Lucire: News


October 7, 2015

It’s fine and dandy: Rembrandt shows a classy, complete spring–summer 2015–16 menswear collection

Alex Barrow/14.07

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Rembrandt’s spring–summer 2015–16 collection boasts an array of quirky prints, fine Italian shoes, and an æsthetically pleasing mash-up of modern and traditional in the tailoring of their suits. Since their opening in Wellington in 1946, Rembrandt has cemented its fine tailoring reputation throughout Australia and New Zealand, having opened ten main stores between the two countries, as well as a number of outlet stores. A fourth Auckland store at 41 Shortland Street will open in December.
   This year’s collection puts a modern twist on the British dandy of the nineteenth century with an array of less traditional coloured suit jackets, double-buckled leather shoes (we rate the double monk, made in Italy for Rembrandt), silk ruffle lapel pins, and eccentric printed shirts, ties and pocket squares.
   The company has identified marsala as the colour of the year, with it appearing through its accessories’ range as well as its Bryan dinner jacket.
   Rembrandt’s Wayward Heir line, targeting a younger wearer, has straight lines and narrow fits for the season.
   Rembrandt’s forte lies in dressing for black tie events, making the wearer of their suits stand out. With the option to purchase off the rack, order a made-to-measure suit, or hire one for an event, Rembrandt has its customers’ suit needs covered to a high standard. Furthermore, the menswear company also offers high-quality clothing for everyday casual wear.
   With the motto ‘bespoke is in our blood’, the history of Rembrandt draws back to the world wars of the early twentieth century where immigrants from Holland came to New Zealand, specializing in tailoring. With an opportunity on the horizon the company was started and have spent almost seventy years building tailoring knowledge and expertise to create the reputation they have today of fine craftsmanship.
   With the reputable work and class of Rembrandt, the company has partnered up with the Wellington Phoenix, South Sydney Rabbitohs and the New Zealand All Whites in officially tailoring the teams. Rembrandt gives back to the fashion community by proudly co-sponsoring the Fashion and Textile award of the ECC Student Craft–Design Award for 2015.—Alex Barrow

October 1, 2015

Ikea extends itself into fashion: you read it here first last year

Lucire staff/23.16

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September 29’s Ikea Fashion Show at Moda di Milano (hashtagged both #IKEAfashion and #IKEAtemporary) showcased work from two designers who collaborated with the Swedish-founded furniture conglomerate.
   â€˜With a number of new collections that have been developed in collaboration with fashion designers, Ikea is stepping into new territory—one from which we can learn a lot,’ according to the company.
   Giltig by Katie Eary and Svärtan by Martin BergstrĂśm will see their collections retailed in 2016, but they received a boost in profile thanks to their appearance at one of the top fashion weeks in the world.
   For us, the first thing that came to mind when seeing Ikea fashion was Stefan Engeseth’s (below right) prediction, published in Lucire first last year, and later in, the Daily Mail, The Guardian and Flare, plus a number of newspapers and news websites: that fashion should be Ikea’s next industry.
   At the time, Ikea had no such plans officially, but it isn’t surprising to see another one of Engeseth’s predictions come true. He came up with the idea of Coca-Cola being served through taps at home before Coke itself actually trialled that idea, plus another, over 15 years ago, on how cellphones could connect two strangers, albeit not through an app.
   We wrote: ‘Engeseth says that Ikea’s expertise lends itself easily to the world of apparel …
   â€˜He believes that fashion is in a repetitive cycle, stuck in history and needing renewal.
   â€˜Ikea could offer both complete apparel items and composite parts that customers could assemble themselves, says Mr Engeseth. The parts could be “tailored” at home in inventive ways without the need for complex sewing.’
   Last year, Lucire publisher Jack Yan added, ‘This taps in to its existing fan base, and just as importantly, Ikea can make full use of its channels, outmanœuvring many existing fashion labels. Ikea has an international retail base and it has distribution down to a fine art.’
   When we asked him about the Ikea show in Milano yesterday, he had his reservations about some of the designs, but stated, ‘It’s good that Ikea takes its first step into fashion, and rewarding to see them developing the concept more now.’
   He was also buoyed by seeing that, after the show, Ikea’s official Twitter account went back to his blog post late last year about Ikea fashion, and “favourited” a Tweet about it. Engeseth even preempted the hashtag used back in 2014.
   There’s no sign that Ikea fashion will be in a composite format, ready for its customers to assemble, but Engeseth appears to have been right that the brand would extend itself into the new segment.

September 29, 2015

Huawei, Vogue China and Fornasetti collaborate on custom smart watch, released at Milan Fashion Week

Alex Barrow/23.17

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Vittorio Zunino Celotto

A collaboration between big names Huawei, Vogue China and Fornasetti sparked the creation of the Fornasetti smart watch, the unveiling of which was done at Vogue China’s 10-year anniversary celebrations. Celebrated at the closure of Milan Fashion Week, the introduction of the special edition watch has allowed for it to be seen in the limelight of the fashion world.
   Huawei, a global innovation company, works towards bettering and expanding on telecom networks. With a focus on consumer product, technical innovation and research and development, the company has expanded through Asia, Europe, the US and Russia. Huawei’s crowd-sourcing specialists have opened up a platform for outside artists and designers to contribute designs for appropriate accessories to complement the watch such as customized skins, or potential ideas for future technologies such as smart phones or smart watches.
   The watch itself is a product of Huawei Business Group, but the design was customized by Fornasetti, the celebrated interior design and fashion label. The watch has all the traditional makings of a high-quality, sophisticated watch such as the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal class and stainless steel frame, as well as the traditional 42 mm diameter of the watch face itself. What makes this accessory stand out is its technical capabilities, inclusive of playing music downloads offline, Bluetooth connections and a heart rate and motion sensor. These make it the ideal companion for monitored physical activity without the bulk of other smart technologies.
   Designer Barnaba Fornasetti said his design had a multi-dimensional inspiration to it which contributed to the final product. ‘The Fornasetti brand is built upon the revival and reinvention of its classic designs and objects, giving them a new purpose and always keeping its artisan approach. The Lina face is a part of my father’s legacy and to reinforce its timeless design, I paradoxically decided to apply it on a cutting edge product that keeps time.’ The image on the watch face is a vintage-style depiction of a woman’s face, namely inspired by that of Lina Cavalieri, an Italian opera singer. This image is an established symbol of Fornasetti and has been used in a similar fashion in the label’s past designs.
   The collaboration between the three large names has allowed space for future business endeavours, opening up each other’s company networks. Glory Zhang of Huawei said, ‘This collaboration with Fornasetti is the start of an exciting journey for Huawei, delivering connections between innovative technology and art, design and culture. This is the first of many exciting cultural collaborations as we move to become an innovator within the arts’.
   Notable attendees of the event included models Karlie Kloss and Sean O’Pry, AC Milan footballer Riccardo Montolivo and model Cristina de Pin, fashion photographer Mario Testino, Giorgio Armani, Vogue China editor-in-chief Angelica Cheung. Representing Huawei was Glory Zhang, its chief marketing officer. All attendees of the event were gifted with the smart watches and modelled them for the evening.—Alex Barrow

Vittorio Zunino Celotto

September 28, 2015

Kagi adds charm to its Hope Acorn jewellery collection, supporting Child Cancer Foundation

Lucire staff/12.46

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Top The Kagi Hope Acorn charm. Above The new NZ$79 charm along with the Kagi Steel Me bracelet, which retails for NZ$139.

Kagi has added a new charm to its Hope Acorn jewellery collection, a collaboration with the Child Cancer Foundation (CCF), with NZ$5 from each purchase going to the charity to support families and children going through cancer treatment.
   The Hope Acorn charm, priced at NZ$79, will be available from November. It joins the Hope Acorn earring charms (NZ$79 per pair) and Hope Acorn pendant (NZ$135).
   Designer Kat Gee noted, ‘I had a lot of Mums contact me directly saying they loved the large Hope acorn and wanted smaller charm to give to their children as a symbol of love and protection. It was a such a sweet concept that I felt we just had to do it! I also had all of my Kagi girls wanting them for themselves too there was no choice, really.’
   â€˜Our team is supporting more than 500 families at any one time across the country, aiming to reduce the impact of cancer by offering services that ensure children and their families are supported, informed and well cared for at every stage of their journey,’ said CCF commercial manager, Jo Rodgers. ‘We receive no direct government funding, so [we] rely on the generosity of New Zealanders and on innovative businesses like Kagi to provide practical and meaningful support to families when they need it.’
   The collection has already raised over NZ$20,000 for the CCF and Kids with Cancer Australia charities, according to Kagi. They can be bought online at; retailers are also listed at the website.

September 15, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 6 videos: Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Diesel Black Gold

Alex Barrow/22.22

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Not one to shy away from obscure designs, Vera Wang experiments with lingerie paired with heavy overcoats to open her collection this year. Bandeau-style bras are a recurring feature, teamed with various high-waist garments. Wang uses mostly heavy black for each garment; however, in various outfits a burst of glitter features, breaking up the heaviness of the collection. As the show develops blush coral contrasts starkly with the previous pieces; these pieces are a welcome adjustment. Wang’s inspiration is drawn from the sensual Belle du Jour, which can be seen in the independent, strongly feminine styles of the garments
   The Diesel Black Gold collection was essentially inspired by the heavy rock–biker style with black-and-white cottons vamped up with various radical features. Heavy leathers, silver studs, cut-outs and crisp square cuts were refashioned time and time again throughout the show. Diesel used these iconic rocker staples and made them their own—an impressive feat considering the popularity these styles have had over the last few years.
   With the upcoming first anniversary of the passing of the label’s cherished namesake, the designers of Oscar de la Renta had a lot to prove with their first New York Fashion Week show without the founder’s expert oversight. However, they went over and above with the spring–summer 2016 collection. Drawing inspiration from classical Sicilian elegance, the floral and feminine collection radiates with an air of class and creative originality, a trait made the company’s own by de la Renta.
   Also showing on day six were Badgley Mischka, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Carmen Marc Valvo, and the Art Institutes, among others.—Alex Barrow

Vera Wang

Diesel Black Gold

Oscar de la Renta

Badgley Mischka

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Carmen Marc Valvo

The Art Institutes

September 14, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 5 videos: Tommy Hilfiger, Jeremy Scott, 3·1 Phillip Lim

Alex Barrow/23.15

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Jeremy Scott’s collection was brilliantly designed to transport the audience to the fast-lane fashion lifestyles of ’60s mods. With puffy curled hair dos, bright radical colours and prints, popping make-up, shapeless mini-dresses, and Latex- and sequin-saturated dresses, Scott no doubt achieved the essence of the blast from the past. The collection is a colourful combination of pop art and the fun and flirty free love of the ’sixties, demonstrating the quirky creativity Jeremy Scott’s designs have become notorious for.
   Phillip Lim’s show grabbed attention with the stage layout. With a large square catwalk interrupted by mountainous dirt pyramids seemingly placed arbitrarily, Lim is clearly looking to portray a wholly ĂŚsthetic appeal. With both soft and deep khakis resonating throughout the 3¡1 Phillip Lim spring–summer 2016 collection’s designs, the adventurous tone is further accentuated by his safari-style wide trousers and shorts, heavy coats and fluid leather jackets, paired with long head ribbons. The set and the designs are perfectly compatible, setting the scene for Lim’s inspiration.
   Tommy Hilfiger’s collection, based on beachy Carribean themes, became an all-encompassing event with the set design depicting a fiery sunset and a water expanse inset in the catwalk. This collection presented mostly colourful swimwear and garments boasting bold tropical prints. Long bohemian maxi dresses were common, as well as colourful stripes typical of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear.
   Also on the day five calendar were Lela Rose, Taoray Wang, Reem Acra, Libertine and Vivienne Tam. Lola Cristall will have her detailed wrap-up from New York Fashion Week later.—Alex Barrow

Jeremy Scott

3¡1 Phillip Lim

Tommy Hilfiger

Lela Rose

Taoray Wang

Reem Acra


Vivienne Tam

September 13, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 4 videos: Derek Lam, Diane von Fürstenberg, Georgine

Alex Barrow/22.59

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Georgine’s collection takes mainstream styles of clothing and shakes them up with an abstract element: blue wash denim suits, complete silk office wear, metallic arm warmers, and optical illusion dresses paired with mismatching garments. Forest green is a focal point of the collection as well as lavender hues, sunshine yellow and cherry red. The obscure themes are accented by heavy bright eye shadows that complement the quirky collection.
   Diane von FĂźrstenberg has always been a creator of clothing with bold prints, a passion which doesn’t falter with this season’s NYFW collection, ‘The idea is always to celebrate women to be individual so that they dare to be themselves; be a woman they want to be.’ With this inspiration, her collection dabbles in textured gold fabrics, embroidered tulle, Grecian-style gowns and garments saturated in popping colours and prints. This collection plays with the elements of fashion and appeals to the adventurous ĂŚsthetic of the urban woman.
   Derek Lam drew inspiration from ’70s-esque fashion, evident in his elaborate, loose flared trousers, wide bell sleeves, crisp shirts and knitted vests, as well as the typical suede and tassels. Lam’s traditional focus on the feminine ideal is evident in this collection; however, he has clearly emphasized a particular moody theme through his dark choice of colour palette.
   Others showing on day four with videos below included Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, and Prabal Gurung.—Alex Barrow


Diane von FĂźrstenberg

Derek Lam

Fashion Shenzhen

Public School

Lie Sangbong

Jenny Packham

Ground Zero

Prabal Gurung

September 12, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 3 videos: Son Jung Wan, Hervé Léger, Rebecca Minkoff, Monique Lhuillier

Alex Barrow/23.50

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Son Jung Wan’s spring–summer 2016 collection was made up of severely structured pieces with a low-key colour palette. Metallic features stood out in the forms of colour-contrasting footwear, metallic zippers or merely singular stripe features on the garments. As the show developed, the initial crisp white of the clothing developed in colour, using tones of bubble-gum pink, dusky rose and grape, while still maintaining the stark structures of the garments.
   With a nautical theme in this season’s NYFW collection, Lacoste used red white and blue in their sporty style designs. With a resonating urban theme evident in their oversized shirts, sailor shorts and visa caps, the target audience indicated a youthful sailor style.
   Celebrating the feminine figure, the HervĂŠ LĂŠger collection is filled with short, form-fitting dresses which are defined with extensive pattern work over a typically white palette. Patterns include floral grids, metallic work and beading, all used to flatter the female figure.
   Other notable designers which presented their collections on Day 3 were Noon by Noor, Rebecca Minkoff, Mara Hoffman, Francesca Liberatore, Monique Lhuillier, Misha Nonoo, Banana Republic and Alexander Wang, as well as several others.—Alex Barrow

Son Jung Wan


HervĂŠ LĂŠger

Noon by Noor

Rebecca Minkoff

Mara Hoffman

Francesca Liberatore

Monique Lhuillier

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