Rembrandtâs springâsummer 2015â16 collection boasts an array of quirky prints, fine Italian shoes, and an ĂŚsthetically pleasing mash-up of modern and traditional in the tailoring of their suits. Since their opening in Wellington in 1946, Rembrandt has cemented its fine tailoring reputation throughout Australia and New Zealand, having opened ten main stores between the two countries, as well as a number of outlet stores. A fourth Auckland store at 41 Shortland Street will open in December.
This year’s collection puts a modern twist on the British dandy of the nineteenth century with an array of less traditional coloured suit jackets, double-buckled leather shoes (we rate the double monk, made in Italy for Rembrandt), silk ruffle lapel pins, and eccentric printed shirts, ties and pocket squares.
The company has identified marsala as the colour of the year, with it appearing through its accessories’ range as well as its Bryan dinner jacket.
Rembrandt’s Wayward Heir line, targeting a younger wearer, has straight lines and narrow fits for the season.
Rembrandtâs forte lies in dressing for black tie events, making the wearer of their suits stand out. With the option to purchase off the rack, order a made-to-measure suit, or hire one for an event, Rembrandt has its customersâ suit needs covered to a high standard. Furthermore, the menswear company also offers high-quality clothing for everyday casual wear.
With the motto âbespoke is in our bloodâ, the history of Rembrandt draws back to the world wars of the early twentieth century where immigrants from Holland came to New Zealand, specializing in tailoring. With an opportunity on the horizon the company was started and have spent almost seventy years building tailoring knowledge and expertise to create the reputation they have today of fine craftsmanship.
With the reputable work and class of Rembrandt, the company has partnered up with the Wellington Phoenix, South Sydney Rabbitohs and the New Zealand All Whites in officially tailoring the teams. Rembrandt gives back to the fashion community by proudly co-sponsoring the Fashion and Textile award of the ECC Student CraftâDesign Award for 2015.âAlex Barrow
September 29âs Ikea Fashion Show at Moda di Milano (hashtagged both #IKEAfashion and #IKEAtemporary) showcased work from two designers who collaborated with the Swedish-founded furniture conglomerate.
âWith a number of new collections that have been developed in collaboration with fashion designers, Ikea is stepping into new territoryâone from which we can learn a lot,â according to the company.
Giltig by Katie Eary and SvĂ¤rtan by Martin BergstrĂśm will see their collections retailed in 2016, but they received a boost in profile thanks to their appearance at one of the top fashion weeks in the world.
For us, the first thing that came to mind when seeing Ikea fashion was Stefan Engesethâs (below right) prediction, published in Lucire first last year, and later in Style.com, the Daily Mail, The Guardian and Flare, plus a number of newspapers and news websites: that fashion should be Ikeaâs next industry.
At the time, Ikea had no such plans officially, but it isnât surprising to see another one of Engesethâs predictions come true. He came up with the idea of Coca-Cola being served through taps at home before Coke itself actually trialled that idea, plus another, over 15 years ago, on how cellphones could connect two strangers, albeit not through an app.
We wrote: âEngeseth says that Ikeaâs expertise lends itself easily to the world of apparel âŚ
âHe believes that fashion is in a repetitive cycle, stuck in history and needing renewal.
âIkea could offer both complete apparel items and composite parts that customers could assemble themselves, says Mr Engeseth. The parts could be âtailoredâ at home in inventive ways without the need for complex sewing.â
Last year, Lucire publisher Jack Yan added, âThis taps in to its existing fan base, and just as importantly, Ikea can make full use of its channels, outmanĹuvring many existing fashion labels. Ikea has an international retail base and it has distribution down to a fine art.â
When we asked him about the Ikea show in Milano yesterday, he had his reservations about some of the designs, but stated, âItâs good that Ikea takes its first step into fashion, and rewarding to see them developing the concept more now.â
He was also buoyed by seeing that, after the show, Ikeaâs official Twitter account went back to his blog post late last year about Ikea fashion, and âfavouritedâ a Tweet about it. Engeseth even preempted the hashtag used back in 2014.
Thereâs no sign that Ikea fashion will be in a composite format, ready for its customers to assemble, but Engeseth appears to have been right that the brand would extend itself into the new segment.
A collaboration between big names Huawei, Vogue China and Fornasetti sparked the creation of the Fornasetti smart watch, the unveiling of which was done at Vogue Chinaâs 10-year anniversary celebrations. Celebrated at the closure of Milan Fashion Week, the introduction of the special edition watch has allowed for it to be seen in the limelight of the fashion world.
Huawei, a global innovation company, works towards bettering and expanding on telecom networks. With a focus on consumer product, technical innovation and research and development, the company has expanded through Asia, Europe, the US and Russia. Huaweiâs crowd-sourcing specialists have opened up a platform for outside artists and designers to contribute designs for appropriate accessories to complement the watch such as customized skins, or potential ideas for future technologies such as smart phones or smart watches.
The watch itself is a product of Huawei Business Group, but the design was customized by Fornasetti, the celebrated interior design and fashion label. The watch has all the traditional makings of a high-quality, sophisticated watch such as the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal class and stainless steel frame, as well as the traditional 42 mm diameter of the watch face itself. What makes this accessory stand out is its technical capabilities, inclusive of playing music downloads offline, Bluetooth connections and a heart rate and motion sensor. These make it the ideal companion for monitored physical activity without the bulk of other smart technologies.
Designer Barnaba Fornasetti said his design had a multi-dimensional inspiration to it which contributed to the final product. âThe Fornasetti brand is built upon the revival and reinvention of its classic designs and objects, giving them a new purpose and always keeping its artisan approach. The Lina face is a part of my fatherâs legacy and to reinforce its timeless design, I paradoxically decided to apply it on a cutting edge product that keeps time.’ The image on the watch face is a vintage-style depiction of a womanâs face, namely inspired by that of Lina Cavalieri, an Italian opera singer. This image is an established symbol of Fornasetti and has been used in a similar fashion in the labelâs past designs.
The collaboration between the three large names has allowed space for future business endeavours, opening up each otherâs company networks. Glory Zhang of Huawei said, âThis collaboration with Fornasetti is the start of an exciting journey for Huawei, delivering connections between innovative technology and art, design and culture. This is the first of many exciting cultural collaborations as we move to become an innovator within the artsâ.
Notable attendees of the event included models Karlie Kloss and Sean O’Pry, AC Milan footballer Riccardo Montolivo and model Cristina de Pin, fashion photographer Mario Testino, Giorgio Armani, Vogue China editor-in-chief Angelica Cheung. Representing Huawei was Glory Zhang, its chief marketing officer. All attendees of the event were gifted with the smart watches and modelled them for the evening.âAlex Barrow
Top The Kagi Hope Acorn charm. Above The new NZ$79 charm along with the Kagi Steel Me bracelet, which retails for NZ$139.
Kagi has added a new charm to its Hope Acorn jewellery collection, a collaboration with the Child Cancer Foundation (CCF), with NZ$5 from each purchase going to the charity to support families and children going through cancer treatment.
The Hope Acorn charm, priced at NZ$79, will be available from November. It joins the Hope Acorn earring charms (NZ$79 per pair) and Hope Acorn pendant (NZ$135).
Designer Kat Gee noted, ‘I had a lot of Mums contact me directly saying they loved the large Hope acorn and wanted smaller charm to give to their children as a symbol of love and protection. It was a such a sweet concept that I felt we just had to do it! I also had all of my Kagi girls wanting them for themselves too there was no choice, really.’
âOur team is supporting more than 500 families at any one time across the country, aiming to reduce the impact of cancer by offering services that ensure children and their families are supported, informed and well cared for at every stage of their journey,’ said CCF commercial manager, Jo Rodgers. ‘We receive no direct government funding, so [we] rely on the generosity of New Zealanders and on innovative businesses like Kagi to provide practical and meaningful support to families when they need it.’
The collection has already raised over NZ$20,000 for the CCF and Kids with Cancer Australia charities, according to Kagi. They can be bought online at www.kagi.net; retailers are also listed at the website.
Not one to shy away from obscure designs, Vera Wang experiments with lingerie paired with heavy overcoats to open her collection this year. Bandeau-style bras are a recurring feature, teamed with various high-waist garments. Wang uses mostly heavy black for each garment; however, in various outfits a burst of glitter features, breaking up the heaviness of the collection. As the show develops blush coral contrasts starkly with the previous pieces; these pieces are a welcome adjustment. Wang’s inspiration is drawn from the sensual Belle du Jour, which can be seen in the independent, strongly feminine styles of the garments
The Diesel Black Gold collection was essentially inspired by the heavy rockâbiker style with black-and-white cottons vamped up with various radical features. Heavy leathers, silver studs, cut-outs and crisp square cuts were refashioned time and time again throughout the show. Diesel used these iconic rocker staples and made them their ownâan impressive feat considering the popularity these styles have had over the last few years.
With the upcoming first anniversary of the passing of the label’s cherished namesake, the designers of Oscar de la Renta had a lot to prove with their first New York Fashion Week show without the founder’s expert oversight. However, they went over and above with the springâsummer 2016 collection. Drawing inspiration from classical Sicilian elegance, the floral and feminine collection radiates with an air of class and creative originality, a trait made the company’s own by de la Renta.
Also showing on day six were Badgley Mischka, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Carmen Marc Valvo, and the Art Institutes, among others.âAlex Barrow
Jeremy Scott’s collection was brilliantly designed to transport the audience to the fast-lane fashion lifestyles of â60s mods. With puffy curled hair dos, bright radical colours and prints, popping make-up, shapeless mini-dresses, and Latex- and sequin-saturated dresses, Scott no doubt achieved the essence of the blast from the past. The collection is a colourful combination of pop art and the fun and flirty free love of the âsixties, demonstrating the quirky creativity Jeremy Scott’s designs have become notorious for.
Phillip Lim’s show grabbed attention with the stage layout. With a large square catwalk interrupted by mountainous dirt pyramids seemingly placed arbitrarily, Lim is clearly looking to portray a wholly ĂŚsthetic appeal. With both soft and deep khakis resonating throughout the 3Âˇ1 Phillip Lim springâsummer 2016 collection’s designs, the adventurous tone is further accentuated by his safari-style wide trousers and shorts, heavy coats and fluid leather jackets, paired with long head ribbons. The set and the designs are perfectly compatible, setting the scene for Lim’s inspiration.
Tommy Hilfiger’s collection, based on beachy Carribean themes, became an all-encompassing event with the set design depicting a fiery sunset and a water expanse inset in the catwalk. This collection presented mostly colourful swimwear and garments boasting bold tropical prints. Long bohemian maxi dresses were common, as well as colourful stripes typical of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear.
Also on the day five calendar were Lela Rose, Taoray Wang, Reem Acra, Libertine and Vivienne Tam. Lola Cristall will have her detailed wrap-up from New York Fashion Week later.âAlex Barrow
Georgine’s collection takes mainstream styles of clothing and shakes them up with an abstract element: blue wash denim suits, complete silk office wear, metallic arm warmers, and optical illusion dresses paired with mismatching garments. Forest green is a focal point of the collection as well as lavender hues, sunshine yellow and cherry red. The obscure themes are accented by heavy bright eye shadows that complement the quirky collection.
Diane von FĂźrstenberg has always been a creator of clothing with bold prints, a passion which doesn’t falter with this season’s NYFW collection, ‘The idea is always to celebrate women to be individual so that they dare to be themselves; be a woman they want to be.’ With this inspiration, her collection dabbles in textured gold fabrics, embroidered tulle, Grecian-style gowns and garments saturated in popping colours and prints. This collection plays with the elements of fashion and appeals to the adventurous ĂŚsthetic of the urban woman.
Derek Lam drew inspiration from â70s-esque fashion, evident in his elaborate, loose flared trousers, wide bell sleeves, crisp shirts and knitted vests, as well as the typical suede and tassels. Lam’s traditional focus on the feminine ideal is evident in this collection; however, he has clearly emphasized a particular moody theme through his dark choice of colour palette.
Others showing on day four with videos below included Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, and Prabal Gurung.âAlex Barrow
Son Jung Wan’s springâsummer 2016 collection was made up of severely structured pieces with a low-key colour palette. Metallic features stood out in the forms of colour-contrasting footwear, metallic zippers or merely singular stripe features on the garments. As the show developed, the initial crisp white of the clothing developed in colour, using tones of bubble-gum pink, dusky rose and grape, while still maintaining the stark structures of the garments.
With a nautical theme in this season’s NYFW collection, Lacoste used red white and blue in their sporty style designs. With a resonating urban theme evident in their oversized shirts, sailor shorts and visa caps, the target audience indicated a youthful sailor style.
Celebrating the feminine figure, the HervĂŠ LĂŠger collection is filled with short, form-fitting dresses which are defined with extensive pattern work over a typically white palette. Patterns include floral grids, metallic work and beading, all used to flatter the female figure.
Other notable designers which presented their collections on Day 3 were Noon by Noor, Rebecca Minkoff, Mara Hoffman, Francesca Liberatore, Monique Lhuillier, Misha Nonoo, Banana Republic and Alexander Wang, as well as several others.âAlex Barrow
Izabel Goulart in Georges Hobeika, at the premiĂ¨re of Ice and the Sky, on May 24, 2015. Jewellery by de Grisogono.
At the 72nd Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica in Venezia, on September 4, 2015, Yvonne SciĂ˛ wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. Photographed by Sebastiano Pessina.
Taylor Swift poses in the press room during the 2015 Billboard Music Awards at MGM Grand Garden Arena on May 17, 2015 in Las Vegas, Nevada. Photographed by Jason Merritt.
Fan Bingbing wears Ralph & Russo springâsummer 2015 couture to the Chopard Trophy Party at the 2015 Festival de Cannes, on May 16, 2015. The white silk crĂ¨pe off-the-shoulder fishtail gown features cascading silk organza and gazar ruffles.
Tilda Swinton at Chanel cruise 2015â16 in Seoul, photographed by Aldo Castoldi. Full story at http://lucire.com/insider/20150505/chanel-shows-cruise-2015-16-in-seoul-with-gisele-bundchen-kristen-stewart-razane-jammal-shin-hye-park-alma-jodorowsky/
Dita von Teese visits the Avakian suite during the 68th Cannes Film Festival at the Carlton Hotel on May 23, 2015 in Cannes, France.
Niamh Adkins attends the New York premiĂ¨re of Mission: Impossible: Rogue Nation, from Paramount Pictures and Skydance Productions, at the AMC Lincoln Square IMAX theatre in New York, NY on July 27, 2015. Photographed by Aurora Rose.
Giorgia Surina at the Hotel Villa Laguna during the 72nd Venice Film Festival, September 6, 2015. Photographed by Annalisa Flori/Getty Images.
Suki Waterhouse arrives at the Amazon Fashion Photography Studio launch party, in London, July 23, 2015. Photographed by David M. Benett/Getty Images.
Taeyang at Chanel cruise 2015â16 in Seoul, photographed by Aldo Castoldi. Full story at http://lucire.com/insider/20150505/chanel-shows-cruise-2015-16-in-seoul-with-gisele-bundchen-kristen-stewart-razane-jammal-shin-hye-park-alma-jodorowsky/
Sara Sampaio attends the New York premiĂ¨re of Mission: Impossible: Rogue Nation, from Paramount Pictures and Skydance Productions, at the AMC Lincoln Square IMAX theatre in New York, NY on July 27, 2015. Photographed by Aurora Rose.