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Catching our eye: stand-outs at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards


NEWS  by Chris Park/March 26, 2017/11.52

Thirty finalists were selected to showcase their capsule collections at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards’ runway show. Hosted on a crisp autumn evening in the iconic Dunedin Railway Station, the finalists were chosen by a panel of judges from over 150 different entrants, with designers coming from all over the world.
   Head judge Tanya Carlson said that, although it might sound clichĂ© and make her sound like a broken record, she truly believes that the standard of the submissions continues to rise and we were fortunate to see some of the talent.
   Here were some of the designers which particularly caught our attention.

Marina, Talia Jimenez, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
Winner of the Golden Centre Prize for the Most Commercial Collection




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   First off the runway, the collection featured playful digital prints of overlapping marine animals. Jimenez balanced the vibrant imagery by using mostly pastel colours for the prints and keeping the overall colour palette minimal.
   The collection was inspired by a trip to the Sydney Fish Markets in Piermont, where she experienced an overwhelming cacophony of marine-themed advertisements, overfilled crates of prawns, and mud crabs tied up in string everywhere.
   The prints were featured on PVC overalls faced with cotton worn with merino turtleneck knits, and oversized raincoats, referencing clothing traditionally worn by fishermen. The prints might be fun but the imposition of the prints on top of “fishermen” alludes to the over-exploitation of the marine ecosystem, and our excess indulgence in the spoils of the sea.




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Close-ups from Talia Jimenez’s Marina collection.

The Daily Show, Megan Stewart, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
NZME and ‘Viva’ Editorial Prize for Best New Zealand Collection







Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   This collection is a sharp critique on the distortionary effect that electronic communication and mass media have on our perception of reality. The distortionary effect is expressed in a very literal sense by the use of distorted imagery from television shows and twisted knits.
   She references digital media and the pixels of a screen by incorporating 90-degree angles and rectangles in her patterns, which further add to the warping when the square clothing twists around the human form.
   The television imagery was selected and distorted by Stewart herself, before being printed onto hessian-like material. The shoulder construction hangs by the elbows, adding to the warping effect on our perception of the clothing.
   The bright playful colours and mesmerizing patterns belie the warning messages that Stewart transmits to the viewer, of how being absorbed into media will warp one’s perception of reality.

XXX, Nehma Vitols, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
H&J First Prize








Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   Vitols’s collection was ethereal. The pieces looked like they were hovering in front and behind the models rather than being worn by them, and yet it the composite fabric used by Vitols that gave it a stiffness belying the translucency of the wraith-like materials.
   Nehma created this material by taking silk organza and bonding it with stiff cotton organdy, then applying laser-cut Tyvek detailing in white to add visual depth. As the models walked down the runway, the fabric would shimmer and float, as if it had a mind of its own.
   The pieces were cleverly constructed from scraps of fabric left over from creating archetypal garments, held together using a combination of ties made out of leftover strips of fabric, contrast top-stitching and golden zips, which provided some weight and textural contrast to the sheer fabric.
   The complexity of the construction, the innovative materials and the brilliant execution led to Vitols taking out the grand prize at ID for 2017. Congratulations!—Chris Park, Special Correspondent




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Detail from Nehma Vitols’s collection, XXX, which took first prize at the ID Emerging Designer Awards.

H&M: more Conscious Exclusive details and images featuring Natalia Vodianova, plus first peek at childrenswear


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 24, 2017/17.33

Hennes & Mauritz has released further images from the H&M Conscious Exclusive collections, previewed in Lucire in February.
   A plissĂ© dress made of Bionic, a sustainable polyester made from recycled shoreline waste, was part of the preview, but H&M has revealed more about other designs made from the fabric.
   The company has screen-printed distorted peonies and mimosa on to the fabric for ‘dream-like prints’, while an image of a dreaming woman has been quilted into its jacket.
   Designers have also added sequins to a recycled polyester cocktail dress, while a tuxedo comes in organic silk and Tencel twill. There’s a fishnet bag made from shoreline waste, and earrings from recycled glass and plastic.
   Children’s designs also feature for the first time, with tulle dresses and structured blazers and trousers.
   H&M head of design and creative director Pernilla Wohlfahrt said in a release, ‘For this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection at H&M, we thought not only about the look of the pieces, but also how they feel and sound. It’s a collection to please all our senses, and also our desire to be sustainable in everything we do.’
   â€˜H&M’s Conscious Exclusive collection shows how the best style can be mindful of the planet, to help protect it for the future. It’s such a desirable collection, with pieces made in sustainable materials that you want to wear for seasons to come,’ added model Natalia Vodianova, who fronts the campaign.
   Vodianova also founded Elbi, a digital philanthropy platform connecting users with a charities worldwide. H&M says it will continue to partner with the platform.
   The collections will go on sale in c. 160 stores worldwide, from April 20.







BRM Chronographes announces limited-edition, hand-made Martini Racing chronographs


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 23, 2017/11.52


Despite most brands announcing smart watches, one company remains true to traditional hand manufacture, emphasizing quality.
   BRM Chronographes, which machines and assembles its exclusive watches by hand in Vexin, France, has announced two limited-edition watches in partnership with Martini Racing.
   The two watches bear the famous Martini Racing blue and red stripes, as well as detailing from the car world, namely perforated hands, piston pushers and straps with holes. The crown, on the 44 mm stainless steel case, has a Martini Racing logo. BRM Chronographes will only make 150 of each type, one with a white dial and strap, the other with navy blue.
   BRM eschews mass manufacture, and makes only 2,000 watches per year.
   The timeless designs will be released in June 2017, and retail at €7,200.

Converse celebrates 100 years of the Chuck Taylor All Star with a series of films


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 16, 2017/11.23





Above, from top: The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star. The All Star ’70, evoking the decade of big lapels and platform shoes. The Chuck Taylor All Star II. In black, the lightweight Chuck Taylor All Star Modern.

Converse, which began in 1908, has been making the All Star shoe, later the Chuck Taylor shoe, continuously since 1917.
   It’s the most successful type of shoe in history, with 200,000 pairs sold daily. Its nickname came after Charles H. Taylor, a basketball player for the Akron Firestones, who became one of the shoe’s biggest supporters. By 1932, with input from Taylor, it officially gained his name.
   Converse has been adding variations to the Chuck Taylor shoe over the years, including the Chuck Taylor All Star II in 2015, a premium design with more colours and a liner borrowed from parent company Nike, which bought up Converse at the turn of the century.
   There’s also the Chuck Taylor All Star ’70s model that dĂ©buts more colours for spring–summer 2017, a design that harks back to the 1970s but with more cushioning and thicker rubber. Then there’s the Chuck Taylor All Star Modern that’s lightweight, again available in an all-new version this month.
   To celebrate the centenary of the All Star, Converse has launched a digital and social media series that looks at what made the line iconic.
   Millie Bobby Brown presents a video called Chucks in Film, with excerpts showing a previous Chuck Taylor All Star appearance (Michael J. Fox’s shoes in Back to the Future) and an interview with costume designer Stephanie Collie. Long Beach artist Vince Staples, Born × Raised creator Spanto and basketball player Jordan Clarkson discuss how Los Angeles culture impacted on the Chuck Taylor All Stars’ ĂŠsthetic. Finally, model Winnie Harlow looks at the Chuck Taylor All Stars’ connection to the fashionable set and youth culture. A final film, Forever Chuck, is a nonconformist commercial that celebrates youth and the Converse brand.
   The four videos are featured below as Converse marks 100 years of its All Stars.

Emily Ratajkowski leads DKNY’s intimate apparel campaign; Anna Nooshin models Hunkemöller’s swimwear


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 14, 2017/0.40



Sebastian Faena

DKNY has announced its spring–summer 2017 intimates, hosiery and sleepwear campaign featuring model Emily Ratajkowski, photographed by Sebastian Faena in New York.
   The first image was released today, along with a film starring Ratajkowski and styled by Clare Richardson, set in a Manhattan apartment. Ratajkowski walks out of her apartment to walk her dog wearing a DKNY unlined demi bra and boy short from its lace collection. The promotional film appears at DKNY.com and at locations around the city.
   The campaign, #GoodMorningDKNY, also sees Ratajkowski wearing a sheer lace bralette and low-rise bikini, with a mesh Litewear bodysuit paired with a fishnet thigh-high in nude.
   The collections are priced between US$12 and US$62, and are available at DKNY, Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and Macy’s, on- and offline, and at select international retailers.
   Meanwhile, Hunkemöller has released its swimwear collection, modelled by Dutch new-media star Anna Nooshin, who can claim 358,000 followers on Instagram and 130,000 subscribers on YouTube.
   Nooshin models items from the spring–summer 2017 range in Aruba. The swimwear features embroidery, appliquĂ© detailing and lace-up details. Hunkemöller predicts the season’s key colour is mangosteen.
   She has designed accessories, including a kimono and clutch, to complement the swimwear. Hunkemöller has hashtagged the campaign #AnnaforHKM. The range is available online now via www.hunkemoller.co.uk.











www.hunkemoller.co.uk

La Vie en Rose launches new bra campaign, focusing on comfort and individual beauty


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 10, 2017/23.43

Canadian brand la Vie en Rose has unveiled a brassiĂšre campaign focused on each woman’s individual beauty, a theme that has been emerging lately in marketing intimate apparel.
   Its rival on the other side of the Atlantic, Triumph, has a campaign recognizing a woman’s many roles, and that she must find the perfect fit. La Vie on Rose, meanwhile, also recognizes that women have different needs but she must have comfort. The execution is very different: the Canadian label has a group of models from different ethnic backgrounds, ages (albeit still young) and bust size, promoting each woman’s confidence.
   La Vie en Rose’s Marie-NoĂ«l Gervais, VP for ecommerce and marketing strategy, said, ‘Nothing makes a woman more beautiful than the confidence she radiates. At la Vie en Rose, we are convinced that a woman can be confident only if she is comfortable first. Our new Confidence through Comfort campaign is not a repositioning, because comfort has always been a priority for la Vie en Rose. It is an evolution of our image, a clear affirmation of who we are, and of our products’ DNA.’
   She added, ‘We have a social media community that shares a lot with us. They want to feel good first, please themselves before anyone else and accept and enjoy who they are and how they look.’
   A new style, the Sweetheart (above), was also launched to coincide with the new campaign. The design offers the wearer a ‘perfect contour’ without extra padding, and offers a moderate cleavage.


The Modist launches retail site for modest fashion, while Getty Images and MuslimGirl.com announce photo library


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 9, 2017/10.01

The Modist, an online store for modest fashion, opened yesterday, shipping to over 100 countries. The store has a selection of over 75 designers, including Marni, Alberta Ferretti, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou, ensuring a contemporary, fashionable selection. The store is accompanied by an online magazine called The Mod, which includes styling tips and interviews. Says founder Ghizlan Guenez, ‘Our mission is to build a strong sense of purpose to empower a woman’s freedom of choice and to acknowledge how similar women across the world are, despite our diverse backgrounds, cultures and lifestyles—a relevant conversation at this time. We aim to break down preconceived notions while building a community and dialogue that invigorates, informs and celebrates the fashionable, modern, modest woman.’
   The Modist’s COO, Lisa Bridgett, notes that the market potential in the modest fashion segment is projected to reach US$484,000 million by 2019.
   Also in recognition of a more global, inclusive society, MuslimGirl.com and Getty Images announced yesterday a content partnership that aims to convey a more authentic representation of Muslim women. The imagery is far more realistic and positive, battling stereotypes and misconceptions. The photographs feature girls with and without hijabs, and Muslim women in everyday situations at home, with friends and at work.
   â€˜One of the ways I open up my talks is by asking the audience to search Muslim women images on their phone browsers, which is always met with their awe at the unsettling results,’ said Amani Al-Khatahtbeh, founder and editor-in-chief of MuslimGirl.com. ‘I don’t want to be able to use that example anymore, and I could not be prouder to partner with Getty Images on finally taking on such an important and influential task.’

H&M stays positive with unisex denim line, following love-themed Paris catwalk show


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 8, 2017/20.59



Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) has announced a new denim line, Denim United. The difference this time is that it is a truly unisex collection, with identical women’s and men’s designs, with jackets, overalls, shorts, T-shirts and an oversized hoody. The materials and silhouettes are shared between the sexes.
   More sustainable materials have been used, including organic and recycled cotton.
   The collection goes on sale on March 23, online-only at hm.com.
   â€˜It is very natural for us to launch a unisex collection as fashion is constantly evolving and intersecting and today we see there are no boundaries in democratic style. Fashion should always be inclusive,’ said Marybeth Schmitt of H&M in a release.
   The announcement follows H&M Studio’s showing of its spring–summer 2017 women’s and men’s collections at the Tennis Club de Paris during Paris Fashion Week, where the designs went on sale at its flagship Fifth Avenue store in New York and online immediately. They went on sale in other stores on March 2.
   Celebrities in attendance in Paris included Nicki Minaj, Olga Kurylenko, Alexa Chung, Lucky Blue Smith, ClĂ©mence PoĂ©sy and Sasha Lane, while Emily Ratajkowski led the celebrations in New York.
   Models walking in Paris included Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Adwoa Aboah, Amber Valletta, Jordan Barrett, Winnie Harlow and Luis Borges. The Weeknd gave a special performance at the Paris show, performing ‘Starboy’, ‘Can’t Feel My Face’ and ‘I Feel It Coming’.
   The collection featured fine knits, loose-fitting shorts, tops, dresses, anoraks and sandals, with ruffle detailing and bold graphics proclaiming ‘Love’.
   â€˜With this collection we want to send a global message of love. There are a few pieces that carry the word again and again, kind of like a ticker tape and as a constant reminder of what is important. It feels like now, more than ever, we all need positive feelings and thoughts in our lives,’ said H&M creative director and head of design Pernilla Wohlfahrt.

Paris show

Backstage

The celebrities

The show

The Weeknd

New York event

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