. ‘It requires lots of time and enormous sources of energy … true fashion is always about the dream, the feeling, and the humanly approach,’ Flow said.
   You may view Flow’s upcoming autumn-winter collection at the BeNext showroom during this Paris fashion week, and at the TranoĂŻ exhibition shown in Milano.
   For more information, visit www.flowthelabel.com.—Tamara Madison



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February 20, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 6 and 7: glamour and soft palettes

Lucire staff/23.16

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Dan Lecca

Above Lie Sangbong’s autumn–winter 2015–16 looks, which also feature in Lola Cristall’s forthcoming New York report.

Our final clips before Lola Cristall’s Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week report for the fall–winter 2015–16 collections are below, with videos from Michael Kors, Jenny Packham, Zang Toi, Lupe Gajardo, the Art Institutes, Bibhu Mohapatra, Lie Sangbong, Francesca Liberatore, Leanne Marshall, Thomas Wylde, Anna Sui, Erin Fetherston, Iijin, Malan Breton, Tokyo Runway, Sergio Davila, Dorin Negrau and AmFAR.
   Our London Fashion Week live player is currently on our home page. On the main part of the site, NYC beauty editor Jamie Dorman has her picks for skin-like foundations, while publisher Jack Yan samples the Peugeot 308 Allure Blue HDi in our ‘Living’ section.

Michael Kors

Jenny Packham

Zang Toi

Lupe Gajardo

The Art Institutes

Bibhu Mohapatra

Lie Sangbong

Francesca Liberatore

Leanne Marshall

Thomas Wylde

Anna Sui

Erin Fetherston

Iijin

Malan Breton

Tokyo Runway

Sergio Davila

Dorin Negrau

AmFAR

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February 18, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, day 5: from romantic silks to Taoray Wang’s dramatic style

Lucire staff/1.58

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Above Vivienne Tam’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection paid respect not only to Tam’s Chinese culture but the occidental interpretation of it in chinoiserie. (Courtesy Vivienne Tam; photographed by Dan Lecca.)

Day five of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was the biggest day of the week, as we showcase videos from the fall–winter 2015–16 collections below from Parkchoonmoo, Carolina Herrera, La Petite Robe, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Prabal Gurung, Vivienne Tam, Libertine, Badgley Mischka, J. Crew, Lela Rose, Naeem Khan, Michael Costello, and Skingraft. Taoray Wang, Oudifu and Georgine appear on our pages for the first time.
   Carolina Herrera showed an aquatic-themed collection with wool and organza, with blues and greys. Chiara Boni’s La Petite Robe got us into the Italian mood with classic songs played as the audience arrived, and through the show itself, with ‘VolarĂ©’ and ‘’O Sole Mio’, displaying a creative use of stretch jersey and sheer fabrics. Reem Acra went romantic with embellishments, layers and lace, with blacks, reds and golds; Vivienne Tam also used lace to good effect with her collection, along with rich, floral patterns evoking chinoiserie and Victorian costume.
   Taoray Wang, helming a label that first appeared for the spring–summer 2015 catwalks, was a pleasant surprise, with her sense of drama and volume: statement coats, big collars, turtle necks, dotted prints and angular shapes made us sit up and notice, and we believe she’s a label to watch out for. This was a classic winter collection that we believe will hit the mark well when autumn hits the US. Georgine used plenty of metallic, shimmering fabrics as it took us back to the second half of the 1970s.
   A more comprehensive report led by Paris editor Lola Cristall will appear in an upcoming issue of Lucire.

Parkchoonmoo

Carolina Herrera

La Petite Robe

Taoray Wang

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Pamella Roland

Reem Acra

Prabal Gurung

Vivienne Tam

Libertine

Oudifu

Badgley Mischka

Georgine

J. Crew

Lela Rose

Naeem Khan

Michael Costello

Skingraft

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February 15, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 3 and 4: vibrant and embellished

Eleanor Wright/23.19

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Above Custo Barcelona’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York (courtesy the designer and Getty Images).

Noon by Noor’s fall–winter 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York delivered a stunning display of clean forms and exquisitely shaped silhouettes. Composed in a dark palette featuring monochromatic textures and materials with delicate pops of gold, silver, purple and sparkling embellishments, this latest line is a testament to creativity and coherence.
   Son Jung Wan divulges into a realm of purple, blue, grey, gold and red to deliver a spectacular range of looks featuring glistening gowns, fur-embellished sleeves, treated metallic fabrics and skilfully structured jackets. Each piece makes a statement that dares to be different and each look perpetuates an individuality stemming from thematic inspiration.
   David Tlale’s collection for New York Fashion Week is absolutely mesmerizing with soft forms and earthy tones. The palette resonates with deep grey, light browns, soft creams and gold in contrast with the sultry flow of the fabrics and the fluid compositions of the designs.
   Ranfan demonstrates that orange is definitely the new black with a vibrant collection of rich orange, yellow, red and pinks offset with cool hues of grey, blue, white and black compositions. Geometric floral prints, fur and shimmering fabrics are featured throughout this eclectic line conveying a strong ethereal presence in each look.
   The Custo Barcelona collection, Shake Before Use, composed a myriad of their signature intricate detailing through designs, patterns, forms and textures across their collection. A carefully articulated blend of plaid, tweed, fur, metallic, geometric graphics and many more styles clash together in effortless unity.—Eleanor Wright

Nicole Miller

Monique Lhuillier

Lacoste

Noon by Noor

Son Jung Wan

Hervé Léger

Mara Hoffman

Venexiana

Vivienne Hu

Ranfan

David Tlale

Carmen Marc Valvo

Custo Barcelona

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February 13, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2015–16, days 1 and 2: from elegance to fringes

Eleanor Wright/18.59

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Above Rebecca Minkoff, fall–winter 2015–16, at New York Fashion Week.

Paris editor Lola Cristall will lead our Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York coverage for fall–winter 2015–16. In the meantime, here is a selection of videos from the first two days of the event.
   Our expandable live player can be found on our home page, and below.
   The words divine, graceful and dream-like do not begin to describe the glamorous wonderland that Tadashi Shoji’s collection belong in. From everyday pieces to evening gowns every look emerges with timeless tranquility and ethereal elegance. In black and white, purple and green, tulle or silk, embellished or translucent each piece expresses a unity between art and femininity through minimalist detail and flawless silhouettes.
   BCBG Max Azria, always a favourite of ours each New York Fashion Week, showed a collection with wonderful statement patchwork coats, along with romantic dresses, with details (including the leather trim) and prints inspired by beading and handcrafts.
   Rebecca Minkoff channelled a 1970s vibe with a collection inspired by Patti Smith, with fringe (of all lengths), leather, suede, wool, and knee-high boots, all while managing to look light, thanks to the mixture of fabrics and decent styling. We loved the jackets and vests, neatly layered, as well as the long Sherpa coats. Blacks, whites and browns all made appearances, the last colour reminding us how in that decade, brown could be made to look fashionable—and Minkoff did just that with her boho chic fall collection.—Eleanor Wright, with Lucire staff

Live player

Nicholas K

Tadashi Shoji

Desigual

BCBG Max Azria

Todd Snyder

Mark & Estel

Rebecca Minkoff

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February 6, 2015

Juliette Binoche, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou, Toni Garrn at first night of Berlin film festival

Lucire staff/12.44

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Franziska Krug

Isabel Coixet’s Nadie quiere la noche (Nobody Wants the Night) kicked off the Berlinale, the 65th Berlin International Film Festival, on Thursday, with one of the event’s most glamorous red carpet entrances.
   The Juliette Binoche starrer, a bio-pic about Josephine Peary and her 1908 North Pole trek to find her husband, Robert E. Peary, saw not only its star, but Audrey Tautou, Daniel BrĂŒhl, Felicitas Rombold, Christoph Waltz, Hannelore Elsner, Iris Berben, Peter Lohmeyer, Jena Malone, Senta Berger, Katharina SchĂŒttler, Toni Garrn, Mike Rockenfeller, and AndrĂ© Lotterer.
   The second film of the first night was another bio-pic, Queen of the Night, starring Nicole Kidman, trading the icescape for desert. Kidman plays Gertrude Bell, the British political officer who helped the Hashemite dynasties in modern-day Jordan and Iraq, and she attended the premiĂšre with co-stars James Franco and Damian Lewis, director Werner Herzog, and SPD politician Manuela Schwesig.
   Audi, as a sponsor of the event, chauffeured celebrities with a variety of decked-out models, including the A8, A5 Sportback and TT, but the big surprise was the Crossover CoupĂ©, a concept car, that Elsner and Berben arrived in.













Franziska Krug




Franziska Krug


Gisela Schober

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