September 29âs Ikea Fashion Show at Moda di Milano (hashtagged both #IKEAfashion and #IKEAtemporary) showcased work from two designers who collaborated with the Swedish-founded furniture conglomerate.
âWith a number of new collections that have been developed in collaboration with fashion designers, Ikea is stepping into new territoryâone from which we can learn a lot,â according to the company.
Giltig by Katie Eary and SvĂ¤rtan by Martin BergstrĂśm will see their collections retailed in 2016, but they received a boost in profile thanks to their appearance at one of the top fashion weeks in the world.
For us, the first thing that came to mind when seeing Ikea fashion was Stefan Engesethâs (below right) prediction, published in Lucire first last year, and later in Style.com, the Daily Mail, The Guardian and Flare, plus a number of newspapers and news websites: that fashion should be Ikeaâs next industry.
At the time, Ikea had no such plans officially, but it isnât surprising to see another one of Engesethâs predictions come true. He came up with the idea of Coca-Cola being served through taps at home before Coke itself actually trialled that idea, plus another, over 15 years ago, on how cellphones could connect two strangers, albeit not through an app.
We wrote: âEngeseth says that Ikeaâs expertise lends itself easily to the world of apparel âŚ
âHe believes that fashion is in a repetitive cycle, stuck in history and needing renewal.
âIkea could offer both complete apparel items and composite parts that customers could assemble themselves, says Mr Engeseth. The parts could be âtailoredâ at home in inventive ways without the need for complex sewing.â
Last year, Lucire publisher Jack Yan added, âThis taps in to its existing fan base, and just as importantly, Ikea can make full use of its channels, outmanĹuvring many existing fashion labels. Ikea has an international retail base and it has distribution down to a fine art.â
When we asked him about the Ikea show in Milano yesterday, he had his reservations about some of the designs, but stated, âItâs good that Ikea takes its first step into fashion, and rewarding to see them developing the concept more now.â
He was also buoyed by seeing that, after the show, Ikeaâs official Twitter account went back to his blog post late last year about Ikea fashion, and âfavouritedâ a Tweet about it. Engeseth even preempted the hashtag used back in 2014.
Thereâs no sign that Ikea fashion will be in a composite format, ready for its customers to assemble, but Engeseth appears to have been right that the brand would extend itself into the new segment.
Top The Kagi Hope Acorn charm. Above The new NZ$79 charm along with the Kagi Steel Me bracelet, which retails for NZ$139.
Kagi has added a new charm to its Hope Acorn jewellery collection, a collaboration with the Child Cancer Foundation (CCF), with NZ$5 from each purchase going to the charity to support families and children going through cancer treatment.
The Hope Acorn charm, priced at NZ$79, will be available from November. It joins the Hope Acorn earring charms (NZ$79 per pair) and Hope Acorn pendant (NZ$135).
Designer Kat Gee noted, ‘I had a lot of Mums contact me directly saying they loved the large Hope acorn and wanted smaller charm to give to their children as a symbol of love and protection. It was a such a sweet concept that I felt we just had to do it! I also had all of my Kagi girls wanting them for themselves too there was no choice, really.’
âOur team is supporting more than 500 families at any one time across the country, aiming to reduce the impact of cancer by offering services that ensure children and their families are supported, informed and well cared for at every stage of their journey,’ said CCF commercial manager, Jo Rodgers. ‘We receive no direct government funding, so [we] rely on the generosity of New Zealanders and on innovative businesses like Kagi to provide practical and meaningful support to families when they need it.’
The collection has already raised over NZ$20,000 for the CCF and Kids with Cancer Australia charities, according to Kagi. They can be bought online at www.kagi.net; retailers are also listed at the website.
Not one to shy away from obscure designs, Vera Wang experiments with lingerie paired with heavy overcoats to open her collection this year. Bandeau-style bras are a recurring feature, teamed with various high-waist garments. Wang uses mostly heavy black for each garment; however, in various outfits a burst of glitter features, breaking up the heaviness of the collection. As the show develops blush coral contrasts starkly with the previous pieces; these pieces are a welcome adjustment. Wang’s inspiration is drawn from the sensual Belle du Jour, which can be seen in the independent, strongly feminine styles of the garments
The Diesel Black Gold collection was essentially inspired by the heavy rockâbiker style with black-and-white cottons vamped up with various radical features. Heavy leathers, silver studs, cut-outs and crisp square cuts were refashioned time and time again throughout the show. Diesel used these iconic rocker staples and made them their ownâan impressive feat considering the popularity these styles have had over the last few years.
With the upcoming first anniversary of the passing of the label’s cherished namesake, the designers of Oscar de la Renta had a lot to prove with their first New York Fashion Week show without the founder’s expert oversight. However, they went over and above with the springâsummer 2016 collection. Drawing inspiration from classical Sicilian elegance, the floral and feminine collection radiates with an air of class and creative originality, a trait made the company’s own by de la Renta.
Also showing on day six were Badgley Mischka, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Carmen Marc Valvo, and the Art Institutes, among others.âAlex Barrow
Jeremy Scott’s collection was brilliantly designed to transport the audience to the fast-lane fashion lifestyles of â60s mods. With puffy curled hair dos, bright radical colours and prints, popping make-up, shapeless mini-dresses, and Latex- and sequin-saturated dresses, Scott no doubt achieved the essence of the blast from the past. The collection is a colourful combination of pop art and the fun and flirty free love of the âsixties, demonstrating the quirky creativity Jeremy Scott’s designs have become notorious for.
Phillip Lim’s show grabbed attention with the stage layout. With a large square catwalk interrupted by mountainous dirt pyramids seemingly placed arbitrarily, Lim is clearly looking to portray a wholly ĂŚsthetic appeal. With both soft and deep khakis resonating throughout the 3Âˇ1 Phillip Lim springâsummer 2016 collection’s designs, the adventurous tone is further accentuated by his safari-style wide trousers and shorts, heavy coats and fluid leather jackets, paired with long head ribbons. The set and the designs are perfectly compatible, setting the scene for Lim’s inspiration.
Tommy Hilfiger’s collection, based on beachy Carribean themes, became an all-encompassing event with the set design depicting a fiery sunset and a water expanse inset in the catwalk. This collection presented mostly colourful swimwear and garments boasting bold tropical prints. Long bohemian maxi dresses were common, as well as colourful stripes typical of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear.
Also on the day five calendar were Lela Rose, Taoray Wang, Reem Acra, Libertine and Vivienne Tam. Lola Cristall will have her detailed wrap-up from New York Fashion Week later.âAlex Barrow
Georgine’s collection takes mainstream styles of clothing and shakes them up with an abstract element: blue wash denim suits, complete silk office wear, metallic arm warmers, and optical illusion dresses paired with mismatching garments. Forest green is a focal point of the collection as well as lavender hues, sunshine yellow and cherry red. The obscure themes are accented by heavy bright eye shadows that complement the quirky collection.
Diane von FĂźrstenberg has always been a creator of clothing with bold prints, a passion which doesn’t falter with this season’s NYFW collection, ‘The idea is always to celebrate women to be individual so that they dare to be themselves; be a woman they want to be.’ With this inspiration, her collection dabbles in textured gold fabrics, embroidered tulle, Grecian-style gowns and garments saturated in popping colours and prints. This collection plays with the elements of fashion and appeals to the adventurous ĂŚsthetic of the urban woman.
Derek Lam drew inspiration from â70s-esque fashion, evident in his elaborate, loose flared trousers, wide bell sleeves, crisp shirts and knitted vests, as well as the typical suede and tassels. Lam’s traditional focus on the feminine ideal is evident in this collection; however, he has clearly emphasized a particular moody theme through his dark choice of colour palette.
Others showing on day four with videos below included Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, and Prabal Gurung.âAlex Barrow
Son Jung Wan’s springâsummer 2016 collection was made up of severely structured pieces with a low-key colour palette. Metallic features stood out in the forms of colour-contrasting footwear, metallic zippers or merely singular stripe features on the garments. As the show developed, the initial crisp white of the clothing developed in colour, using tones of bubble-gum pink, dusky rose and grape, while still maintaining the stark structures of the garments.
With a nautical theme in this season’s NYFW collection, Lacoste used red white and blue in their sporty style designs. With a resonating urban theme evident in their oversized shirts, sailor shorts and visa caps, the target audience indicated a youthful sailor style.
Celebrating the feminine figure, the HervĂŠ LĂŠger collection is filled with short, form-fitting dresses which are defined with extensive pattern work over a typically white palette. Patterns include floral grids, metallic work and beading, all used to flatter the female figure.
Other notable designers which presented their collections on Day 3 were Noon by Noor, Rebecca Minkoff, Mara Hoffman, Francesca Liberatore, Monique Lhuillier, Misha Nonoo, Banana Republic and Alexander Wang, as well as several others.âAlex Barrow
Givenchy captures the trademark flair that has been evident through previous years of work. At this year’s springâsummer 2016 fashion show, inspiration for the collection was drawn from the delicate mystery of nightwear. Black and white silks with laced camisole-like features were teamed with heavy thick robes to capture the essence of the evening. As the collection developed, the styles took a radical turn towards elaborate, exotic pieces teamed with equally exaggerated headdresses, typical of Givenchy models. In menswear, heavy suits were contrasted with unusual cropped cutout shirts. Throughout the show the black and white them resonated.
Jason Wu’s collection seems to lack any direct channel of inspiration with different fabrics and styles in his springâsummer 2016 collection. With a noticeable colour palette of red and teal, Wu’s collection experiments with chiffon, lace, tulle, knits, silks and leathers to create a wide appealing ĂŚsthetic collection. With the occasional collaboration of contrasting fabrics in one outfit, Wu’s abilities are no doubt in good form for this year’s fashion week.
Betsey Johnson’s collection is in a complete league of its own, with its kooky carnival meets punks meets rainbow radical appeal. Elaborate tulle dresses with colour-popping accessories and contrasting patterns make up the collection. Johnson’s vision is clearly one of playing with fashion and testing the boundaries.
Other designers which showed their collections on Day 2 included Zimmerman, Wes Gordon, Kate Spade, Custo Barcelona, Yigal AzrouĂŤl, Pamella Roland, Nicole Miller, CG, Zang Toi, Idan Cohen, Karigam, and Kye.âAlex Barrow
BCBG Max Azria presented their collection on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week with a hippy flair of contrasting textures, colours, and prints. With a trending theme of bucket hats and chunky leg warmers, teamed with clashing layers of various clothes, the disheveled look was surprisingly effective.
Erin Fetherston’s collection encompassed the epitome of romance and femininity. With floaty fabrics and pastel hues, as well as downplayed bohemian patterns, the collection played with the romance of â40s fashion and the flower power of the â60s and â70s. The overarching tone however suggested innocence, playfulness and romance.
Tadashi Shoji’s designs, too, place heavy emphasis on the beauty of floaty fabric. This collection focuses on the fabrics rather than necessarily on the shape of those wearing them. Embroidered silks, textured fabrics and long floral feature gowns are dominant in the collection. Romantic long pastel pieces tend to be a focus point, made ever more beautiful by the minimal styled hair and natural make-up of the models.
Other designers which presented their collections on Day 1 were Tome, Desigual, Nicholas K, Ohne Titel and Kids Rock.âAlex Barrow
Giorgia Surina at the Hotel Villa Laguna during the 72nd Venice Film Festival, September 6, 2015. Photographed by Annalisa Flori/Getty Images.
At the 72nd Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica in Venezia, on September 4, 2015, Yvonne SciĂ˛ wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. Photographed by Sebastiano Pessina.
Suki Waterhouse arrives at the Amazon Fashion Photography Studio launch party, in London, July 23, 2015. Photographed by David M. Benett/Getty Images.
Fan Bingbing wears Ralph & Russo springâsummer 2015 couture to the Chopard Trophy Party at the 2015 Festival de Cannes, on May 16, 2015. The white silk crĂ¨pe off-the-shoulder fishtail gown features cascading silk organza and gazar ruffles.
Tilda Swinton at Chanel cruise 2015â16 in Seoul, photographed by Aldo Castoldi. Full story at http://lucire.com/insider/20150505/chanel-shows-cruise-2015-16-in-seoul-with-gisele-bundchen-kristen-stewart-razane-jammal-shin-hye-park-alma-jodorowsky/
Taylor Swift poses in the press room during the 2015 Billboard Music Awards at MGM Grand Garden Arena on May 17, 2015 in Las Vegas, Nevada. Photographed by Jason Merritt.
Dita von Teese visits the Avakian suite during the 68th Cannes Film Festival at the Carlton Hotel on May 23, 2015 in Cannes, France.
Niamh Adkins attends the New York premiĂ¨re of Mission: Impossible: Rogue Nation, from Paramount Pictures and Skydance Productions, at the AMC Lincoln Square IMAX theatre in New York, NY on July 27, 2015. Photographed by Aurora Rose.
Izabel Goulart in Georges Hobeika, at the premiĂ¨re of Ice and the Sky, on May 24, 2015. Jewellery by de Grisogono.
Taeyang at Chanel cruise 2015â16 in Seoul, photographed by Aldo Castoldi. Full story at http://lucire.com/insider/20150505/chanel-shows-cruise-2015-16-in-seoul-with-gisele-bundchen-kristen-stewart-razane-jammal-shin-hye-park-alma-jodorowsky/
Sara Sampaio attends the New York premiĂ¨re of Mission: Impossible: Rogue Nation, from Paramount Pictures and Skydance Productions, at the AMC Lincoln Square IMAX theatre in New York, NY on July 27, 2015. Photographed by Aurora Rose.